Ok so a about a month or so ago I had a bad injector so I changed it out. A about a week or so ago truck started acting up and gave me a egr valve code. And running really bad etc. So I pulled the valve out and it was very damp and gooey residue. Decided to change egr cooler, oil cooler also had to replace the back injector on the driver's side due to a bad connector on the injector so I swapped it out. That was last Sunday. Truck was still running like ****. I had to drive it on Mon and Tuesday to work, I had to get ready for a big concrete pour no way I could miss work as I am the forman. So was going to take the truck to the shop for a diagnosis on which injector I needed to change. Well down the street from my house the truck shut down while driving and gave me a gpcm code. Also would not crank ( the engine would not turn over at all just made a clunk noise). After a bit I was able to get it to crank and a big puff of white smoke came out. Checked the batteries and one had acid on top of it so I have new batteries on it now. Still now go . So I am getting a new starter this morning and see it will crank. . Then start over again with testing. So are the chances that I'm hydro locked pretty good? Did some research and I am going to pull the glow plugs and see if I get fluid shooting out. Any tips on pulling the harness out and the plugs. When I go to test to see which cylinder shoots fluid out should I pull the glow plugs on both sides and test or do one side at a time?

 

I think that might be the general consensus among some other posters here if they read the previous threads.
Fuel will come out with some force if that is the case, so don't be looking down directly in that area.
I'm betting it's the one that had the contribution code, what did you end up using for an injector?

 

So should I pull one side glow plugs test if no fluid comes out on that side then pull the other side plugs, or just pull both sides and test? As far as the injector I replaced both were from Napa. Cash is supper tight. I live pay check to pay check. So my buddy at napa warranted them for me. I know I should get for but I just have no money right now and I'm missing work over all this to make it even worse

 

Glow plug removal video.


Just realize that in late 04 the glow plug was made shorter due to a design change in the piston. DTR states in the video (at about 3:30 in with a written note at the bottom of the screen) that the early glow plug is shorter. It was in fact the later one that was made shorter.

See page 10 or 12 in the coffee table book:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...ble%20Book.pdf

 

So do I pull both side plugs at the same time and run the test or do one side at a time?

 

Do you have an injector contribution code?

If so, I would pull the plugs on the side with the injector code. Then I would turn it over by hand instead of using the starter. If you don't see any fuel coming out or if it won't turn over by hand, then pull the other side. If you want to use the starter, then I would pull both sides before cranking.

 

I have not gotten any contribution codes. I do have the p0098 for the intake temp sensor. Very possible that the sensor pig tail need to be replaced due to chafed wire.

 

 

 

Ok I will try this out once I get the new starter in

 

How do I turn it by hand? I know I go to the main crank pulley what size bolt is it and from looking at it it's very tight do I have to take the fan shroud off?? And I turn clockwise

 

Also what is the best way to get a broken glow plugs connector out???

 

Try a sheet rock screw, but lube the heck out of it before you try to twist it out whilst grabbing with a pliers or visegrip

 

Ok. What's the best way to crank the motor by hand?

 

Put truck in neutral.
Put emergency brake on
Put a socket on a breaker bar or ratchet (with an extension) and use one of the 4 harmonic balancer bolts - can't recall the size .... maybe 18 mm
Rotate it clockwise so as not to loosen the bolt

Edit - I just noticed an old thread in my spreadsheet ......

Cheezit uses a metal bar with 2 bolts in it that will grab the balancer

ALSO - if you don't want to keep putting fuel in the cylinder when you turn the key on, unplug the power wire plug to the fuel pump.