Hi guys!
Just registered as a new user, but have been using this site for about a year to figure out issues with my truck (been very helpful so far). So to begin, my truck is a 94 f150 xlt, 5.0, E4od, 4x4, 8.8 rearend, with h9 (3.55 LS yes?). I've had the truck about 4 years, has 152k mi. When I bought it, when shifting into OD under mild acceleration there was a slight shudder. Dropped the tranny pan, changed the fluid and filter (did not do a flush, or drain torque converter) and shudder went away. Thought nothing of it. Speedometer would also bounce A LOT after hitting about 55mph, going from 80 to 40 nonstop (yes, A LOT). But I never really cared about that. Eventually I started having shifting issues, when holding the gas pedal in same position, it felt like it would slip into neutral, rev up to about 4 grand, and I'd let off the throttle as soon as I noticed, it would wind down and shift back into gear. Then the issue would disappear for weeks, or even months and I'd forget about it. I read here that a bad speed sensor could cause these issues, replaced it (with the cheap oreilly brand) and issues seemed to go away, speedometer seemed more stable, but not perfect. Speedometer issues have come back, and tranny issues seem more persistent. Bought a code reader, KOEO test indicated running lean, replaced the O2 sensor and fixed that issue (much better acceleration now). Performed KOER test with no codes. Also did the cylinder balance test, everything comes back clean. Bought a new speed sensor today (truck has had no shifting issues for about 3 days, but as always it comes and goes) replaced it and took it on the highway. Speedometer held steady at speeds up to 75mph (as far as I took it). Drove down some slower back roads, everything's fine. Then felt it slip once, in about half an hour after getting off freeway. My next step is to drop the transmission pan, and check the filter, maybe it slipped loose? Is there anything I can check on the shift solenoid while I'm in there? Checking fluid level, everything is good, and still looks clean red after 4yrs. Are there any tests I can do to check for a bad torque converter? I've also looked for transmissions online, and was wondering if anyone has used carmonkeys.com? They sell an E4od for just under $1100 (if that ends up being the route I have to take.). Thanks for any help! I'm a little new to wrenching on trucks, but I love it so far and the truck has a some sentimental value to me, so I just want to get it running the way it should.

 

Check codes again just to be sure but it sounds like a slipping 4th gear or torque converter. There are some inputs to the engine computer that can cause the converter to unlock unintentionally but first thing I would check is the brake light switch, make sure it's not stuck on. The torque converter will not lock if the brake light switch is on/stuck.

Edit: what was the condition of the fluid when you drained it?

 

Thank you! I will check codes again in the morning to see if new speed sensor changes anything. When I changed fluid (roughly 3.5 yrs ago, approximately 25k miles ago) fluid seemed like it was due for a change, don't exactly remember what it looked like, but I do remember checking the magnet in pan and not finding any bigger chunks. Some fine metal shavings on magnet. But to be honest I bough it at 125k mi and I doubt that the previous owner had ever changed the fluid (hence not wanting to do a flush, I hear that can cause big issues if it hasn't been performed at lower mileage). I have a bad feeling that you're right on the torque converter, occasionally feel that "rough road" under light acceleration in the 30-45mph range, although it's not a 4th issue. Used to slip at highway speeds, but now I feel that slip at random times. Sometimes pulling away from a stop sign. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all for days or weeks. The break lights have always seemed to work fine, pedals on lights are on/pedals off lights are off. Is there another test I should do on brake lights? Not sure if this would be related, but I had the shifter cable replaced about three years ago. The indicator on the dash seems to be slightly off, not exactly in the middle of the gear selected. I gave the neutral safety switch they ol' eyeball test, and it seemed to be lined up. Is there a way to check this more accurately? After the cable was replaced, although the indicator on the dash didn't seem to exactly line up with gear selected, I had no problems with shifting while driving. From park, with brakes on, I don't feel any hard shifts when moving lever through all gears (giving a few seconds between each gear). Thank you again for any help, and forgive me if I'm not replying correctly, still trying to get used to the site layout.

 

Gear indicator in dash is independent of the TRS. The indicator has a cable that is attached to the gear lever. There is a little nut that can be turned to adjust the indicator needle.

 

That's not true, it's an old internet myth that won't die. A flush will NOT hurt a good transmission, but on the other hand, it won't fix a broken transmission. And many people do flush a high mileage trans that has had a major internal failure, hoping that the problem is just old fluid. That isn't the problem and the trans fails. Not because of the flush, but because of the failed internal part.

