A search of this forum turned up some reccomendations to ditch points in favor of electronic ignition but nothing about reasons behind that recommendation. I'm actually working on 1950-1970 farm tractors and having unending ignition problems that tractor people blame on sub-standard points,condensers and coils built overseas. Most of those old tractors have been converted from 6 volts to 12 volts resulting in parts listings being a little confusing. Some use 12 volt coil with external ballast resistor and others use 12 volt coil with internal resistor and both arrangements have excessive ignition failures. There are electronic conversions available but it would be beneficial if I could do a points tune up that didn't fail in as little as a few hours operation(occasionally within 15 minutes). I grew up with points and familiar enough working with vom,voltage drop,amps,watts,amps and schematics to keep the 6.0 in my sig running. Now,my question. Do you have high rate of failure and short life of points, condensers and coils?

 

I don't know beans about tractors, but the OHV V8 points (except HiPo's), condenser, rotor and distributor cap are the same 1958/73 and 1974/75 without DuraSpark.

These parts are still available from Ford. The repro parts sellers may have them, but also may have made in China crap!

 

Yea I wasn't sure what people would think about tractors but ignition systems are the same. This problem has been going on for years and no one has a solution. I'm curious if vintage cars and trucks are having the same problem. Thanks for the heads up on Ford still offering parts,the majority of old tractors around here are Ford.

 

People are having all sorts of problems with vintage cars/trucks, because most auto part store and repro parts sellers electrical parts are made in China crap!

One of the biggest problems is with condensers. Lotsa luck buying a condenser from a parts store that won't fail within a few months. Some don't even last that long.

 

I figured that might be the case. I'll pick up a couple from the local Ford dealer to see how they do. Please, anyone that has had any experience with this,chime in. Considering the simplicity of the parts involved,this has been humbling. 5 years ago I was 100% confident of my ability to quickly diagnose and repair pre-1970 engines. I've had more failed attempts in those 5 years than I did during the 20 years I used them as primary transportation.

 

Last September, Chris (ctubutis-moderator of the 1980/86 forum) and I spent two weeks driving thru OK and bits of KS & TX

During this trip, we visited 23 Ford dealers looking for "goodies."

A dealer we stopped at in Noble OK also sold tractors. The parts guy and the owner were well versed in them.

 

Sound's like Patiort or Reynolds. I'll call them if Sam Pack can't help me find what I need.

 

Most vehicles and machinery work fine if the original engineering is left alone. The problem occurs when people start screwing with things as though their ideas are better than the original designers. Call me a cranky old fart but I just have to laugh when people modify things, whether it be the ignition system, wiring system, charging system, front end and braking systems, and then cry when they have problems!

 

I've added front disc brakes, power brake booster, a modern brake MC, power steering, intermittent wipers, 130A 3G alternator, tilt wheel column, 31-spline axles along with a 4-pinion Traction-Lok N-case 3rd member and front & rear swaybars. These parts are all Ford engineered --Just installed on a different year model truck. They all work exceptionally well and much better than what they replaced (or wasn't there to begin with) and, I have no complaints with any of them.

....since my tired old 240 just recently gave up the ghost in the '69 Ranger, looks like I'll be replacing the points distributor that came out of it. I've known for a while the distributor had a crack in the casting, at the base where the distributor mates up to the block, at the hold down tab. When I went unbolt the tab, to remove the distributor from the deceased engine, a chunk of the distributor flange fell off. I have a Ford Duraspark II electronic distributor from an '83 300 that will finally be put to use. I suspect it will also work exceptionally well and I won't have to fool with points and condensers anymore.

Years ago, I converted the points distributor in the 302 in my '68 Mustang with a Duraspark distributor and I never had any problems out of it after the swap.

I suspect in many cases where people swap things, they don't thoroughly research things before hand and they're operating from a standpoint of not really knowing or fully understanding what it is they're doing. This usually leads to bad results but the parts are blamed as being the fault.

 

You're a different breed. You do it with an engineers' mindset, hence the results are exceptional.

 

Or you might call Cameron at Sanderson Ford here in Arizona. They are also a Ford Power Products Dealer. 623-842-8793.

 

Ignition Coils don't have an internal resistOR as such, they have an internal resistANCE. Minor point but it helps to understand the issue - depending on the number of windings on the primary and the ratio of these turns compared with the secondary windings determines the potential voltage output.

Anyway it is mostly the current (amperes) flowing through the primary ignition circuit that we are concerned with. This is what will roast points, coils, and solid state ignition modules when it becomes excessive. The mechanic must know, not guess, the primary resistance before deciding what parts to use.

The issue of substandard points and condensers is well known in the vintage and collector community. Those who continue to utilize contact point ignition in their ride are best advised to seek out vintage NOS parts from various online sources. Fortunately they are still in good supply and not expensive.

Most ignition point problems today (apart from imported ersatz scheisse) can be traced to worn out or defective distributors. Since most of us aren't putting 20,000 miles on every year frequent tuneups are no longer necessary. A good set of points and condenser will last for years and years. But if the distributor itself is clapped out, it will be impossible to get points adjusted correctly.

 

The issue of bad points and condensers for vintage tractors has been studied on the Ford N forum on Yesterdays Tractors. It is best to use NOS parts as a first choice if possible. Next available is Standard Blue Streak points. Next choice is NAPA.

 

I have converted a couple of my Fords from points to electronic, although now I don't remember why. This is just my opinion but there is really no sense in changing a good condenser, there is nothing in them to wear out. In my 64 years of wrenching the only failed ones I've remember seeing were new. I presently have 2 Fords with points and they are trouble free. Well, almost. I find that the most substandard part of new points is the rubbing block. It takes 500 miles or so for it to seat in a wear pattern and the points gap will close considerably in the run in and need re-adjusted. The 260 in my hotrod has been running the same points for 5+ years and haven't touched them since the initial re-adjustment. My 59 has been on the road about a year and a half and I drive it almost every day.

 

Hey Willow. Remember back in the day points used to come with a capsule of grease for the rubbing block for that wear?
For those too young to remember, get some dielectric silicone grease. This is the same thing as disc brake caliper slide grease. Put a dab on the inside edge of the points' rubbing block.