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Frozen down pipe

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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 07:14 PM
  #1  
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Frozen down pipe

Hi everyone,
I'm still trying to swap my 6.9 for a 7.3 in my 87 F 350 dually. I finally got the 7.3 out of the donor truck and now I'm removing the 6.9 out of my truck. I
have gotten to the point removing the down pipe on the ATS turbo. It is solidly frozen into the dual chamber cast housing. I have attempted to save this turbo as there is nothing wrong with it, But I'm at the end of my tolerance level. Is there any way to get this down pipe off. My next tool is going to be either a smoke wrench or a 20 lb. sledge hammer.
Any ideas ????????
Peter
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 10:28 AM
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Exhaust down pipe

What's happened to all of you guys that insist that they can swap one of these engines in a day ? Someone must have had this problem in the past. I can't believe that I am the only one. Let's have some input !

Peter
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 10:38 AM
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Have youu tried soaking it for a few days with PB Blaster?

I'm not familiar with the ATS Turbo; however, I had to separate the intake and exhaust side of my Banks turbo before I lifted my 7.3L out of the back of my dad's truck. It had years of carbon build up and grime on it. After a quick shot of PB Blaster it came apart easily.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 11:00 AM
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I have soaked everything in PB. Great stuff. Everything is unbolted. The problem is with the slip fit of the turbo exhaust and the cast iron housing. PB will not penetrate upside down. I'm now thinking of simply cutting it off with a torch, and junking the rest. Removing the turbo is holding up the entire engine swap.
Thanks for the response.
Peter
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 11:48 AM
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Can you pull and install the engine with this part assembled? Maybe loosen or remove the cab mount bolts and jack the cab up? I think R&D makes a replacement downpipe or this might just be a part easily made at any exhaust shop, just a slip fit into the cast elbow off the turbine? Worst case just cut the pipe past where it attaches to the cast downpipe elbow and that part can be removed on the bench saving the cast elbow, or removed intact and a new downpipe welded to the fitting end of it.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 11:59 AM
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No, the engine cannot be pulled with the pipe in place. It will not clear the C-6 Transmission. I have been trying to avoid torching and cutting on this turbo, because I hate wrecking something simply so that it can be removed. Thats why I spent hours unbolting things very carefully. I guess I'm at the point where extreme measures need to be taken.

Peter
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 12:07 PM
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If the engine can't be removed because of the transmission can you remove the transmisssion from underneath with the turbo in place and then remove the engine and turbo?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 12:11 PM
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With the ATS you need to heat the turbo housing, keep the down pipe wrapped with a wet rag and then take a pry bar and pop the pipe. I use the intake manifold for leverage.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 12:57 PM
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This sounds like the voice of experience. I will have to re-bolt the turbo to the pedestal so that it does not flop around all over the place, but thats not a problem.
I will be attempting this on Wednesday as the temperatures in the garage won't be livable until then.
I will let you know the outcome.
Thanks for the input,
Peter
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter A.
No, the engine cannot be pulled with the pipe in place. It will not clear the C-6 Transmission. I have been trying to avoid torching and cutting on this turbo, because I hate wrecking something simply so that it can be removed. Thats why I spent hours unbolting things very carefully. I guess I'm at the point where extreme measures need to be taken.
Don't cut or torch the turbo or any castings, just cut the downpipe. Since the ATS/Ford system has the cast elbow I'd imagine you're only looking at a bend or two and a few bucks of exhaust pipe to make a new one.

Alternatively, remove the cast elbow from the turbo and leave it in the truck, or cut as much as needed to remove the cast elbow with whatever is left of the downpipe. Clean it up on the bench and you're ready to put a new downpipe on it when reinstalling.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2018 | 04:16 PM
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Could not wait to try the heat and pop off method. Did not work. Now The down pipe is beat to s..t. the only thing left is to torch the pipe high enough to clear the transmission.
I'm not looking forward to this as you can barely get a screwdriver next to where it needs to be cut. I reall would like to talk to the as....e that designed this. If you're out there please PM me.
I will keep you posted as to the outcome.
Peter
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 04:14 PM
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I'm now in my 10th hour of attempting to unbolt the ATS 088 turbo from my truck. I cut the exhaust down pipe as close as possible to the housing, only to find that the other pipe is also seized.
It appears that the Sacramento dealership that installed this turbo did not know what anti seize compound is. In an attempt to at least get some accomplishment for the day I decided to remove the passenger exhaust manifold. That gave me a mechanical advantage for my pry bar. I raised the turbo with the bar and was able to remove the oil return pedestal. The turbo now rests about 3.25 inches lower than it did before. Since I only have to lift the engine about 2 inches up to clear the mount bolts, would I the be able to remove the engine, and leave the damn turbo in the Truck ?

Peter
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 07:36 PM
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I skipped ahead here, but i had the same issue with my 088. I cut the exhaust under the cab somewhere, not even short. Got the turbo ubolted finally and just fished and finaggled it out while lifting / lowering the engine and just moving stuff around in general. Was a major bitch to do, but i got it out, didnt even have to cut off the exhaust hanger post. I wish my up pipe was seized... damn thing is like a hot dog in a hallway, got loose and just wore and wore, needless to say, massive exhaust leak.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 08:14 PM
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Remove cab mount bolts, jack the cab up, put wood blocks between cab and frame. You can probably get all the clearance you need to get the engine pulled. Then you can heat and soak the crusty bits as needed with full access.
 
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