STUMPED! can't get it started!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
Did you have the throttle body propped open when you did the compression test?
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2017
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no I didn't but 1,3,4,5 all had 140-150 while 2,6 both had 30. why does throttle plate matter? not doubting just not very knowledgeable.
I read a lot of stories on people using stale gas and bending push rods. I'm hoping that's the case because I checked compression prior to bad gas and it was all 135-150 does anyone have any literature or instructions on how to do something like that? I'm pretty mechanical, farm boy, but ain't too experienced with gas engines. This truck only has been driven ~500 miles by me and I got it at an auction for cheap. I love the body style.
I'm just a broke boy trying to get it going again so I can start making her pretty. I got time and motivation, just not a whole lotta cash laying around
I read a lot of stories on people using stale gas and bending push rods. I'm hoping that's the case because I checked compression prior to bad gas and it was all 135-150 does anyone have any literature or instructions on how to do something like that? I'm pretty mechanical, farm boy, but ain't too experienced with gas engines. This truck only has been driven ~500 miles by me and I got it at an auction for cheap. I love the body style.
I'm just a broke boy trying to get it going again so I can start making her pretty. I got time and motivation, just not a whole lotta cash laying around
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
To check for bent push rods you would have to remove either the valve cover or side cover. I don't know what to say now.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
On second thought if you could get a hold of a good borescope, you may be able to position the motor and see how far the valves are opening.
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Freshman User
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I'm operating under the assumption it's pushrods for now. do you have to remove the head to change them out or can it all be accessed by the pushrod cover?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
Yes, it starts at the front with an exhaust valve and alternates. ie E I E I E I E I E I E I. As you probably noticed, you can tell by the manifolds.
Stay tuned. Now that you got the valve cover off, it is easy to verify which stroke the distributor is on. I will post later.
Stay tuned. Now that you got the valve cover off, it is easy to verify which stroke the distributor is on. I will post later.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
Turn the engine clockwise from the front until the INTAKE valve on cylinder #1 opens and closes, ie the rocker arm pushes the valve down and lets it back up. At that point the timing mark on the harmonic balancer will be roughly half way around from the timing marks. Continue turning the engine clockwise until the timing marks line up to Top Dead Center or 10 degrees before.
Actually at any point the intake valve starts to open, you can just go clockwise until the timing marks line up.
Now the rotor should be pointing at the#1 spark plug terminal. If you verify this, you won't be wondering when you go to start the engine.
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checked and timing is spot-on. tried to start it, wanted to start on first go after cycling key 3-4 times. sprayed some ether and it ran so I'm moving on to fuel issues. gonna swap out my dual tank reservoir to single tank and drop the fuel tank and clean the injectors.
that bad gas really put a damper on my day
that bad gas really put a damper on my day
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