Battery Light on, stumped...
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
the wire you have no voltage on has nothing to do with the key circuts. that wire comes from the battery and is hot all the time. the fuse able links should be on starter relay on the pass fender. you need a test light. or you could back trace the o/lb
wire all the way back to the solenoid.
wire all the way back to the solenoid.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
the wire you have no voltage on has nothing to do with the key circuts. that wire comes from the battery and is hot all the time. the fuse able links should be on starter relay on the pass fender. you need a test light. or you could back trace the o/lb
wire all the way back to the solenoid.
wire all the way back to the solenoid.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
was plowing . all day... just get a good test light and probe after the link. check each one. you'll find it. I think they are Grey.. wire color does change but they all might be the same at that point.
can't find a diagram for an 02
can't find a diagram for an 02
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
I found this diagram and have been following it. Still stumped because the orange/blue is dead, but my batteries are definitely charging. Doesn't the orange/blue wire tell the alternator to send charge to the batteries? If it doesnt have power, shouldn't they be dying/dead by now? Been driving like this for a week and the battery terminal reads 14.4 while running???
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
That wire feeds the regulator and light circut..14.4 volts is perfect and normal. Did you find the fuse links attached to the solenoid? Did you get a sharp test light and probe the downside of each?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
Sorry ... late to the party. Click on the "bad regulator wire" link in my signature. It may help.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
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Same exact scenario as me. I gaurentee this will fix it. So to be clear, run the new wire to fuse 6? Or did I miss something? Been hunting for an answer and this seems to be the only logical explanation. Very much appreciated sir!
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
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I replaced the pig tail for the hell of it. Still have the battery light. Truck still starts, runs, drives like a champ. No power to the orange/blue wire. No idea whats going on here. Should i run a new wire with a fuse to the battery to the orange/blue on the pig tail and see what happens??
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
Let me state up front I am in no way remotely competent with electrickity. Not my wheelhouse. However, if I understood what you did, you replaced the snap-in connector at the alternator? If so, this will not fix the problem IF there is a break/short in the wire between the connector and the fuse box. You have two choices:
1) Track and check the entire orange/blue wire through the entire loom, including the run through the undercover valve harness (UCVH) right back to the fuse box to see if you can find a break, chafing or anything else that may be causing a short condition. This will likely take you several hours as it is a very busy and crowded loom.
2) Your second option is to simply replace the orange/blue wire with a new one from the alternator (regulator wire) back to the fuse box. On mine, we ran a separate, small diameter "loom" that bypassed the UCVH and went directly from the alternator to the fuse box. I do not recall them putting an inline fuse in as the replacement wire was connected back into the fuse box slot where the original orange/blue wire came from.
1) Track and check the entire orange/blue wire through the entire loom, including the run through the undercover valve harness (UCVH) right back to the fuse box to see if you can find a break, chafing or anything else that may be causing a short condition. This will likely take you several hours as it is a very busy and crowded loom.
2) Your second option is to simply replace the orange/blue wire with a new one from the alternator (regulator wire) back to the fuse box. On mine, we ran a separate, small diameter "loom" that bypassed the UCVH and went directly from the alternator to the fuse box. I do not recall them putting an inline fuse in as the replacement wire was connected back into the fuse box slot where the original orange/blue wire came from.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Let me state up front I am in no way remotely competent with electrickity. Not my wheelhouse. However, if I understood what you did, you replaced the snap-in connector at the alternator? If so, this will not fix the problem IF there is a break/short in the wire between the connector and the fuse box. You have two choices:
1) Track and check the entire orange/blue wire through the entire loom, including the run through the undercover valve harness (UCVH) right back to the fuse box to see if you can find a break, chafing or anything else that may be causing a short condition. This will likely take you several hours as it is a very busy and crowded loom.
2) Your second option is to simply replace the orange/blue wire with a new one from the alternator (regulator wire) back to the fuse box. On mine, we ran a separate, small diameter "loom" that bypassed the UCVH and went directly from the alternator to the fuse box. I do not recall them putting an inline fuse in as the replacement wire was connected back into the fuse box slot where the original orange/blue wire came from.
1) Track and check the entire orange/blue wire through the entire loom, including the run through the undercover valve harness (UCVH) right back to the fuse box to see if you can find a break, chafing or anything else that may be causing a short condition. This will likely take you several hours as it is a very busy and crowded loom.
2) Your second option is to simply replace the orange/blue wire with a new one from the alternator (regulator wire) back to the fuse box. On mine, we ran a separate, small diameter "loom" that bypassed the UCVH and went directly from the alternator to the fuse box. I do not recall them putting an inline fuse in as the replacement wire was connected back into the fuse box slot where the original orange/blue wire came from.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
Looking inside the fuse panel, the #5 & #7 slots are 5 amp mini fuses and the #6 is a 10 amp mini fuse. Going by memory, I believe it was either the #5 or #7 spot the replacement wire for the regulator (original orange/blue wire) was run. The fuse panel needed to be loosened from its bracket in order to easily get to work on the underside of it where all of the the wires went in from the wiring loom which travels along and down the firewall to this box.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
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mmmm ... I believe it was still orange/blue at the fuse panel (labeled as the Power Distribution Box) and on my truck, the actual fuse panel is located under the hood, on the drivers side towards the firewall and left front fender corner. I understand this fuse panel could be located inside the cab on other model years (mine is a 2001).
Looking inside the fuse panel, the #5 & #7 slots are 5 amp mini fuses and the #6 is a 10 amp mini fuse. Going by memory, I believe it was either the #5 or #7 spot the replacement wire for the regulator (original orange/blue wire) was run. The fuse panel needed to be loosened from its bracket in order to easily get to work on the underside of it where all of the the wires went in from the wiring loom which travels along and down the firewall to this box.
Looking inside the fuse panel, the #5 & #7 slots are 5 amp mini fuses and the #6 is a 10 amp mini fuse. Going by memory, I believe it was either the #5 or #7 spot the replacement wire for the regulator (original orange/blue wire) was run. The fuse panel needed to be loosened from its bracket in order to easily get to work on the underside of it where all of the the wires went in from the wiring loom which travels along and down the firewall to this box.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
Need Someone With a 2002 To Chime In Here - Electrical Box?
Wow, I went through your schematics and I think you're right (remember I'm way outside of my comfort zone here). However, the logical answer is ... you have another fuse panel somewhere with a bunch of stuff including the "generator" fuses. Can you trace the wiring loom(s) to see where they might end up?
Maybe one of the folks with a 2002 model year will see this and chime in.
Maybe one of the folks with a 2002 model year will see this and chime in.