360 carb issue
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 46
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From: Valdosta, Georgia
360 carb issue
So I rebuilt my 2100, it would only run with the choke on. Now after using the rebuild kit, I'm getting black smoke, and no idle. I've adjusted both screws in and out at the carb base, no luck. It'll fire up and smoke like hell if I put my foot on the gas. The second I take it off, it does.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Methinks there's an issue with a correct rebuild since the mixture screws don't work, smokes more than I do,and wants to croak at (?) idle. Have you touched/unhooked/moved any wires, vacuum lnes, etc, during removal and install?
Mixture screws and corresponding circuit clean?
All the holes in the gasket seating the cover plate lined up correctly?
Accelerator pump diaphragm installed correctly and adjusted right?
How about the float level setting?
Power valve and its gasket in good shape?......If you have a blown power valve she'll run extremely "rich" with a bucket full of unburnt hydrocarbons sneakin' out the exhaust....
Manual or electric choke?
Mixture screws and corresponding circuit clean?
All the holes in the gasket seating the cover plate lined up correctly?
Accelerator pump diaphragm installed correctly and adjusted right?
How about the float level setting?
Power valve and its gasket in good shape?......If you have a blown power valve she'll run extremely "rich" with a bucket full of unburnt hydrocarbons sneakin' out the exhaust....
Manual or electric choke?
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Valdosta, Georgia
It has a manual choke. I put a small metal bb that came with the rebuild kit, into a hole near the jets. I can't recall exactly what the rebuild kit called it, but when I initially took the carb apart it didn't have one in there. It was also supposed to have a little cylinder between the bb and the vent/ screw thing.
After removing the bb, the truck is now running. It's a tad rough still after a ton of adjusting, but it'll run with no choke now. So that's a plus, but it's eye watering rich... so I dunno.
After removing the bb, the truck is now running. It's a tad rough still after a ton of adjusting, but it'll run with no choke now. So that's a plus, but it's eye watering rich... so I dunno.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Valdosta, Georgia
Everything else you mentioned is functioning properly. The gaskets and all seemed decent before the rebuild. One was backwards, but when I rebuilt the carb, I replaced everything properly. The float is set and functioning properly, along with the accelerator pump. I'm assuming the "power valve" is also known as an economizer valve, and is located on the bottom of the bowl? If so, that was replaced as well. So I'm clueless. Unless it has to do with that bb assembly thing not being in there, in which case, I'd need the specs on that metal cylinder to put on top of the bb.
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From: Long Island USA
While it's running or even cranking (which might be safer), look down the throat of the carb and see if gas is pouring out the fuel bowl vent.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
"Eye watering rich" is a sign of a blown power valve....either the gasket or the P/V itself.
I've never heard a power valve called an "economizer valve" but I've been wrong before.
The P/V is located in front of the mixture screws....has four screws on the cover that holds it in place.
That "BB" is a check ball and is located under a little rod (your "cylinder"?) in/below the venturi assembly. A single screw holds it in place.
That's the only "BB" in these carbs. Hopefully you're not missing any of these dealies....?
I've never heard a power valve called an "economizer valve" but I've been wrong before.
The P/V is located in front of the mixture screws....has four screws on the cover that holds it in place.
That "BB" is a check ball and is located under a little rod (your "cylinder"?) in/below the venturi assembly. A single screw holds it in place.
That's the only "BB" in these carbs. Hopefully you're not missing any of these dealies....?
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Valdosta, Georgia
Yeah, well I replaced the power valve, I can try putting the old one back in and see if that helps.
Yeah, I'm missing that rod. What exactly does that's bb and rod do? It's never been in my truck before.
Yeah, I'm missing that rod. What exactly does that's bb and rod do? It's never been in my truck before.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Apply suction to the diaphragm to see if it holds vacuum. If not, replace.
The Autolite 2100 and 2150 are pretty much the same....you sure you have a 2100?
*****Some verbiage taken from Bubba's site.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
See 9A565 in upper pic.
Lower pic: I posted the wrong pic initially and with FTE's new format, I cannot delete it.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
5th Wheeling
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hello guys,
just rebuilt my MC2100 carb and did a complete tune up on my 69'f350 w/390 could not get the jets out of the bottom of the carb too many years of bi-metal corrosion I guess. my question is; how do I adjust the dwell? I have the points @ .019 my book says dwell @ 24-29 and I cannot figure out how to get it below 42 without throwing my gap out of adjust. there is a slot/hole at both ends off the point plate I thought thee back one would change the dwell but at both extremes it does not change while keeping the gap @ .019
69/ F-350, 78/F-150, 79/ F-600, 95/ F-250xlt
just rebuilt my MC2100 carb and did a complete tune up on my 69'f350 w/390 could not get the jets out of the bottom of the carb too many years of bi-metal corrosion I guess. my question is; how do I adjust the dwell? I have the points @ .019 my book says dwell @ 24-29 and I cannot figure out how to get it below 42 without throwing my gap out of adjust. there is a slot/hole at both ends off the point plate I thought thee back one would change the dwell but at both extremes it does not change while keeping the gap @ .019
69/ F-350, 78/F-150, 79/ F-600, 95/ F-250xlt
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
The dwell time as measured by the meter is what counts, disregard the resulting point gap when using a dwell meter. Using a feeler gauge is basically just a way to get the engine to start, so the dwell can be set.
Ford mentioned in the shop manuals that once a set of points has "run in" for a time a dwell meter is the only acceptable way to adjust points. The reason is because point surfaces start to wear unevenly with use, a flat feeler gauge isn't accurate except with brand new points. So Sayeth Henry, anyway.
It won't matter too much if you're just bombing around the back 40 but for accuracy setting the dwell using a meter is far superior. Keep in mind If the distributor has a lot of wear e.g. bushings and distributor shaft, gear backlash it will be impossible to set the points accurately regardless.
For stuck jets, try some heat from a torch.
Ford mentioned in the shop manuals that once a set of points has "run in" for a time a dwell meter is the only acceptable way to adjust points. The reason is because point surfaces start to wear unevenly with use, a flat feeler gauge isn't accurate except with brand new points. So Sayeth Henry, anyway.
It won't matter too much if you're just bombing around the back 40 but for accuracy setting the dwell using a meter is far superior. Keep in mind If the distributor has a lot of wear e.g. bushings and distributor shaft, gear backlash it will be impossible to set the points accurately regardless.
For stuck jets, try some heat from a torch.