2006 V-10 engine Knock
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Kempton, Pa
Polished the crank journal by hand. Installed new bearings.
Too far gone! Knock is still there.
Engine time.
Best local Ford dealer price so far is $4750 plus $800 core, which they will waive for a week cause they know me.
Jasper price I got was $6,000. WOW !!
Powertrain Products wants $5125 plus $150 Freight. I questioned that price cause the 6.8's on their site show $3495
Too far gone! Knock is still there.
Engine time.
Best local Ford dealer price so far is $4750 plus $800 core, which they will waive for a week cause they know me.
Jasper price I got was $6,000. WOW !!
Powertrain Products wants $5125 plus $150 Freight. I questioned that price cause the 6.8's on their site show $3495
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Look at Autozone they got some good quality suppliers for long blocks. The companay bought one for one of the fleet trucks so far its been holding good heres the thread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ck-of-oil.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ck-of-oil.html
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 22
From: Catskill Mountains Of NY
I had a knock above 2000 rpm. 2000 Excursion 4x4.
I jacked up motor and removed oil pan. #1 rod bearing was beat up. All others were in great shape.
took me 1 day to jack up motor and remove oil pan.
1 day to put tri metal bearings in all rods.
1/2 day to put back togather.
I think the cause was a bad injector clip. That cylinder was dead.....intermittently due to the clip on injector being broken.
I jacked up motor and removed oil pan. #1 rod bearing was beat up. All others were in great shape.
took me 1 day to jack up motor and remove oil pan.
1 day to put tri metal bearings in all rods.
1/2 day to put back togather.
I think the cause was a bad injector clip. That cylinder was dead.....intermittently due to the clip on injector being broken.
Hi I think I just spun a rod bearing on my 2000 V10 Ex with 233,000 on it. I just bought the truck that was sitting for a few years.I do not have the money to buy a new engine and was thinking of replacing the rod bearings.Rock Auto has several different styles and sizes of the tri-metal shells. How do I know which ones to buy? Do I need to mike the journals to figure under sizing? Should I change the main bearings at the same time? If done right, can I expect this to be a lasting repair? Are you still running your Ex after your repair?
Thanks, I didn't want to start a new tread behind this.
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 22
From: Catskill Mountains Of NY
Polished the crank journal by hand. Installed new bearings.
Too far gone! Knock is still there.
Engine time.
Best local Ford dealer price so far is $4750 plus $800 core, which they will waive for a week cause they know me.
Jasper price I got was $6,000. WOW !!
Powertrain Products wants $5125 plus $150 Freight. I questioned that price cause the 6.8's on their site show $3495
Too far gone! Knock is still there.
Engine time.
Best local Ford dealer price so far is $4750 plus $800 core, which they will waive for a week cause they know me.
Jasper price I got was $6,000. WOW !!
Powertrain Products wants $5125 plus $150 Freight. I questioned that price cause the 6.8's on their site show $3495
Thanks
Last edited by DoOver; Aug 28, 2020 at 05:42 PM. Reason: I forgot to say um yes er please um THANK YOU
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 22
From: Catskill Mountains Of NY
Rock Auto does not list them?
Thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
1st you cannot put in new crank main bearings without removing transmission.
If your rod bearing has spun than your motor will need to be removed because the rod will be toast.
The crank has a slight chance at being ok because it's a hardened forged unit.
the quote of mine above address a knock that was NOT a spun bearing but a hammered bearing. I am still driving the motor that I replaced the rod bearings on. And it's supercharged, with no issues.
ford sells the rod bolts.
Any 5.4L ford rod bearings will work on a V10.
These cranks are surface hardened and forged I think and if you spun a bearing and need thicker bearings they will not last. Mainly because the rod end will be overheated and out of round.
spun rod bearings mean new rod,...at a minimum.
If your rod bearing has spun than your motor will need to be removed because the rod will be toast.
The crank has a slight chance at being ok because it's a hardened forged unit.
the quote of mine above address a knock that was NOT a spun bearing but a hammered bearing. I am still driving the motor that I replaced the rod bearings on. And it's supercharged, with no issues.
ford sells the rod bolts.
Any 5.4L ford rod bearings will work on a V10.
