E150 brakes
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E150 brakes
I have a 1995 E-150 conversion van. The front brakes have been overheating. Without getting into everything I have done so far, let me say the rear brakes have been inspected and adjusted. New front pads with rotors turned. (Even new calipers).
The last shop I talked to suggested that "firewall flex" can allow the master cylinder to put minimal pressure on the front brakes (heating them) while driving around without the brakes on. Then when I need the brakes for down hill runs, etc., they are already heated up - thus overheating quicker than normal.
Watching the MC while the brake pedal is being depressed showed movement in the 3/8" to 1/2" range.
I drove the van home (flat - 6 miles) and sprayed a little water on the brakes. They sizzled pretty well.
The van has the straigt six with an automatic.
Any help would be appreciated.
Don
The last shop I talked to suggested that "firewall flex" can allow the master cylinder to put minimal pressure on the front brakes (heating them) while driving around without the brakes on. Then when I need the brakes for down hill runs, etc., they are already heated up - thus overheating quicker than normal.
Watching the MC while the brake pedal is being depressed showed movement in the 3/8" to 1/2" range.
I drove the van home (flat - 6 miles) and sprayed a little water on the brakes. They sizzled pretty well.
The van has the straigt six with an automatic.
Any help would be appreciated.
Don
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: On A Ship, MI
im not fimilar with the e-150s but do you have a shroud that sits behind teh rotor? if you do it channels air to cool the breaks check and see if its bent if it is hammer it flat and use the other side as a template. as for over heating.... its kinda hard to over heat the disc break set up but you can glaze the pads. when you put the calipers back on did you grease the bolts or slide rails? as for fire wall flex.... maybe it could happen.... if you have some time get a new master cylnder(whole asembly) or rebuild(fun fun!!) when you remove the mc check the fw with a straight edge to see if it is in fact "bowed" also check and see if the push rod that goes in to the mc is adusted. it could be a block in the replenshing ports not alowing fluide to go back into the resivore.
if you dont want to pay for new rotors DO NOT pour watter it will cause warrping. some times turning can not make it true again once its warped
if you dont want to pay for new rotors DO NOT pour watter it will cause warrping. some times turning can not make it true again once its warped
Last edited by rangersvt04; Jan 21, 2004 at 09:12 PM.
