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driving down the expressway today my truck started to shake ALOT, after i got off the exit i smelled brakes burning and saw some smoke comming from drivers wheel well...i was close to home thank god...when i touched the rim to see if hot i allmost burned my fingers off! i figure it was caliper lock up because the vehicle pulled to the left hard...but heres the weird part... after i let it cool down a bit i hosed it down to cool t off more cause i had to go to work soon..it has been several hours and i have done alot of driving and the problem has NOT reoccured...what might cause something like this? i dont hear the brakes squealing or anything it's like it never happpened. just wondering if anyone has had this happen before or somethng like it.
thanks guys (and gals)
If none of your calipers are worn, and the pads look ok, I would check the e-brake pad. A friend of mine burnt his up and drove around for months before noticing what he burnt was his e-brake...
Sounds like it was on the front of the vehicle so it wouldn't be the e-brake. I have had calipers stick before and then work okay for awhile. I'd put on some new calipers as soon as you can. At least the vehicle is not stuck on the side of the road. Probably good idea to pick up a set of pads since you probably smoked one side already.
would pulling a set from the boneyard be a safe idea? or should i just go to autozone or some place...also i've never done this one before and i would guess i may have to bleed at least the side i do right? "teach me oh wise one"
Boneyard calipers are no better than what you already have, probably worse. New ones are not that expensive.
You have to replace both calipers (right and left) at the same time.
The job is not difficult. However, if you have ABS, do not allow the master cylinder to run dry once you disconnect the old calipers from the brake lines; repriming the master cylinder requires an expensive special tool (or so says the Haynes Manual). You should be able to disconnect the lines and reconnect to the new calipers without running dry if you work quickly. Leaving the cover tightly on the master cylinder will inhibit the fluid flow considerably.
There are two types of caliper pistons shown for the '94, phenolic and metal. I don't know the advantage of one over the other but I would go for the metal if given a choice; I have the phenolic and have found them to be VERY fragile.
Just a tip. To keep the lines from running dry clamp them off with a pair of visegrips. Also don't foget to replace the copper washers, it will definately leak if you don't.
Originally posted by stepman Just a tip. To keep the lines from running dry clamp them off with a pair of visegrips. Also don't foget to replace the copper washers, it will definately leak if you don't.
Don't use any type vise grip they make a type for clamping hoses If you use a regular vise grip you will probable damage the brake line which could cause leaking or blowout. another way is take a piece of rubber hose plug one end and slip it over the end of the line until you ready to install the new caliper . Also I agree on New vs used. I use the philosophy The vehicle can run like
s---,but I want to be able to stop if and when I have to.GO WITH NEW
The calipers are realtively cheap $100 rebuilt. If they were heated up that much then you'll probably need a new rotor as well as pads(pick up a new copper crush washer to seal the flex line to the caliper). You should buy a repair manual and while you are at it buy the "speed bleeders" because they only require one person to bleed the brakes. It is almost fun at this point.
Before you drop a load of cash on new parts, take a look at the caliper on your truck. What might be stuck is the glide pins and not the piston. To check the piston, remove one of the caliper bolts and swing it away from the rotor. With a c-clamp, place a brake pad over the piston and apply steady pressure. If the piston pushes back in then the caliper is fine. If it is frozen no matter how much force you apply the caliper must go. While you are there pull the glide pins and check for rust, etc. If rusty, then steel wool it and repack with silicon brake lube. Install new pads and see if they are better.
Originally posted by mason If it's not the guide pins and you do replace the calipers then you will need to bleed your brakes. I would bleed all four corners just to be safe.
Mason
I fully agree. Plus it is a good idea to bleed the brakes every 2-3 years to keep the brake system healthy, so that the calipers don't rust.
well it might be trick but i think i can handle it..i took on radius arm busings recently calipers can be no match for 10 hours of hell and 4 rivets...sounds like a day project since i lke to take my time and do it right, ya know what i mean? the rotors are the "lifetime" ones from autozone so i sould be able to get them replaced for free...as well the pads...somethings it is worth taking the parts store's "lifetime gurantee" on.