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2) dumb question, but once bled in vice, when I remove plastic nozzles isn’t the fluid going to just pour out of holes as I try to thread fittings back in?
finger tight should work fine ..... after bench bleeding you can plug the ports to stop the fluid from leaking out while you get ready to install your lines.
i'll be running a residual valve for the rear drums and a proportioning valve: what is the ideal order of install for these items inline? prop valve followed by residual, or residual valve ahead of the prop valve?
Yep, no need for a residual valve with a firewall mount master. A residual valve is only needed
when the master is down on the frame below the wheel cylinders and calipers
hmmm, well i already own it now, based on the info at Speedway Motors:
"Drum brakes will always require a 10psi residual valve regardless of the master cylinder mounting position."
any pix of your MC / prop valve mounting setups? i've seen lots of curly Q brake lines — need to figure out my layout (bending / flaring my own lines).
Here is a couple pics of mine. I have 4 wheel disc. I tried using the copper/nickel tubing and flaring them myself, but that didn't go to well. Ended up having 4 of the flares leaking. Probably from my cheap azz flaring tool. So I ended up tearing it all out. I bought a brake line kit from speedway that has preflared lines in different lengths. The hard part for me,was figuring what way to route the lines, so I ended up with the right length. So I wouldn't have to cut & flare.
Last edited by avf100; Mar 6, 2018 at 01:49 PM.
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