Hi I have a 2003 e250. It's been a company truck it's whole life. I've probably owned it 11-12 years. It has aprx115k on it now. It runs good but it's rusty. It sat for 18 months and 2 weeks after being put back in service the rear break line failed. I crimped the line with vice grips to limp it home. In the process I disturbed rust on the line next to it causing it to leak too.
I don't want to put too much time into it. So I asked about break lines at the local hydraulic line shop. Fellow there said about $60 per line. I need two from the break booster to the rear axle. I know this will work but I'm sure there are cons to this. I appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks, B

 

Ok I found a bit of info on the rubber lines. Sounds like the drawback is the breaks won't feel like factory. They could feel spongy. The van isn't used to tow. Before it was parked we put new breaks all the way around. And new tires.

Has anyone replaced a significant amount of break lines with rubber lines? I am curious if anyone has any experience with this.

Thanks, B

 

do not endanger your life and everyone elses on the road by using rubber line because it would be easier. you can buy the metal lines a tubing cutter and bender and flair tool cheaper than the lines you suggest. you already have the old lines to match the bends to. and you cannot bypass the proportioning valve in the line to the rear breaks either. do this right or you will regret it fast.

 

You do not want to replace factory hard line with rubber hose. You either need replace or have the hard lines replaced with new ones.


Ok are you ready for a novel?


This can be done in a few different ways.

1. Buy sections of hard line from the auto parts store. These come with the fittings on them and they are already flared. This is a way to do it if you don't have the tools to make them yourself. The problem with doing it this way is you won't have a large selection in the lengths available. You most likely won't be able to get a single one long enough. So you will need to use multiple pieces and use unions. The more unions/connections you have the higher the chance of a leak. The other down side is when you need a shorter section. You'll get stuck with one that's too long and will have to do some creative bending/coiling to fit it on your van.

2. Buy some of the cheaper tools and some bulk line and fittings and make your own lines. The cheaper double flaring kits can be hard to get a good flare that will seal. You may end up flaring the end of the line multiple times until you get it right.

Here's an example of the tool I'm referring to:
It includes the double flaring kit and the line cutter. With some practice and watching a few you tube video's you should be able to make up the lines.



There are more expensive tools that do a good job of flaring and makes it much easier to get them right. But these will cost $200-$500. And unless you are going to be doing this on a bunch of vehicles it just won't be worth it for you.


For the line itself I like to use what's called Nicopp. It's a copper nickel alloy. It's easy to cut, bend and flare. And it doesn't rust. I've been using it on all my vehicles for two or three years now. regular steel line is cheaper but it will rust again. And stay away from stainless steel line. It's harder to work with, requires a different flaring process and fittings.

If you are going to try this your self I would buy a couple 25' rolls of the Nicopp tubing. I believe your van would take 3/16". But double check that so you get the right stuff.

And I would also grab a couple fitting kits. They come with an assortment of fittings. A lot of vehicles have more then one size fitting on their lines. So it's nice to have an assortment. You may be able to reuse some of your old ones. But if your lines are rusted there's a good chance you'll round off a your old fittings.

You will also want to get a set of flare nut wrenches for removing and installing the lines on the vehicle. They are less likely to round off the fittings compared to an open end wrench.


If you are going to do this only remove one of the old lines at a time. You don't want to mix up the lines. And it's not a bad idea to take pictures of all the old lines where they run and hook up before you pull them. Use the old lines for patterns for the new lines ( for the length and bends ) .

And if you are going to try and flare your own lines. Make sure to put the fitting on the line before you flare it. Nothing makes you feel stupid like discovering there's no fitting on the line after you complete the flare. I've done this more then once.


Also make sure to check over all your hard brake lines. If you have one or two that are rusted thru then it's very likely the rest aren't far behind.

 

 

I've been using that old style flaring tool ( like I posted the link for ) for around 30 years. And I still sometimes end up having to flare the tubing multiple times to get a good double flare. But like I said it can be done, even though it's a pain.

Now a year or two ago I bit the bullet and bought one the of Eastwood tool flaring tools. I hate buying stuff from them. Their website ordering/customer service is very lacking, but I like some of the tools.

Anyways I ordered this tool: https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...SABEgLIZPD_BwE

I also ordered their tubing deburring tool :
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-tu...ring-tool.html

I did all the hard lines on two vehicles with that flaring tool and only had to redo one flare. So I feel it was well worth every penny! But man did I hate spending that much on a flaring tool. Oh yea and that deburring tool helped produce good flares easier too. I use to just use a knife blade or the deburring blade on the tubing cutters. But the eastwood tool with the cone shape make it's a little easier( not that is was that hard without it. ) .


They also sell a on the vehicle flaring tool. It works pretty good and makes repairing lines in a pinch easier. But I prefer replacing a bad line completely. But sometimes if I need a vehicle back on the road quickly I'll repair the line and then replace the whole thing later. Here's that tool:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on...parent_id=2834



I know I sound like a one man infomercial for eastwood tools. Believe me that's the last thing I want to do. If I find a tool there I like to search for the same tool from a different brand/place. Like I know there are other companies that sell that flaring tool for about $20.00 less. I bought mine from eastwood when it was one sale.



I say give it a shot and if he can do it himself, good. If he can't then pay someone to do it for him. Remember this is a major safety item. You don't need them failing again. Because if they do fail, you are not only putting yourself at risk. You have to consider everyone else out there too.

But I've also seen shops screw things up worse then I ever did.

 

I own a double flare tool and have used it quite a lot over the years, but the last couple times I bought the sections of line and the couplers available at the auto parts stores. The shorter lengths are much easier to install on most vehicles, than trying to slide a full length piece of tubing past everything and then flaring it. And the cost is usually less than factory replacement lines. You just have to make sure you have all the couplers tight.

 

Ok I understand. Let me ask this. The spot this rusted at is a point that the hard lines fasten to flex lines. I think the flex lines exit the break booster. And somewhat bend around the frame...that's where the hard lines rusted. The rock jacket was just short enough there to expose 3". Can I cut off 4" of hardline and replace the flex line? I know it's a no no to use a splice repair. I'm thinking this won't really be a splice and would only add 4" to a stock setup.

 

Depends if you could safely double flare that old line. My experience, if it's leaking anywhere it will soon go somewhere else. For the time, money, and most important safety, I'd replace all the leaking line.

 

Check on rockauto. I bet you have a flex hard line combo going from the reservoir to the abs or proportioning valve. My buddies f150s rusted and got them both on there already made.