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Ya I posted a pic above. There is no big black box in my engine compartment anywhere. Just those five, what look to be relays. Fuse box is under steering wheel in dash for me...
Hello. I'm curious... you said the battery voltages were ok. Does that mean you checked the voltages across the battery terminals with the engine running? Or with the engine not running? I watched part of the video and it seemed the guy was pretty knowledgeable, but I didn't see him do that simple initial test, other than showing scan gauge voltages, unless I missed something (entirely possible). A simple, quick way to see if the batteries themselves are actually being charged or not is to check the voltage across both batteries individually, directly across the terminals with the engine running with your multimeter. Good charging voltage should be in the range of about 13.5 to 14 "ish" volts, usually around 14. And, as the guy in the video mentioned plenty of times, a good battery that is NOT being charged or drained should be close to 12.6 "ish". Making this simple test initially is a quick way to steer the troubleshooter in one direction or another and also to gauge how pressing the issue actually is (how likely are you to get stranded somewhere). If the batteries aren't being charged, then either the alternator isn't working for whatever reason...bad alternator, control system, or wiring...or the alternator IS working but the charging voltage isn't reaching the batteries because of bad wiring, blown fuses, etc. If the batteries ARE being charged properly but the light is still on, then I would wonder if the problem is with the battery light sensing circuit in some way. These are just general electrical troubleshooting procedures, I don't claim to have any model specific knowledge of your truck.
Hello. I'm curious... you said the battery voltages were ok. Does that mean you checked the voltages across the battery terminals with the engine running? Or with the engine not running? I watched part of the video and it seemed the guy was pretty knowledgeable, but I didn't see him do that simple initial test, other than showing scan gauge voltages, unless I missed something (entirely possible). A simple, quick way to see if the batteries themselves are actually being charged or not is to check the voltage across both batteries individually, directly across the terminals with the engine running with your multimeter. Good charging voltage should be in the range of about 13.5 to 14 "ish" volts, usually around 14. And, as the guy in the video mentioned plenty of times, a good battery that is NOT being charged or drained should be close to 12.6 "ish". Making this simple test initially is a quick way to steer the troubleshooter in one direction or another and also to gauge how pressing the issue actually is (how likely are you to get stranded somewhere). If the batteries aren't being charged, then either the alternator isn't working for whatever reason...bad alternator, control system, or wiring...or the alternator IS working but the charging voltage isn't reaching the batteries because of bad wiring, blown fuses, etc. If the batteries ARE being charged properly but the light is still on, then I would wonder if the problem is with the battery light sensing circuit in some way. These are just general electrical troubleshooting procedures, I don't claim to have any model specific knowledge of your truck.
I did not check the batteries while the engine was running because they both read 13.3 with the motor off. Therefore I assumed they were being charged properly and the issue lies solely on the battery light circuit. Which lead me to the fusible link being bad after testing it and getting 0v in any key position for orange/blue. I checked the fuse in the dash fuse panel for the ignition circuit and it looked OK. Hence why I am stumped. Orange/blue = 0v, everything is charged, green/red reads 12.xv with key on, 0v key off. Only think left is fusible link, right? Also note the motor seems to start fine and all electronics/lights appear to be functional.
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