These cranks are surface hardened and forged I think and if you spun a bearing and need thicker bearings they will not last. Mainly because the rod end will be overheated and out of round.
spun rod bearings mean new rod,...at a minimum.
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 22
From: Catskill Mountains Of NY
1st you cannot put in new crank main bearings without removing transmission.
If your rod bearing has spun than your motor will need to be removed because the rod will be toast.
The crank has a slight chance at being ok because it's a hardened forged unit.
the quote of mine above address a knock that was NOT a spun bearing but a hammered bearing. I am still driving the motor that I replaced the rod bearings on. And it's supercharged, with no issues.
ford sells the rod bolts.
Any 5.4L ford rod bearings will work on a V10.
These cranks are surface hardened and forged I think and if you spun a bearing and need thicker bearings they will not last. Mainly because the rod end will be overheated and out of round.
spun rod bearings mean new rod,...at a minimum.
If your rod bearing has spun than your motor will need to be removed because the rod will be toast.
The crank has a slight chance at being ok because it's a hardened forged unit.
the quote of mine above address a knock that was NOT a spun bearing but a hammered bearing. I am still driving the motor that I replaced the rod bearings on. And it's supercharged, with no issues.
ford sells the rod bolts.
Any 5.4L ford rod bearings will work on a V10.
These cranks are surface hardened and forged I think and if you spun a bearing and need thicker bearings they will not last. Mainly because the rod end will be overheated and out of round.
spun rod bearings mean new rod,...at a minimum.
I might have over stated 'spun bearing'. The engine had a 'rattle' when I first got it running last week after apparently sitting for 7 years.
The 'rattle' sounded like it was a baffle in the muffler, the exhaust is quite otherwise.
Driving the Ex, the brake calipers are hanging up and then freeing up causing me to give the truck more gas to move it.
The rattle seems to go away but is definitely there at start up.
Coming home yesterday, I stopped and held the brakes while talking to a neighbor for a few minutes.
Upon departing, for the last 1/2 mile up my road, a moderate incline, the brakes where dragging and the engine was working a little harder.
Before shutting off the 'hot' engine there was a pronounced 'knock' which I labeled a 'spun rod bearing'.
That is when I came in house and wrote my query here.
Starting the Ex cold this morning it sounds like the 'muffler baffle rattle' again.
There was an empty quart of Mobile 1 5w-30 in the glove department, so I assume that was the oil used by the last owner.
Oil pressure gauge is above half and has not moved.
Oil is a little brown but full.
So then, is there any way I can reasonably check the rod bearings, crank journals and connecting rods visually and by feel by pulling the oil pan and looking?
Thanks again
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 22
From: Catskill Mountains Of NY
Not sure when my knock developed. I bought it with 98,000 miles on OD. At 108,000 I put a supercharger on it and noticed a knock above 2000 rpm.
like I mentioned, I only had 1 bad bearing and I kinda think it had to do with a broken injector clip that was present when I purchased the vehicle. I cant figure any other reason for it because #1 sees better oil pressure than most and all others were pristine.
like I mentioned, I only had 1 bad bearing and I kinda think it had to do with a broken injector clip that was present when I purchased the vehicle. I cant figure any other reason for it because #1 sees better oil pressure than most and all others were pristine.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Probably 10K since new bearings.
I found my issue by disconnecting injector clips one at a time. Basically killing 1 cylinder at a time and listening for knock. If knock present move to next cylinder until knock goes away.
This process identified the #1 cylinder as the one with a knock issue.
I found my issue by disconnecting injector clips one at a time. Basically killing 1 cylinder at a time and listening for knock. If knock present move to next cylinder until knock goes away.
This process identified the #1 cylinder as the one with a knock issue.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
That "exhaust baffle" sound baffles me 
If you find that the "pull the injector plug" doesn't make it go away, check that the flexplate is not cracked around where it bolts to the crankshaft.
If you find that the "pull the injector plug" doesn't make it go away, check that the flexplate is not cracked around where it bolts to the crankshaft.
Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 928
From: Home Base Nebraska
The first thing you need to do is pull all your calipers and lube the slide pins so the brakes will stop hanging up.