The torque converter isn't causing that.

That could be a loose/missing filter, low trans fluid, or a damaged forward clutch. There is NOTHING electrical that can cause a slip pulling away from a stop sign.

 

Are you sure you have an E4OD?
To some of the things you said above point more to a 4R70W transmission.
What is the letter under TRANS on the door sticker?
Just trying to make sure you do not order the wrong transmission.

 

If you've replaced the speed sensor multiple times with no improvement I wager that putting yet another on won't do any good. Mark had a good point, if it 'slips' pulling away from a stop it's possible the fluid isn't getting up to the pump, could be the filter gasket not seating correctly or low fluid level.

 

God Forbid -- it's that world famous screw up called the E40D (L6s and V8s that year came so equipped, notably the 4x4). 4r70w was also used that year and it's a much better transmission.

I would not get one from a junk yard, nor from anyone with "monkey" (e.g. Gas Monkey, Car Monkeys) in their name; rather, have reputable rebuilder take yours, fix the known / well documented E4OD issues and incorporate some of the newer 4R100 parts in it .

That trans will deliver, last you a very long time.

 

Aye, a built E4OD is a good for life.

 

D'oh! So when I changed the pan gasket and filter a few years back, the parts store asked how many bolts in the pan. 14. "That's the E4od here's the gasket and filter". Went back and replaced them and everything was the same, gasket fit right. After your comment I decided to check the door tag and transmission code is U, 4r70w. Then I thought maybe the trans had been replaced, counted bolts on pan and compared to other threads on here. Yep, I have the 4r70w. Apparently what the parts counter meant was "that's NOT the E4od". My own fault for not checking the tag myself though.

I have checked fluid multiple times, it is right in the middle of the cross-hatches, and clean.

It has also always had a hard shift from first to second.

Didn't have time to drop the pan today, but will try tomorrow to see if the filter has come loose.

Thanks again for everybody's input! As I said I'm fairly new to working on this truck, so everybody's input is greatly appreciated.

 

Note on the 4R70W I think it shifts on the OSS and not the VSS on the rear end.
I drove my 4R70W for a week with no speedometer or odometer and it shifted just fine until I replaced the PSOM.
The PSOM may have been passing the information on to the PCM without operating the speedometer or odometer but do not think it was.

 

so i dropped the pan today, changed the filter and gasket. a few things i noticed:

when taking out the bolts that hold the transmission pan (this was as much of a pain as i remember, don't attempt w/o a ratcheting box-end 10mm for those back two bolts between trans and crossmember support), i was holding the pan with one hand and removing bolts with the other hand. as my arm would get tired, the pan would lower; when i noticed i'd lift the pan back up and felt a small "clunk". i'm thinking maybe that was the filter pickup hitting the bottom of the pan (this was heard slightly before the pan was back to touching the gasket). maybe the filter came a little loose, and that pickup was being blocked? filter didn't just drop right out, took some wiggling, seemed fairly secure in it's place. but maybe it dropped low enough to block that pickup.

fluid color looked good, didn't smell burnt. bottom of the pan seemed clean. but the magnet was covered in small shavings, and with the trans fluid felt more like a sludge. i checked the drain pan i used, and there was some grit left after the fluid had drained in. i'm not sure what constitutes "big" chunks here. these were small enough that it kind of felt like sand. but maybe that's big enough for concern?

i checked the electrical connections in there (i'm not sure what they are) and everything seemed secure. put a finger in where the filter goes to make sure that an old o-ring wasn't left in there that might keep the filter from seating right. replaced with new filter, and pan gasket. put three qts mercv in there, warmed up the truck and checked level. added some more fluid. total added just shy of 5 qts.to get it into the crosshatches. shifted through each gear while holding break, giving about 5 seconds between gears. no hard shifts, nothing to notice. i only drove it about 30 miles tonight, and so far it seems to be working fine. but again, any of the slips i felt were intermittent problems. i've got my fingers crossed that the filter dropped just enough for that pickup valve to be sitting on the bottom of the pan, and i've fixed it. i didn't notice any big improvements in shifting tonight. most roads i drove tonight were around 50mph, just enough to get into OD. it does seem a little more responsive shifting from OD down to 3rd when going up a small hill, but maybe i'm just being too hopeful.

i'll post back after a few more miles to see if this has fixed my problem. fingers crossed!

 

That's normal wear, not a concern at all.