Just picked up this truck with 67k original miles. (no, the odo hasn't rolled over) and don't know where to even start with it as far as maintenance goes. It runs and drives fine, but feels pretty piggish and is pretty noisy. (I'll try to get a video up in a couple hours) I want to make it completely roadworthy so it won't leave me stranded or catch on fire. Besides the obvious fluid changes, plugs and wires, battery etc, what else should I be replacing or upgrading immediately? I'd say I'm willing to put in maybe a grand or so to get it in top shape for now. I read about replacing the timing chain set with a pre 72 for better responsiveness? What about gutting the smog stuff? Any resources at all would be appreciated.

Videos here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I2_...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1trc...​​

 

By noisy, are you referring to exhaust or engine noise. If it's engine I'd change the oil and substitute 1 qt. of oil for a pint of Marvel Mystery oil. It's great for freeing up gummed up lifters. Also wouldn't hurt to put a kit in the carb. If it has stock exhaust manifolds a set of headers will help it breath. Since it's a 75 it should have solid state ignition. If not ditch the points and put a Pertronix unit in it. All new hoses would also be a good step in reliability. Flush the brake system and if it has the original rubber brake lines, replace them with S.S. lines. Check all of the wheel cylinders/calipers for leaks or binding. Put a vacuum gauge on the engine and check for any leaks or pulsing. You could spend up to a week just going through the items I've mentioned depending on what you find. If you ever pull the heads make sure they have hardened valve seats for todays crappy fuel. Original rubber fuel lines should also be replaced. The timing set that you already mentioned would also be great. The old engines had nylon cam gears that wore out fairly quickly if good clean oil wasn't kept up/

 

Hi Mike, thanks for the reply. I'm gonna get a video up in a couple hours. But it's definitely engine AND exhaust noise. I haven't had any time to go through it yet but I suspect a cracked, or otherwise leaking manifold. I do plan on sticking some kind of headers / high flow exhaust on for sure. As far as fluids, I've heard Marvel is good, but have also read to use also the Lucas additive, or a ZDDP additive, or amsoil... Seems like a lot of options / potential conflicts. What about a full Seafoam treatment? What exactly do you mean 'carb kit?'

Thanks, do you know of anywhere that sells full vacuum hose kits or radiator hoses / brake lines / fuel line kits? Or do I have to piece everything together individually?

 

Someone has put 73/74 grill inserts on it. You sure it's a '75 ?

 

I've had to buy most hoses separately.Any engine that has flat tappet lifters I now add ZDDP.
Rebuild kit for the carb.

 

Fairly sure, according to vin plates / stickers and all the registration paperwork I have dating back to the 80s. It also came with what I assume are the original manuals.



There's no saying what happened in 44 years. Obviously the hood and roof have been primered, and it also has a new windshield. Everywhere I look, this appears to be the correct grill for the 75...

 

Congrats on the new truck. Can't open the second video - I get a Google Drive privacy error.

On the first video I mostly hear exhaust leaks, you may have some other noises under that, but the exhaust sounds are making it hard to hear anything else. Cracks in the manifolds are not uncommon.

 

Here is the actual error I get:
​​​​​​We're sorry. You can't access this item because it is in violation of our Terms of Service.

Find out more about this topic at the Google Drive Help Center.

 

 

Just based on my experience with a 68 Merc I bought several years back that had 58,000 on the clock, instead of doing it piecemeal, pull the engine and go through it for no other reason than to change all the dried up gaskets. Once you start driving it as is, it's going to leak oil like the Exxon Valdez. If it's got an automatic, pour a quart of Lucas Transmission Treatment in the fluid, that'll free up the gummed up internals in the C6

 

Looking at pictures, you're right, the grill is 1973-1975


Today is the anniversary of that disaster

 

Really ? Damn I need to buy lottery tickets.....................

 

My 75 F100 has the same grill insert and I bought it new in May 1975.

 

They changed the grill inserts in 76

 

Nice Truck!! How can you tell though when the odometer hasn't rolled over? Seems like a tough call to me. There's really no way to tell is there?

Anyway to your questions. You could easily drop a $1000 on tires or the brake system alone. I wish it weren't that way but it's true. First thing to do though is get yourself a repro copy of the Ford Truck Shop Manual. It has all the specifications and R&R procedures to do any task from simple to complex, and do it right.

Worth every penny, it will help save you a lot of time & aggravation and effect a quality, lasting repair. Now, after 50 years there's no telling what somebody may, or may not have done, to that thing. Half the battle with these old trucks, unless you've major mods planned as anybody will tell you, is just getting things back the way they were from the factory. Easier said than done sometimes, but the manual takes a lot of the guesswork out.

In no particular order other than start from the ground up - Front wheel bearing inspection & repack isn't a bad idea. If the bearings are still good don't replace them. The name of the game is to reuse what you can, but replace those critical safety items that are no longer within limits. If a part is worn out, well by golly it's worn out, but - don't just go replacing it with an $8 OttoZone el-cheapo blister-pac special. See where I'm goin' with that? You want to use better quality parts.

And in many cases the worn original parts are just better than brand new junk. If you need new parts NOS aren't usually any more expensive!Particularly bearings.The parts stores have (some) really crappy parts these days - don't throw ANYTHING away. You don't have to buy necessarily the best new parts available but try to use the same level of quality that professionals use, usually a mid grade quality, purchased by pros because they just can't afford customers coming back with warranty claims. If you're at a place like NAPA ask the countercritter if they offer different level qualities or grades of parts. It used to be they had "good, better, best". This is especially important with Ignition parts. Use Motorcraft only.

The lubrication intervals have been neglected I betcha! Get your greasegun ready. 500 mile intervals. Check for rear axle seal leakage, when you're checking out the rear brake drum innards. Make sure the rear differential vent tube isn't clogged. It will cause leaks past the seals then. Mud daubers like to set up shop inside the vent.

Tires - if they are old, it's time for new. Steel stock wheels are good quality, if you're going to use them have them checked out for bent and excessive runout. If OK, have new tires mounted and balanced. Shocks front and back are undoubtedly trash by now. Check driveshaft yoke, center support bearing, U-joint bearings. These trucks drive surprisingly smooth and quiet if each component or system is in spec and balanced. Inspect steering components & wheel bearing play, to include tie-rod ends, drag link, steering link etc., for wear. "Whoa!" is just as important as "go!" or "giddyup!"

Get in the Operator's Manual, get in the Shop Manual and study it, there's way too many things to cover here, read the FTE forum archives, and eventually you'll have yourself a reliable, good ole truck you can jump in anytime and drive anywhere (and back!) no problem.