New to towing question
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2017
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"Chucking maybe normal" .... but I have since lost this action entirely in/on my towing. When I was upgrading from my 34'er to my current 45'er, I figured it would be more evident. Not the case at all. So is it the new truck?, the new Coach?, or a combination of each?. hmmmm. Just hashing this out there, as there doesn't 'have to be chucking' when pulling. Seriously I've now got zero chuck or tug now, but I've had it on prior setups and like the OP; it sucks, but I do think you get (a bit) used to it after awhile.
Maybe I'd recommend a morride? for your 5er tongue, but you'd have to nix that Anderson.
Maybe I'd recommend a morride? for your 5er tongue, but you'd have to nix that Anderson.
I had a broken latch on one of my 9000# bumper pull work trailers with all that weight forward. It never chunked. I even sped over railroad tracks at far too great of a speed and the trailer never came off the ball. There was literally nothing latching the trailer ball vertically.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 244
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I just talked to Andersen and they said the Morryde is OK to use but they say in their testing it is a better ride with the standard pin box. They said due to their design there is less parts moving so the air pin boxes are not neccessary. He recommended I check my torque. They also said that using a rubber is OK and they recommend using one to prevent scratches in the bed and it adds a little cushion in the movement. Guess we will have to see once I hook up again in a couple weeks.
I'm towing a Cougar 326SRX with the Anderson. I did put a rubber mat under the hitch. DEFINITELY re-torque the top bolt AFTER lowering the trailer onto the hitch. Tighten the other two bolts after this. I found the top bolt needs tightening after lowering trailer with the rubber mat under the hitch. I do this every time now. I notice very little, if any, "chucking". This is my first 5th wheel (had tow trailer toyhaulers in the past) and I am impressed with how smooth it is. ALSO, I had to cut down a socket to get it to fit onto the bolt with the torque wrench, you may not have to do this. Hope this helps.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2017
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I have the same truck set up as you with the stock "Rancho" shocks and airbags.
I'm towing a Cougar 326SRX with the Anderson. I did put a rubber mat under the hitch. DEFINITELY re-torque the top bolt AFTER lowering the trailer onto the hitch. Tighten the other two bolts after this. I found the top bolt needs tightening after lowering trailer with the rubber mat under the hitch. I do this every time now. I notice very little, if any, "chucking". This is my first 5th wheel (had tow trailer toyhaulers in the past) and I am impressed with how smooth it is. ALSO, I had to cut down a socket to get it to fit onto the bolt with the torque wrench, you may not have to do this. Hope this helps.
I'm towing a Cougar 326SRX with the Anderson. I did put a rubber mat under the hitch. DEFINITELY re-torque the top bolt AFTER lowering the trailer onto the hitch. Tighten the other two bolts after this. I found the top bolt needs tightening after lowering trailer with the rubber mat under the hitch. I do this every time now. I notice very little, if any, "chucking". This is my first 5th wheel (had tow trailer toyhaulers in the past) and I am impressed with how smooth it is. ALSO, I had to cut down a socket to get it to fit onto the bolt with the torque wrench, you may not have to do this. Hope this helps.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 244
Likes: 45
Yes. I torque the top bolt first to make sure hitch his held in place, back under trailer and lower trailer on to hitch all the way down, retorque top bolt then tighten the back two last. On a road that has bumps and imperfections, you may feel the trailer some.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 5
From: Burton NB Canada
Tongue weight. Your bigger camper isn't chucking because it's always pushing down forcefully on your truck. Most of the time this feeling is the trailer and hitch rattling about. If they aren't rattling because they're being crushed........ Also like WD hitches, all of that spring loading on the nose of the trailer removes play and slop (kinda).
I had a broken latch on one of my 9000# bumper pull work trailers with all that weight forward. It never chunked. I even sped over railroad tracks at far too great of a speed and the trailer never came off the ball. There was literally nothing latching the trailer ball vertically.
I had a broken latch on one of my 9000# bumper pull work trailers with all that weight forward. It never chunked. I even sped over railroad tracks at far too great of a speed and the trailer never came off the ball. There was literally nothing latching the trailer ball vertically.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 5
From: Burton NB Canada
I have the same truck set up as you with the stock "Rancho" shocks and airbags.
I'm towing a Cougar 326SRX with the Anderson. I did put a rubber mat under the hitch. DEFINITELY re-torque the top bolt AFTER lowering the trailer onto the hitch. Tighten the other two bolts after this. I found the top bolt needs tightening after lowering trailer with the rubber mat under the hitch. I do this every time now. I notice very little, if any, "chucking". This is my first 5th wheel (had tow trailer toyhaulers in the past) and I am impressed with how smooth it is. ALSO, I had to cut down a socket to get it to fit onto the bolt with the torque wrench, you may not have to do this. Hope this helps.
I'm towing a Cougar 326SRX with the Anderson. I did put a rubber mat under the hitch. DEFINITELY re-torque the top bolt AFTER lowering the trailer onto the hitch. Tighten the other two bolts after this. I found the top bolt needs tightening after lowering trailer with the rubber mat under the hitch. I do this every time now. I notice very little, if any, "chucking". This is my first 5th wheel (had tow trailer toyhaulers in the past) and I am impressed with how smooth it is. ALSO, I had to cut down a socket to get it to fit onto the bolt with the torque wrench, you may not have to do this. Hope this helps.
I use this website all the time. Also. OP As others have said it’s likely the bolts that are the issue. This was a common issue on my F-150 setup as I tow via gooseneck adapter. The locking nut was initially difficult to keep tight until I welded a second locking nut about 6” lower down. All my issues disappeared. So what I’m trying to articulate is your lower bolts likely need a re-torque or even a slightly higher torque number. Good luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2017
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Plenty of pro trailers fail every day.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2017
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I never posted "knowingly". Do you crawl under your TT and flashlight the connection under the ball every time you hook up? Heck it might have passed that even, and still could have failed while in transit. It's a pretty safe bet that it was like that for the previous driver as well and he didn't notice.
Plenty of pro trailers fail every day.
Plenty of pro trailers fail every day.
I now check the trailer hitch every-time I leave it unattended. Of course I only verify that the pins are correctly engaged on the exterior, it could have an internal failure that I would still be unaware of.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 5
From: Burton NB Canada
I never posted "knowingly". Do you crawl under your TT and flashlight the connection under the ball every time you hook up? Heck it might have passed that even, and still could have failed while in transit. It's a pretty safe bet that it was like that for the previous driver as well and he didn't notice.
Plenty of pro trailers fail every day.
Plenty of pro trailers fail every day.
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