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getting ready to do the CV swap in my ‘66. Can one of you guys that’s already done this give me a rough measurement that the axle center should be from the front of the frame? Really nervous about doing this and just looking for some reassurance.
This is from a 67-72 but check it out. Also join the facebook group Crown Vic Sub Frame swap as there is lots of great swap kits that guy put together to help make it easier for you.
getting ready to do the CV swap in my ‘66. Can one of you guys that’s already done this give me a rough measurement that the axle center should be from the front of the frame? Really nervous about doing this and just looking for some reassurance.
Hey Dano61, did you get the measurements you needed? I just did a CV swap on my twin I-beam 65 F100 and getting ready to install the engine/trans. If you need measurements let me know. My front clip is still off and frame is wide open right now with the CV axle mounted in place. I will have easy access for a few days. Once I am sure the engine fits (going from inline 6 to 5.0L) as I want it, I have to pressure wash frame and cab so I can get some paint on things while i have everything opened up.
CV install was pretty easy. More intimidating than it needs to be. Best advise I can give you, is measure everything several times, take pictures with your phone so you have reference and be sure it is solid on some good jack stands so it is safe to poke around under! It is more work getting the old stuff out than putting the new stuff in. After nose was off, and engine out and truck on stands, it really probably only took like 4 or 5 hours to cut old stuff out and have new axle mounted firmly in place. I moved the axle center ahead about 1 inch, a hole in the frame is in a good spot there, plus I saw another build where they did the same and it seems to look better forward just a touch.
From what I read, we will really enjoy the way the truck stops and steers with this front end. Can't wait to get mine on the road. Can't be any worse!! I lost 5 pounds each time i drove mine, and needed both feet on the manual drums to slow down softly. lol
Fuelsmoke, that would be awesome and greatly appreciated. I’m doing basically the same thing, taking out the in-line 6 and going in with a 5.0. If you run across any other unforeseen situations, please sharpie as well!
I'd be happy to help. One thing i did was get engine mounts all set up for the inline, even welded them to frame. Then pulled the inline apart for new gaskets and lower bearings as a precaution. Ended up finding my 240 to be worn out really a lot more than expected. It ran so good, I was surprised. I had a new offy intake and everything. I got a quote of $1544 to bore the block, polish the crank, rebuild head with new valves and seats, new pistons and rings, on and on. I said no to that. I bought a 5.0L and all the harness and ECU from a 95 Mustang.
So back to the engine mounts. I already had mine fairly permanent. I couldn't use the mounts from the mustang, so I got mounts for a 79 F150 with a 302. Fit engine no problem, and they lower the engine a little but fit the perches i welded in. The engine is a little ahead from where it should be, but is just behind center on axle, and shorter than the inline so I am leaving it. On ebay( I think), you will find you can buy adjustable mounts for a 5.0 to a CV front axle for about $170. If i hadn't welded my perches I would definitely buy those, just to be a clean install. But mine will work, and you could do similar to mine if you want, it wasn't hard to do.
The CV frame is made for a 4.6 and they are wider than a 5.0 so space shouldn't be a problem, but if you mount your engine down close to the CV frame, you might want to be sure of space for the style of header you put on, just due to the CV steering shaft being somewhat close. I have plenty of space with engine on stock perches almost in the F100 position, and I have the Mustang double hump oil pan with a ton of clearance. I could lower engine 2 inches if I wanted to swap mounts. Just something to think about. Once axle is in, just set engine in where you think you want it and take a look around, should be plenty of space, just make sure before nailing it down.
Don't stress about the axle swap, you will find this to be a fun project I think. I was nervous about doing it too, but once I saw how easy things go, once the original junk was out and frame clean, it was stress free from there. I will get a few pictures today(hopefully).
This is the beast the day I drove it home. $950 cash, new brakes and a loose wheel, lol
Before surgery
disassembly has begun!
CV spacers welded in
getting ready for a final test fit
Boxed frame at the axle mount area, cleaned up and painted frame with some rattle can rust paint, I think duplicolor, don't buy it, no good! Will be painting whole frame with something better before engine is in
Axle mounted, I didn't take a before measurement but it will drop the truck easily 4 inches if not 5. Plan to lower rear all I can without a frame notch
Get a couple of these step drills from harbor fright if you don't have any. I haven't used step drills before and I have to say I was really impressed how well it plows through the frame. They are cheap, I broke one before it was worn out, it got caught and snapped the bit clean off. If i didn't break it I could have done the whole job with one. Just wear glasses , glasses and long sleeves while you are drilling the bottom, the shavings are hot!!
No problem! What I did to line up the axle was use the pins on the CV frame, I measured the heck out of those to be sure the axle was straight in the frame. I drilled those out first, and after I did, I put axle up to frame and marked the bottom holes with a marker. It made it involve less second guessing myself! Just mark the hole and remove axle and drill it. I used a square to mark the top holes and I cut those out with a torch, although a hole saw would make a nicer hole. you end up welding in the tubes anyway so it comes out just fine either way you do it.
Hopefully I will get my engine and trans in this week and get the nose back on. I think the inner fenders will need a trim to make room for the CV frames top brackets.
I know this thread is a few months old, but i am undecided on the stock position or 1 inch fwd position. anyhow a good way of measuring is to remove the grease (zerk) fittings from the top of the king pins. Lay a string across your tires and use a carpenters level standing on end at the center of the king pin. do this for each side over and over until you have a constant line. mine came out to roughly 14 inches on both sides from the next fwd hole in the frame rails.
