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Thanks Troverman. I’ll try to post a video and photos if I can of the slop. If you google most of my concerns, you’ll find that others are experiencing similar problems.
The hitch is nowhere near acceptable. I’ve towed trailers up to max weight on both bed and bumper since I could drive, not really lacking in the experience department nor lacking in comparative analysis....
Originally Posted by troverman
I don't have problems with the hitch. My first truck of this generation was a 2017 dually with the 3" hitch. I ran the first adapter down to 2.5" so I could use existing hitches I already had. There was a little play, but not too much.
My current truck is a 2017 F-250 with the 2.5" hitch. I'm not using the adapter at all now, and again there is some play but not too much.
I tow a lot. Everything from a lightweight aluminum enclosed snowmobile trailer in the winter to a 16k equipment hauler in the summer. Every hitch and receiver is made different. There are simply nominal 2", 2.5", 3" sizes. Most hitch shank manufacturers err on the side of undersized so they fit easily.
I've never had any concern of the hitch pin coming out; I don't believe it will. It would take many years for an elongation to occur even with some slop. All the tongue weight pushes down and all the trailer weight pulls backward...so in operation there is very little movement. You might hear a little extra noise over significant bumps or a slight clunk in reverse, but that's no big deal.
When you speak of rear view mirror, are you talking about the one inside the truck or the exterior mirrors? My exterior mirrors shake more on this truck than they every did on my previous generation Super Duty. It can be annoying. If it is a major problem, I'd adjust the mirror all the way out so you can see under the glass a bit. Stick on the smallest tire balancing weight a tire shop offers. This will dampen movement and helps eliminate the shake.
I don't have any grinding while operating 4x4 on snow, which I do a lot. You do hear a very slight whine as you pull away right on up to highway speeds if the fan blower is turned down and the radio is off. This is characteristic of having the front output shaft turning in the transfer case. On my truck, it really is no different then what I heard on previous generation Super Duty trucks or a Jeep, etc.
My steering makes noise when you are actually providing steering input at low speeds. Basically the usual hydraulic noises. But not when the steering wheel is straight. Neither of my 2017 trucks had adaptive steering though.
The "sucking sound" is pretty normal. It's even louder at the rear of the truck. I think the turbo automatically adjusts it vanes to help warm the engine which may cause the noise. Alternately, it could be a DEF injection occurring.
Look guys, every brand has a strong fan base, and I love that and have been guilty of jumping on the bandwagon. But to accept real problems as it’s just the way it is or “I’ll just fix it myself” is absolutely ridiculous. Don’t make excuses for even your favorite brands, hold the manufacturers accountable. This is not 1960,1970, nor 1990. This is the era of computer aided design, simulation, testing, and modeling.
Totally agree with you.
I'm sorry that you are having these issues. It is disappointing and I do appreciate the info and can understand your point of view. I'm happy to say that my adaptive steering and transfer case seem to be noiseless. These variances in the manufacturing process are disconcerting for sure.
With 1.25” of slop in your hitch did you get the 2.5”-2” reducer sleeve if you are using a 2” receiver? Some trucks have been delivered without the reducer an it has to be in the hitch in order to use a 2” ball mount in a 2.5” hitch.
Pickup has the 2.5” receiver and factory 2” reducer sleeve. I’ve been using a 2” drop hitch for toys, but now with a few miles of fun use I’d like to bumper pull a 14-15k dump trailer/compact track loader combo. That requires pulling the sleeve and using the 2.5” shank. So no, I’m tracking on this. The 2” drop hitch has the normal and familiar slop with the receiver, no issue with that. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Thanks bob. I want to love this pickup so much but it’s like a teenager. Seeing as both Ram and GM twins are at the end of their life cycle, I’m prolly going to swap out this pickup for a 2018 or 2019 F450 and see if things have improved.
Originally Posted by acadianbob
Totally agree with you.
I'm sorry that you are having these issues. It is disappointing and I do appreciate the info and can understand your point of view. I'm happy to say that my adaptive steering and transfer case seem to be noiseless. These variances in the manufacturing process are disconcerting for sure.
Right?! Funny thing is that we have multiple Land Rover products and experience a lot of electrical gremlins. The great part is that the dealership tells us to avoid water and car washes though the new Rovers are all marketed with a max fording depth claim.
The difference here here is that we put up with “Lucas, the Prince of Darkness” (OE manufacturer of a a lot of Rover parts) because we expect it. I didn’t for this Ford...
Originally Posted by st1nn3tt
I agree 100%. I don't think avoiding the car wash to avoid electrical issues is acceptable either....
Right?! Funny thing is that we have multiple Land Rover products and experience a lot of electrical gremlins. The great part is that the dealership tells us to avoid water and car washes though the new Rovers are all marketed with a max fording depth claim.
The difference here here is that we put up with “Lucas, the Prince of Darkness” (OE manufacturer of a a lot of Rover parts) because we expect it. I didn’t for this Ford...
I'm also a former owner of many Land Rover products. Lucas hasn't made many electrical parts for Rovers in years (they were mostly phased out by the P38 Range Rovers). Bosch, Valeo, and Denso were (are) the primary electrical suppliers for later models, similar to most European makes. That didn't stop the electrical glitches from happening, though!
Frankly, I had less electrical problems with my two 1992 Range Rovers than any other Land Rover I owned...and one of those was used almost exclusively off road and operated in deep water / mud. My 1995 and 1997 Range Rover 4.0's were probably the worst; our 2000 Discovery II was not bad, and our 2005 LR3 V8 was "fair."
We all still blame Lucas. Perhaps it’s from working on my NAS Defender 90 all the time! I don’t bother working on the new Rovers, they go either straight to the dealer if under warranty or to an independent if off.
Originally Posted by troverman
I'm also a former owner of many Land Rover products. Lucas hasn't made many electrical parts for Rovers in years (they were mostly phased out by the P38 Range Rovers). Bosch, Valeo, and Denso were (are) the primary electrical suppliers for later models, similar to most European makes. That didn't stop the electrical glitches from happening, though!
Frankly, I had less electrical problems with my two 1992 Range Rovers than any other Land Rover I owned...and one of those was used almost exclusively off road and operated in deep water / mud. My 1995 and 1997 Range Rover 4.0's were probably the worst; our 2000 Discovery II was not bad, and our 2005 LR3 V8 was "fair."
We all still blame Lucas. Perhaps it’s from working on my NAS Defender 90 all the time! I don’t bother working on the new Rovers, they go either straight to the dealer if under warranty or to an independent if off.
Definitely jealous. One of the best looking and most capable SUVs ever, if not majorly overpriced for basically being a Discovery I underneath.
Absoultely the truth on both accounts! I’m having trouble posting pics on this site through my iPhone... I’m in my 30s but am a complete computer related retard...
Originally Posted by troverman
Definitely jealous. One of the best looking and most capable SUVs ever, if not majorly overpriced for basically being a Discovery I underneath.
Land Rovers have been remarkably reliable for years. I missed the bad days I guess.
Fording water and heavy rain isn't a pressure washer though. I can't pressure wash my bikes. It'll blow water past the fork seals, and it'll blow water through the swing arm bearing and linkages. There is some logic to this. Those rubber seals on the connector plugs are made for natural amounts of pressure. if you hit them just right....
The TRS and SRS sensors on a DDC Series 60 are a good example. When I wash those engines, If I hit those sensor plugs, the engine won't start.
SD is pointed uphill a bit...it does sit level with this toy hauler though right at max payload wet. Also the little British bugger sticking his nose into the picture...
Last edited by 208rover; Feb 12, 2018 at 12:27 PM.
Reason: Update