Egr valve code/ bad egr cooler
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Egr valve code/ bad egr cooler
So I got the p0405 code on my 2006. The valve is less then 3 months old. So I pulled it out this morning and it's covered in a Gooey oil film, not dry soot as it should be. Am I looking at a failed egr cooler and a failed oil cooler? Please help I need to get this solved asap as I need my truck for work
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From: Salt Lake City, utah
When my EGR cooler went I had noticed a gooey film also but didn’t think much of it. I got about 4 months out of it that way just DD but it finally gave up. Time to replace it. As for the code remove and clean the IAT2 sensor.
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Should I also replace the oil cooler?
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From: Salt Lake City, utah
If you have the cash I would change the oil cooler. It’s a lot of work just to do the EGR cooler and then go back later just to replace the oil cooler. The whole top of the engine has to come off (turbo,FICM,Intake manifold,wiring,etc). I didn’t not replace my oil cooler at the time because my temp difference was at 8* but in hindsight I wish I would have.
Plan atleast a full day to do the work.
Plan atleast a full day to do the work.
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Wish I had seen this before I tore it down. I would have checked that out. But I have it torn down at this point. So I have the egr cooler out and the oil cooler. They are the crap doorman parts but that is what it is. My buddy at my parts store is going to "warranty" them out for me. So the egr cooler i took out has the tubes the new one to put in has the finns. Is one better then the other? I would imagine the tubes is better.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Henderson, NV
Wish I had seen this before I tore it down. I would have checked that out. But I have it torn down at this point. So I have the egr cooler out and the oil cooler. They are the crap doorman parts but that is what it is. My buddy at my parts store is going to "warranty" them out for me. So the egr cooler i took out has the tubes the new one to put in has the finns. Is one better then the other? I would imagine the tubes is better.
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Not putting the **** parts in by choice. The bank account tells me what I can put in. I did the oil cooler a three years ago probably is fine but while I'm doing the egr cooler figured since it is being warranted out for me might as well.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Henderson, NV
I hear you and understand. These trucks can be an expensive date sometimes. lol.
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That said, if you have to do something twice it isn't a good choice dollar wise.
The thing to do is learn how to buy OEM parts at the right price. I have seen this time-and-time again. People compare retail dealership prices to the aftermarket. There are too many choices now to get discounts on OEM parts for that to be a good decision.
The OEM oil cooler kit can be had for $296 or so (vs retail of $430). I realize the Dorman kit is even less (around $115), but with critical parts buried in the engine, it is worth the extra $180 .... at least it isn't the $315 difference!
The thing to do is learn how to buy OEM parts at the right price. I have seen this time-and-time again. People compare retail dealership prices to the aftermarket. There are too many choices now to get discounts on OEM parts for that to be a good decision.
The OEM oil cooler kit can be had for $296 or so (vs retail of $430). I realize the Dorman kit is even less (around $115), but with critical parts buried in the engine, it is worth the extra $180 .... at least it isn't the $315 difference!
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That said, if you have to do something twice it isn't a good choice dollar wise.
The thing to do is learn how to buy OEM parts at the right price. I have seen this time-and-time again. People compare retail dealership prices to the aftermarket. There are too many choices now to get discounts on OEM parts for that to be a good decision.
The OEM oil cooler kit can be had for $296 or so (vs retail of $430). I realize the Dorman kit is even less (around $115), but with critical parts buried in the engine, it is worth the extra $180 .... at least it isn't the $315 difference!
The thing to do is learn how to buy OEM parts at the right price. I have seen this time-and-time again. People compare retail dealership prices to the aftermarket. There are too many choices now to get discounts on OEM parts for that to be a good decision.
The OEM oil cooler kit can be had for $296 or so (vs retail of $430). I realize the Dorman kit is even less (around $115), but with critical parts buried in the engine, it is worth the extra $180 .... at least it isn't the $315 difference!
Fleet Owner
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I certainly apologize if my post was insensitive to your situation. Wasn't meant that way at all. I hope it isn't the case for you, but I have seen people get deeper in that hole with certain parts. I can see a cheap FICM board, after all you can buy a few of them for a new FICM cost. However, the oil cooler is one that can bite you in so many ways ... contaminate the coolant or sheds parts (oil cooler, IPR valve, even possibly getting past the IPR screen), etc. As for an EGR cooler, same type of thing. A delete is the best option there (it is as cheap as a new EGR cooler IIRC). I do wish you better luck in the future.
To answer an earlier question, I do believe that the EGR cooler w/ the tubes is better than the ones with the fins/plates.
To answer an earlier question, I do believe that the EGR cooler w/ the tubes is better than the ones with the fins/plates.
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I am Sorry if I want off a bit. I am just under alot of stress. I am replacing my oil cooler mainly because it is a doorman, all my number are great but since it's being swapped under warranty I am changing it just to be safe. Hopefully in a year or so I can go back in on last time with bullet proof parts. I hope .egr cooler i thought needed to me replaced due to the gooey oily filing n my egr valve. But as I am looking at it it seems fine. Would I be able to tell by looking at it if it is what is causing my issue with the egr valve? I don't think I can re route the ccv I'm in so cal and pretty sure I would not pass smog with that mod.
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I have always had a gooey EGR valve (pulling it every 50k miles or so), but never had a bad EGR cooler. I haven't really ever figured out why the sticky sludge was there. I have surmised that it was an injector dumping a little too much fuel. That would probably account for my 15 mpg fuel economy that I have had since way back.
It will take some fittings, but you can pressure test the EGR cooler if it has been removed.
It will take some fittings, but you can pressure test the EGR cooler if it has been removed.
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Nov 22, 2014 12:05 PM