New Ford owner here (2017 350 Platinum CCSB 4WD) completely stock. 22K miles on the truck and its been in the shop around 5 weeks since new. I'm wondering if anyone had experienced the same problems and have potential fixes as the dealership has now given it a clean bill of health...

1. Tailgate release issue...resolved by dealer, I addressed this in depth on the tailgate thread. Dealer and Ford did not know if this was a quality issue, parts issue, or if the new parts had been updated....
2. I have over 1.25" of up and down play (pivot) between the adjustable drop hitch (Weigh Safe) and receiver. Dealer says this is intentional so as to prevent rust freezing...wow. I will not use this truck to bumper pull anything the 2" adapter and hitch cannot handle. I have the 2.5" tube.
3. Rear view mirrors shake enough so that I cannot clearly see cars behind me or my trailers. This is either on rough/normal pavement, gravel roads, or music (including classical or country) set on 10 or more. Dealer says this is within spec.
4. I had the fuel tank/sender replaced under TSB. Its made it worse...at 25 miles to empty yesterday, I filled 28.5 gallons. Before the fix, I was at 29.75 or so.
5. Grinding noise on 4H and throttle on snowpack. I read a thread here that says this is normal...
6. Whining noise from the steering column (it does have adaptive steering). Noise presents itself when steering strait or without turning pressure. Dealer says this is normal.
7. Intermittent electrical gremlins...unresponsive touch screen, inop electronic safety aids.
8. Loud sucking sound at idle from under the truck
9. And wow, the pickup hates speeds over 65 fuel economy wise loaded or unloaded. I get 11 mpg on a 16x8 box trailer and 8 mpg with a 40' toy hauler at 18K. Unladen, and with a moderate foot, I get 14 or so.

I love the power and looks, hate the build quality. If anyone has any constructive feedback, I'd love to hear it. Thanks.

 

I have a 2017 Lariat 6.7 CCSB 4x4. I only have 5k miles on mine and of the issues you listed I have/had
1. Tailgate issue
2. Hitch issue (mine has at least the 1 inch of play but its with the 2 inch adapter and not the 2.5)
4. I had the fuel tank TSB done with no change. Still only takes 27.5 gallons when empty.

Sorry to hear you had all of those issues! Dealer resolved my tailgate issue but there's really nothing else to do about the hitch and the fuel tank now.

 

#9 is normal. That's pretty well documented here for 6.2's.
All the rest sounds like you got stuck with a bad one. Too bad you're probably outside of the lemon law, but it's worth checking with your state's AG to find out.

 

As far as the Weigh Safe and the hitch goes, yes there is some play and pretty much every other truck on the road with a rear receiver has some. I put a full length Brass Shim between the receiver and the Weigh Safe. Which tightened it up quite a bit. Also, on another thread I posted that my Weigh Safe Completely froze solid from the lower temperatures. My fault for not removing it when not in use. Should be a Pre-Winter to do item.

 

1. Glad they fixed your gate. Common problem (not on the XL's hahaha)
2. Not sure if serious. Yes hitches can bounce around. It's no big deal. If it rattles, get a heavier hitch. I'm running a 12" shank pintle ball with 8" up and 4" down adjustment. My 14" solid shank pintle ball has tons of adjustment, 12" up for military trailers, but it'll hit the gate if a schmuch opens it. Complete and total non-issue. You can hammer a tree branch in there if it makes you feel better.

3. I haven't noticed any side view mirror shake. Either I don't have it, or it isn't objectionable. Ride a Ducati 1199S and tell me about mirror shake.

4. Haha. that's why you don't have dealers fix stuff that ain't broken. You have plenty of reserve fuel at E, why is that a problem for some people??? Lots of complaints about it, but Ford isn't the only one with this problem. Might be engineered into the truck to keep people from nuking pumps. Pumps need to be splash cooled.
5. Yeah xfer cases make noise.
6. #platinum problems. LOL.
7. #more plat problems. Stop going to high pressure car automatic washes and wash it by hand, if you are doing that. You can disco the battery wait 10 min, turn on a light, hit the brake pedal, then reconnect the battery to see if it helps.

8. Check to make sure your vacuum line hasn't popped of your front axle. Check the other vacuum lines. Then again, if you thought a bouncy hitch was abnormal, I'm going to guess this just a normal cold engine sound you're mistaking for a problem. I also suspect a noisy cold PS pump. No big deal.

9. Actually sounds good to me.

 

 

 

If it really bugs you that much, have a machine shop weld some steel to the hitch and machin it down to a closer tolerance, or have a custom hitch made.

"My hitch be stuck." is another problem that'll pop up. It's a compromise either way.

 

 

 

Yeah, I don't have the guts to run an Al hitch. Steel for me only from now on.

 

I agree 100%. I don't think avoiding the car wash to avoid electrical issues is acceptable either....

 

It probably has nothing to do with the car wash. But I don't imagine pressure blasting soy based wires are helping matters much.

There seems to be a pattern with washes and E gremlins.

 

I don't have problems with the hitch. My first truck of this generation was a 2017 dually with the 3" hitch. I ran the first adapter down to 2.5" so I could use existing hitches I already had. There was a little play, but not too much.

My current truck is a 2017 F-250 with the 2.5" hitch. I'm not using the adapter at all now, and again there is some play but not too much.

I tow a lot. Everything from a lightweight aluminum enclosed snowmobile trailer in the winter to a 16k equipment hauler in the summer. Every hitch and receiver is made different. There are simply nominal 2", 2.5", 3" sizes. Most hitch shank manufacturers err on the side of undersized so they fit easily.

I've never had any concern of the hitch pin coming out; I don't believe it will. It would take many years for an elongation to occur even with some slop. All the tongue weight pushes down and all the trailer weight pulls backward...so in operation there is very little movement. You might hear a little extra noise over significant bumps or a slight clunk in reverse, but that's no big deal.

When you speak of rear view mirror, are you talking about the one inside the truck or the exterior mirrors? My exterior mirrors shake more on this truck than they every did on my previous generation Super Duty. It can be annoying. If it is a major problem, I'd adjust the mirror all the way out so you can see under the glass a bit. Stick on the smallest tire balancing weight a tire shop offers. This will dampen movement and helps eliminate the shake.

I don't have any grinding while operating 4x4 on snow, which I do a lot. You do hear a very slight whine as you pull away right on up to highway speeds if the fan blower is turned down and the radio is off. This is characteristic of having the front output shaft turning in the transfer case. On my truck, it really is no different then what I heard on previous generation Super Duty trucks or a Jeep, etc.

My steering makes noise when you are actually providing steering input at low speeds. Basically the usual hydraulic noises. But not when the steering wheel is straight. Neither of my 2017 trucks had adaptive steering though.

The "sucking sound" is pretty normal. It's even louder at the rear of the truck. I think the turbo automatically adjusts it vanes to help warm the engine which may cause the noise. Alternately, it could be a DEF injection occurring.

 

With 1.25” of slop in your hitch did you get the 2.5”-2” reducer sleeve if you are using a 2” receiver? Some trucks have been delivered without the reducer an it has to be in the hitch in order to use a 2” ball mount in a 2.5” hitch.