I got the truck a few weeks ago and it ran great, but was hard to start. Changed glow plugs and that fixed the problem. Since I got it, it would Idle a little bumpy for the first few seconds, then clear up and run perfectly. It had a pretty severe lack of maintenance, so I've replaced a lot. I fixed an air leak on filter assembly and filter as well.

Picked it up from getting new tires and alignment yesterday and noticed that it smokes on startup a lot more now and the bumpy idle take a couple minutes to clear up.

If I give it some throttle, all the issues go away and it runs great, it's just at idle. I'm thinking/hoping it's a fuel related issue.

Where should I start? I'll try to get a video soon.

Thanks for the help!

 

junior grade member here so take this information as such, just wanted to get you some reply,

I think I would hook up a gas can and bypass everything to see if the problem duplicates, at least then you would know it was injection pump forward or supply problem and start working your way backwards to the tank,

 

I'll take what I can get! A friend told me, immediately after explaining symptoms, it's my injection pump and/or injectors. Not sure the best way to test that though. Expensive guess!

 

Don't jump straight to pump & injectors, troubleshoot the basics first.

Is the high idle/advance kicking on? (By pressing the pedal down once before cranking) It should idle highed and have more of a "clack" like a Powerstroke until it warms up and kicks down to low idle.

 

I don't know what that is, so it's probably not doing it. Lol

So I just completely depress the pedal once while wait to start is illuminated?

If it's missing bad at idle when I first started it, a TINY bit of throttle corrects it. I basically just have to rest my foot on the pedal and it corrects issues. When it's cold, it idles great.

 

Update: high idle either didn't help or didn't work. I did notice a pretty good leak from rear passenger side exhaust manifold. Think that could do it?

 

Turn your key on, and while the "Glow Plug / Wait to Start" light is on, press down fully on the fuel pedal once. That will set the high idle/advance (if it's working properly). If it isn't, it will smoke and stumble until you hold the pedal a bit to raise the engine speed, where it will smooth right out.

I recently had the fusible link blow in my truck that controlled the fuel and high idle, I ran a jumper for the fuel but with the high idle/advance out it was a chugging ******* until I held the pedal into the 800 rpm range, then smoothes out when warmed up.

Buy a simple test light (like $3-5 at any auto parts store) or cheap multimeter if you don't think you're getting high idle, and we can go from there.

 

Great info. Let me know how to troubleshoot. I have most beginning and intermediate level tools including electrical testers of all sorts.

Let me know where I should start. I'd like to test to see if this high idle setup is functioning. The high idle is either not working, or working and it doesnt change my problem at all.

 

There are 3 electrical connections on your Injection pump. Going from front to rear, there's the high idle solenoid (front passenger side of IP), the Fuel shutoff solenoid (FSS) in the center (with connection on the driver side), and rear-most at the top is the timing advance. High idle/advance is fed from the coolant temp sensor that's just passenger side of the IP housing with a couple of wires going through it.

Turn the key to the "on" position where the radio will run, hit the fuel pedal once, and pull each wire for your high idle and advance and see if the solenoid clicks. If they don't, check with your meter or light that they're getting battery voltage to determine if it's a solenoid problem or an electrical feed problem., and post back with the results.

 

This problem happens when the engine is both hot and cold. This fix seems like it might address a cold start issue. I can't imagine it was designed to be used for every startup, with that said, if it fixes it, I'll run it like that to avoid a costly repair to a glorified wood truck!

Tomorrow, I'll test to see if I have any voltage at the high idle unit, I think I identified it. Might even raise idle slightly as a temp fix.

If I end up needing the IP, I'll do that. I'm just trying to keep the cost down as much as possible.

 

How long does the high idle + side stay charged after pressing pedal? Do I need to run? Lol

 

Basically the cold idle comes back on if you're just running around town and not running it up to temp all day long. That's the reason i bypassed my GP controller for a push button, and a manual switch to shut off high idle after I have full oil pressure or good heat in the winter. I got sick of the GPs cycling every time I started the truck to go get some groceries or a case of beer down the road.

If you're running it up to temp, and still having a rough start after sitting, it may be a air intrusion issue, or a couple of bad glow plugs. What brand of GPs did you put in it?

 

I put in Motorcraft GP's.

I was thinking about doing the return line kit for the injectors, is that a good place to start? I fixed an air leak on the filter housing, I will look around again for any fuel leaks.

Next step is fixing that exhaust leak though, it's pretty bad! Will I have good luck accessing it without removing the inner fender? Looks like I'll have enough space.