You said the oil was brown but full, the things been sitting for 7 years so I hope you changed it and the filter before starting it up. If you haven't you may have a plugged oil fiter and the motor is starving for oil. At 223K miles the motors going to have some noises when hot, I'm not sure how many miles you have driven it but a bad rod doesn't last long and it doesn't come and go it knocks all the time so if you have a knock it's probably a worn main bearing that will come and go and last for awhile if not abused. It could even be a bad serpentine belt that's deformed from sitting to long causing a knocking sound, serpentine belts will do that I know from experience.
If your new to a V10 especially the 2000 they have some strange noises that V8 motors don't have from resonate noises in the Y pipe to flex plate problems like Krewat mentioned plus loose heat shields.
The first thing I would do is take the belt off and start it up and seea if some of the noises go away.
Denny
You said the oil was brown but full, the things been sitting for 7 years so I hope you changed it and the filter before starting it up. If you haven't you may have a plugged oil fiter and the motor is starving for oil. At 223K miles the motors going to have some noises when hot, I'm not sure how many miles you have driven it but a bad rod doesn't last long and it doesn't come and go it knocks all the time so if you have a knock it's probably a worn main bearing that will come and go and last for awhile if not abused. It could even be a bad serpentine belt that's deformed from sitting to long causing a knocking sound, serpentine belts will do that I know from experience.
If your new to a V10 especially the 2000 they have some strange noises that V8 motors don't have from resonate noises in the Y pipe to flex plate problems like Krewat mentioned plus loose heat shields.
The first thing I would do is take the belt off and start it up and seea if some of the noises go away.
Denny
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 22
From: Catskill Mountains Of NY
The first thing you need to do is pull all your calipers and lube the slide pins so the brakes will stop hanging up.
You said the oil was brown but full, the things been sitting for 7 years so I hope you changed it and the filter before starting it up. If you haven't you may have a plugged oil fiter and the motor is starving for oil. At 223K miles the motors going to have some noises when hot, I'm not sure how many miles you have driven it but a bad rod doesn't last long and it doesn't come and go it knocks all the time so if you have a knock it's probably a worn main bearing that will come and go and last for awhile if not abused. It could even be a bad serpentine belt that's deformed from sitting to long causing a knocking sound, serpentine belts will do that I know from experience.
If your new to a V10 especially the 2000 they have some strange noises that V8 motors don't have from resonate noises in the Y pipe to flex plate problems like Krewat mentioned plus loose heat shields.
The first thing I would do is take the belt off and start it up and seea if some of the noises go away.
Denny
You said the oil was brown but full, the things been sitting for 7 years so I hope you changed it and the filter before starting it up. If you haven't you may have a plugged oil fiter and the motor is starving for oil. At 223K miles the motors going to have some noises when hot, I'm not sure how many miles you have driven it but a bad rod doesn't last long and it doesn't come and go it knocks all the time so if you have a knock it's probably a worn main bearing that will come and go and last for awhile if not abused. It could even be a bad serpentine belt that's deformed from sitting to long causing a knocking sound, serpentine belts will do that I know from experience.
If your new to a V10 especially the 2000 they have some strange noises that V8 motors don't have from resonate noises in the Y pipe to flex plate problems like Krewat mentioned plus loose heat shields.
The first thing I would do is take the belt off and start it up and seea if some of the noises go away.
Denny
I'll get a new motorcraft and put in that Mobil 1 5w-30 like I think the last guy had in it.
Thanks
Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 22
From: Catskill Mountains Of NY
Ok I installed a new Wix filter and a quart of oil.
Oil was like tar.
I put a pan under the oil filter and the oil filter drippings did have some "babbit' (I love that old word) short and curlies in it.
I started it up and had the same 'rattle' type sound to it.
I will free up the calipers tomorrow and take her for a ride.
I'll cut open the filter tomorrow and see whats inside.
Oil was like tar.
I put a pan under the oil filter and the oil filter drippings did have some "babbit' (I love that old word) short and curlies in it.
I started it up and had the same 'rattle' type sound to it.
I will free up the calipers tomorrow and take her for a ride.
I'll cut open the filter tomorrow and see whats inside.