Fifth wheel hitch
New User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 20
Likes: 2
I was thinking I needed to buy a new hitch until I did some research and found the info on drilling the holes.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
+1 on the Andersen, I have had mine since 2013 and many many miles later liked it enough to upgrade from the steel version to the aluminum version. I can hit if easier looking out the back window (previous truck didn't have high mounted camera) than most can hit a ball mounted to the receiver hitch at the bumper.
Senior User
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 234
Likes: 2
I can see the ball from the drivers seat and can hit the spot first time, every time. Not difficult.
Cab clearance depends more on shape of the front cap than short or long bed. I have a F350 CC SB SRW and Grand Design Reflection 337 and have at least 12 inches cab clearance with the hitch adapter in either position.
The AUH is lighter, easily removable, less expensive and provides a better ride - no bucking or chucking. I have yet to meet anyone who has used one that doesn't like it. (I'm probably about to, though. <G>)
Cab clearance depends more on shape of the front cap than short or long bed. I have a F350 CC SB SRW and Grand Design Reflection 337 and have at least 12 inches cab clearance with the hitch adapter in either position.
The AUH is lighter, easily removable, less expensive and provides a better ride - no bucking or chucking. I have yet to meet anyone who has used one that doesn't like it. (I'm probably about to, though. <G>)
This is exactly it! I spent all winter agonizing over which hitch to move to to reduce the weight (so it could be easily removed). I read more about hitches than you can imagine. I never read a single negative review about the Andersen from anyone who actually owned one. ALL thrilled owners. I did read tons of negative comments from skeptics and people who had no experience with one. Bottom line is that many people are afraid of anything different. It’s not conventional, so it must be wrong. Ha ha! I guess it’s good that there are so many options out there. Buy what you’re comfortable with.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Louisville, TN
Does anyone use the Andersen Rail Mount version (Model 3200) with the Reese rail system (#30156) or the Demco mounting adapter (#6175) for the OEM puck system? I like the idea of attaching it to the rail adapter and then just dropping the whole assembly into the pucks for quick install and removal. I know it would add to the weight a little but I am just considering the convenience and ability to spread the load to the pucks instead of the bed.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
I use a Reese 18K hitch only because it was one of the few that fit the ford bed pucks in my '11. It still works perfect in my '17, a little heavy, if I'm by myself I just remove the head (2 pins) and can load the hitch easy. It really has been a flawless hitch. Good luck with whatever you purchase.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 325
Likes: 8
From: Central Ohio
Also, does the thickness of the mat interfere with anchoring at the other two attachment points? Last question - does the mat create wear on the sprayed liner?
This looks great!
New User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 20
Likes: 2
I just got done drilling out the two holes in my Andersen.
Someone posted to remove all the caps in your truck bed, mount your Andersen, crawl underneath and mark the position (I used a long pencil). I went a step farther and taped out the outline of the hitch while mounted and traced position on tape. I uninstalled hitch, flipped it over, found the marks and just started making measurements to be positive on location. I bought a new 3 1/4 inch hole saw (about $40.00) and taped the front and back of the hitch of the drill location. I drilled a small pilot hole and then went in with my hole saw. I think I would have had a better cut with a true metal hole saw but it wasn't too bad drilling the aluminum. I used a file and then followed up with appropriate sand paper. Turned out good.
I do not have a mat so can't help with that.
It's not hard to drill the hole just make sure you are in the right spot!
Someone posted to remove all the caps in your truck bed, mount your Andersen, crawl underneath and mark the position (I used a long pencil). I went a step farther and taped out the outline of the hitch while mounted and traced position on tape. I uninstalled hitch, flipped it over, found the marks and just started making measurements to be positive on location. I bought a new 3 1/4 inch hole saw (about $40.00) and taped the front and back of the hitch of the drill location. I drilled a small pilot hole and then went in with my hole saw. I think I would have had a better cut with a true metal hole saw but it wasn't too bad drilling the aluminum. I used a file and then followed up with appropriate sand paper. Turned out good.
I do not have a mat so can't help with that.
It's not hard to drill the hole just make sure you are in the right spot!
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 997
Likes: 262
From: Central New York
How did you locate and cut the holes in the bed mat where the hitch pucks are? The hole looks perfectly round and perfectly centered.
Also, does the thickness of the mat interfere with anchoring at the other two attachment points? Last question - does the mat create wear on the sprayed liner?
This looks great!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
I bought the demco autoslide. I would not do a manual slide again. The demco will fit your trailer without an adapter and I can go past 90 if needed. It’s a heavy beast, I leave it on the trailer when not in use. I have a ccsb with the factory prep package. Excited to use it for the first time this week 
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