Brakes pulling
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Joined: Dec 2017
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From: Bradenton, FL
Brakes pulling
I have a 1998 E150 Mark III Conversion Van with a 5.4L, tow package, extra-load tires and stiffer rear springs. We use it to tow our camper which weighs in around 4500 lbs. The total GCWR is around 11,500 lbs. The van without the camper is rated at 7000# GVRW and a GCWR at 13,000# so I believe I'm within the capacities of this van. In December I had the front brakes serviced with new loaded calipers and hoses. The the left rotor was fairly new and the right rotor didn't show any need to change it. The brakes were bled and the van stops very normally in day to day driving around town, but when I'm pulling my camper and the brakes get heated up the van pulls to the left. The steering wheel does not want to turn it's just the van itself. I've been told it could be the right brake is not working as well as the left. Any suggestions out there?? Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
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From: Bradenton, FL
Mo
Tuned
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"Left rotor fairly new" so it was replaced, probably because of wear and the right din't wear as much.
The vehicle pull to the left when the demands on the brakes are higher
The temperature on the left caliper is higher.
I think your issue is with the front right brake not having enough bite. Kink lines, leaky piston; worn, defective or contaminated with oil pads... I would check for leaks and replace all 4 pads to begin with.
The vehicle pull to the left when the demands on the brakes are higher
The temperature on the left caliper is higher.
I think your issue is with the front right brake not having enough bite. Kink lines, leaky piston; worn, defective or contaminated with oil pads... I would check for leaks and replace all 4 pads to begin with.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 9
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From: Bradenton, FL
"Left rotor fairly new" so it was replaced, probably because of wear and the right din't wear as much.
The vehicle pull to the left when the demands on the brakes are higher
The temperature on the left caliper is higher.
I think your issue is with the front right brake not having enough bite. Kink lines, leaky piston; worn, defective or contaminated with oil pads... I would check for leaks and replace all 4 pads to begin with.
The vehicle pull to the left when the demands on the brakes are higher
The temperature on the left caliper is higher.
I think your issue is with the front right brake not having enough bite. Kink lines, leaky piston; worn, defective or contaminated with oil pads... I would check for leaks and replace all 4 pads to begin with.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 5
From: N Ca.
"Left rotor fairly new" so it was replaced, probably because of wear and the right din't wear as much.
The vehicle pull to the left when the demands on the brakes are higher
The temperature on the left caliper is higher.
I think your issue is with the front right brake not having enough bite. Kink lines, leaky piston; worn, defective or contaminated with oil pads... I would check for leaks and replace all 4 pads to begin with.
The vehicle pull to the left when the demands on the brakes are higher
The temperature on the left caliper is higher.
I think your issue is with the front right brake not having enough bite. Kink lines, leaky piston; worn, defective or contaminated with oil pads... I would check for leaks and replace all 4 pads to begin with.
I would not throw parts at a problem w/o diagnosing the issue
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Tuned
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I usually agree with your last statement, but brake pads are a wear item, at some point you are going to replace them anyway, and not too expensive. You have to account also how much is your time worth. Sometimes it is better to replace one or two usual suspects than spending a lot of time chasing clues. On a 20 years old vehicle that could qualify also as preventive maintenance.
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From: Bradenton, FL
Brakes pulling
That too.
I usually agree with your last statement, but brake pads are a wear item, at some point you are going to replace them anyway, and not too expensive. You have to account also how much is your time worth. Sometimes it is better to replace one or two usual suspects than spending a lot of time chasing clues. On a 20 years old vehicle that could qualify also as preventive maintenance.
I usually agree with your last statement, but brake pads are a wear item, at some point you are going to replace them anyway, and not too expensive. You have to account also how much is your time worth. Sometimes it is better to replace one or two usual suspects than spending a lot of time chasing clues. On a 20 years old vehicle that could qualify also as preventive maintenance.
Regardless, my question remains: why does only happen when the brakes are very hot from heavy use (pulling my camper)? Around town and just normal day-to-day driving there is absolutely NO pull and everything feels perfectly normal.
I would appreciate those posters with the good suggestions let me know if they feel the same with the HOT brakes. Thanks so much for your thoughts -- many of which (if not all) are good ones.
Mo
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 2,196
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From: N Ca.
That too.
I usually agree with your last statement, but brake pads are a wear item, at some point you are going to replace them anyway, and not too expensive. You have to account also how much is your time worth. Sometimes it is better to replace one or two usual suspects than spending a lot of time chasing clues. On a 20 years old vehicle that could qualify also as preventive maintenance.
I usually agree with your last statement, but brake pads are a wear item, at some point you are going to replace them anyway, and not too expensive. You have to account also how much is your time worth. Sometimes it is better to replace one or two usual suspects than spending a lot of time chasing clues. On a 20 years old vehicle that could qualify also as preventive maintenance.
nope
something else is going on
what are the thicknesses of the rotors?
also
maybe something with the hitch is out of alignment?
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