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In addition to all the other problems (like replacing the friggin' head!), my 95 F150 4.9L, 5 speed is having an issue with the clutch.
The pedal went mushy on me. With the engine running I can't shift, but it goes in and out of gear easily with the engine off. If I pump it up rapidly, it will barely let me shift into gear with the engine running, but that only lasts for a minute or so. I have to pump it rapidly again a dozen or so times for the clutch to move enough to shift again.
I don't see any visible leaks at the slave or master cylinder. Having my wife work the pedal while I watch, I can see the clutch move about 3/4 of an inch through the view port on the bell housing. So the clutch is moving, just not enough to fully disengage while the engine is running. Reservoir is full, and I did pull the rubber insert to make sure it wasn't just fluid sitting on top of it.
I don't want to just throw parts at it since I just spent a ton of money getting the engine running right so I'm hoping someone can help troubleshoot with the list of symptoms.
I would guess it's the master cylinder beings you aren't losing fluid. Usually the slave cylinder will leak when it fails. I would certainly try replacing the master cylinder first due to the work involved in replacing the slave cylinder, removing the transmission and all.
I would guess it's the master cylinder beings you aren't losing fluid. Usually the slave cylinder will leak when it fails. I would certainly try replacing the master cylinder first due to the work involved in replacing the slave cylinder, removing the transmission and all.
That was my thought, but wanted to verify since I don't have much experience with hydraulic clutches. Probably an internal leak/bypass in the master?
The thought of pulling the transmission doesn't even bother me today since I just spent around 80 manhours troubleshooting a miss, then having to replace the head. Holy crap that was an insane amount of time and money!!
You didn't mention trying to bleed the clutch, you can bleed it just like bleeding brakes. Small chance there is just air in it, but may be a bad master/slave.
You didn't mention trying to bleed the clutch, you can bleed it just like bleeding brakes. Small chance there is just air in it, but may be a bad master/slave.
I used a power bleeder on it before I pulled the engine apart. It didn't seem to make much difference. I pulled quite a bit of the old fluid through, but didn't see any air. Made sure to keep it topped off while I was bleeding so I didn't suck air in from the top.
Yeah, once I finally ruled out fuel and air issues, it left a mechanical problem as the only answer. Pulled the head and had it magnafluxed. He found the #2 intake valve had started to recess into the seat, so he said that would cause it to hang up. Then he found 3 small cracks in the casting. My hopes of having a quick rebuild were ruined, but luckily there is a cylinder head place here in Dallas that had one in stock. First time I'd been this deep in a Ford engine. Can't say it is any harder or easier than Chevy or old diesel engines. But holy crap, that was a chore.
Just took her for her first test drive. Pumped the living hell out of the clutch, probably 30 or 40 times rapidly. It let me run to the end of the road and back working through the gears. Started getting hard to get back in gear as I pulled into the driveway. Looked all around the firewall, in the cab, and at the slave. No leaky.
That's really making me think it's having some internal issue with the master. But hey, at least it doesn't seem to be the slave. Pulling the tranny would be a pain. :/
Justin - I feel ya on both issues. I had a dead skip on my 300 that turned out to be a recessed valve in the #2 cylinder. One valve job later and the truck was running like a top. In terms of the clutch, I had a similar issue to yours. While mine didn't completely fail to disengage, I was having to use pretty excessive force to get the truck in any gear while in neutral with the engine running. Reverse ground every time. Additionally, my clutch pedal pressure got lighter and lighter. Pumping helped to a certain extent. This was after a remanned master cylinder was installed, following a blown out clutch line down to the slave. It "seems" the problem has been mitigated with the installation of another new master cylinder and new clutch line. Might be worth looking at, if the clutch line is the original...
Hopefully I can help ya out some, I understand your pain.
Justin - I feel ya on both issues. I had a dead skip on my 300 that turned out to be a recessed valve in the #2 cylinder. One valve job later and the truck was running like a top. In terms of the clutch, I had a similar issue to yours. While mine didn't completely fail to disengage, I was having to use pretty excessive force to get the truck in any gear while in neutral with the engine running. Reverse ground every time. Additionally, my clutch pedal pressure got lighter and lighter. Pumping helped to a certain extent. This was after a remanned master cylinder was installed, following a blown out clutch line down to the slave. It "seems" the problem has been mitigated with the installation of another new master cylinder and new clutch line. Might be worth looking at, if the clutch line is the original...
Hopefully I can help ya out some, I understand your pain.
Evan
Thanks for posting! She's running better than ever now that the head issue is fixed.
I just power bled the clutch to the point of having to top off the reservoir twice with my little Mightyvac. It got me some pedal feel back and I was able to go more than a mile or two. The wife is on the way home with a new master cylinder. I'll see how it does after a few hours of sitting. If it even acts like it doesn't want to shift, I'll bench bleed that new master and put it in. So tired of messing with problem after problem. If it keeps this up, I'll have the only brand new 95 Ford on earth. One piece at a time.
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