I'm very close to tearing into the upper end of my truck for all new gaskets and a timing chain, I've been looking into budget cam kits. I want to use the 302 h.o,351 cam for the improved firing order. Yeah I know it probably doesnt make much of a difference but I'm set on it.. So I have my eyes on the summit k4400 kit, No it says its not computer friendly but from what I'm seeing on the specs I believe it'll work fine for what I want, Hauling, towing..

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k4400

Anyone wanna weigh in on what I got in mind? I'm open to other recommendations.

 

I looked at the specs at Summit's site and I think that the "Not Computer Compatible" part is more because that cam wouldn't pass emissions. It has a 112' lobe separation angle which is fine as far as I've read on cams and FI.


But I would warn you that that cam is most likely a "Made in China" cam kit and who knows what they used to make it. Be very careful when breaking in that cam and do use a high zinc oil or oil additive. Also don't go "stiff" on the valve springs used. I'm rebuilding an engine for a friend this winter and one thing I found was one bad lobe and worn lifter. A few others were also worn but you couldn't tell without measuring the lobes. This engine had "wayyy" to much valve spring for what it was. The cam was a Crane cam so not Chinese junk.

 

What motor is this going in your '86 5.0? The 0.050" lift specs suggest the cam will be "OK" for EFI as in it will run but as Jim suggested probably wouldn't pass a sniffer test. But hard to believe it will only make power out to 4500rpm with 280deg intake duration.

 

Yes going in the truck in sig. I've noticed with the summit and jegs camshafts that the powerband is usually showed more narrow that cams with similar or exact specs. I assume this is to push the more expensive cams.

 

I've heard these cams are usually ground by another manufacturer, I've never really heard anything about them but that their good for the money, I'd say alot of problems come from improper break in.

 

This is all assuming I have a flat tappet cam, For all I know it could have a car or later truck engine. Which I doubt but one never knows whats happened since 1986, I've only had this one about 6 months.

 

Closest one I could find for comparison. The edelbrock has 10 more degrees of duration on each side.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2182

 

The problem is not so much from break-in procedures, the problem is poorly machined lifters. Nobody thinks to inspect the bottoms before dropping them in the hole. (and they're all made in China now and have been for 20 years) Nor do they check to see that they spin freely in the bores. Another possibility is too much cam lube on the lobe/lifter, thus making it too slick for the cam lobe to get traction on the lifter to set it in motion spinning in the bore. No spin = wipeout before the break-in's done.

 

If I do a cam, it'll be that one. I'm definitely doing the timing chain regardless it has plenty of slop. I've got a nice double roller picked out.

 

Dont spend your inheritance on the timing set. The best deal is the O.E. replacement double row, roller chain set listed at the parts house ( Cloyes Truroller). That's what's spinning the valve train in my 331 and has been for 14 yes now. I paid $25 for it back then. It was still tight 2yrs ago when I went into the motor to replace a bent rod

 

I'm getting a Sealed Power double roller for 25.99, Nice to me is what I want that isn't expensive. Specifically part number KT3-163SA1.