Thanks! That's great info.

Do these sellers include nuts for the spacer-to-hub, wheel-to-hub, or both? The Ex is M14x2 and the wheels are coming with M14x1.5 shiny new lug nuts.

I'm aware of the trim requirement, I think (hope) we packed a grinder in the toolbox in the trailer...

 

They come with the nuts for the spacer only you can probably use your current lug nuts on the newer wheels.

 

You should be able to convert the threads with the spacers, just be sure to talk with the vendor to make sure you get the course nuts for mounting to your hubs and fine thread on the new studs on the spacers. But if the nuts don't show on the new wheels there isn't any reason that you couldn't just keep the same course lug nuts and matching studs on the new spacers, the wheels don't care what thread is being used. The actual offset difference is only 1.75" or so, but by going with 2" thick hub centric spacers you should be avoiding having to trim the stud length.
Your hitch is derated to 1000lbs Tongue weight and 10,000lbs trailer weight using WD due to the size of the bolts holding it to your frame, later EXs had larger bolts (only difference) there that bumped the rating up to 1250/12,5000lbs. My '05 higher rated hitch would flex a little with my TT's 1480lb tongue weight, I upgraded to the Torklift SuperHitch 20K hitch that is rated at 2000lbs tongue weight and 20,000lbs trailer weight. With that heavy trailer I would think that your hitch is being pushed well beyond its limits and it has to flexing some with 2000/2500lbs of TW. Seriously consider upgrading to a heavier rated hitch or at the very least, upgrade to the later spec larger hitch to frame bolts.
I agree that a single friction style sway bar on the hitch is inadequate for that long of a high profile (even though it lower than a large TT) trailer, I don't even think that a set of those bars would provide enough friction for that setup. In my opinion, a good WD hitch with built-in sway control and properly sized spring bars is what should be used there. That would provide the best control and keep the wiggling from passing trucks well in check. My Hensley (that I am over on rated TW) keeps my 11K 41' TT and the EX feeling more like a straight body truck in crosswinds and when getting passed by big rigs (or when I'm passing them! ).
What type of race cars are you hauling in there? And how is the tour going on the track so far?

 

Thanks for the info! I'll just have to be paranoid on this trip for the hitch load, but I'll ensure we inspect it before next departure.

I decided to a set of Bora aluminum spacers from Motorsport-Tech.com. They'll supply the M14x2 lug nuts to mount the spacer to the hub, and install M14x1.5 studs for me to use the included stock '17 lug nuts.

2" spacing is a good number; from info I've found online changing wheels from the Excursion (7x16, ET6.3) to the '17 F-250 wheel (8x20, ET40) would put the inside wheel rim 47mm closer in. A 2" (50.8mm) spacer should negate inside clearance issues and make the outside rim protrude 29.8mm farther, then an additional 5mm tire section width. I should have sufficient fender clearance but if not we'll trim as needed.

So you don't think a 2" spacer will require stud trimming?

We're hauling two 2008 Honda Civic Si in there, prepped to SCCA Super Touring rules, very close to World Challenge specs. First weekend at Circuit of the Americas in Austin was a mixed bag: Ed popped his engine in the first practice session; new engine, dyno time only, we suspect a failed (or improperly secured) rod bolt. We'll find out when we get it home. I had better luck, with a win and a second place, with the latter due to a cutting out problem we have to resolve. But otherwise, a fun weekend.

Next stop New Orleans racetrack first week of March (open to the public!) then we've decided to tow the cars back to NJ to swap out Ed's engine. Then we're at Virginia Int'l Raceway in early April, Watkins Glen in late June, New Jersey Motorsports Park mid-summer, then maybe out to Pittsburgh if we're not dealing with bankruptcy and/or divorce courts by then.

 

[off topic] Sounds like a lot of fun. Once I get my 1969 Shelby GT350 done, I plan to use the EX to travel, taking the car to various shows and events across the country. Not sure I am ready for the Hot Rod Power Tour yet, trying to keep the mileage on the car down. [/off topic] Looking forward to seeing how my 04 V10 pulls my (estimated) 6-7k lb 24' trailer. I still have to rebuild the front end of it as I can hear at least 1 ball joint bumping around. I'm sure I will find more once I take it apart.

 

Make that hitch inspection part of your towing preflight.
Sounds like fun (except for the courts part! ), good luck with the rest of your season. In the past I helped crew and support (and tow) my brother's dirt modified circle track operation (D.I.R.T. Sportsman/Modified) and more recently our son used to race dirt track Quarter Midgets. We started a little late in the QM world as he was 11 years old racing against kids that started at 6 Y/O. To get him (and us) up to speed in the cars we hit it hard and ran 54 events (both evening and weekend day long races) at 6 different tracks in PA. NJ, DE & MD in the first year. Our engine guy said that was the highest number of races on a single engine (Honda GX120) he had seen for one season, we nearly wore it out!

 

I ran my '69 Trans Am (1 of 697 total, 1 of 540 with RAIII 4 Speed) with the local Porsche club in a SCCA Solo event a few years ago. They had a good mix of daily drivers up to full on track cars, I finished the day with times that placed me solidly in the middle of the pack. I spend more time sideways and counter steering than going straight and only ate a handful of cones. I surprised a few of them and myself, it was loads of fun!

 

2" spacer works perfect. I have 2" Fred's spacers from wheeladapter after trying a couple of cheaper options. Make sure you get the hubcentric spacers.

 

I pulled a 7,000 lb 24' enclosed with a '99 E-350 V10 6.8L 2-valver for a while. It pulled pretty decent, but did enjoy its gasoline; I got about 7 mpg highway on average when loaded up. Best thing I ever did for it though was swapping the final drive to 4.30; after that it stopped downshifting on rolling hills and even increased the fuel economy to around 8.

I sold it because I was approaching 100k miles and felt that Sword of Damocles (spark plug change) looming over my head. That '99 had the earlier heads with the very thin thread engagement and I did not want to deal with spitted-out plugs...and right about that same time I found a decent '00 Excursion PSD (prior to this one) with the 28' trailer, and the guy was willing to take the E in trade, so I decided to bail on the van. Miss the utility of the van but I've been an Excursion fanatic since.

Racing is a disease. As Peter Egan once noted, "Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty."

So no need to trim the studs? Boras are listed as hubcentric, so I should be good there.

 

You need to put the spacers on first and check with a straight edge, with my 2" spacers I didn't have to trim the rear studs but I did a slight bit on the front, different brands of front hub assembly's have different length studs so you may or may not have to trim.

 

I have a 36+' travel trailer (approx 10,000 lb), which is undoubtedly lighter than your load, but I had the sway problem too and found that loading the trailer with more weight on the tongue eliminated it. I have a friction sway bar, Reese WD hitch, and airbags. Putting something like 60% of the weight in front of the trailer axles and I have no more sway when trucks pass.

 

If that is the case, you are running about DOUBLE the weight the receiver is designed for. That would make me nervous. Add in the fact you are towing 50% over the designed trailer weight. I don't like to be an RV net weight police, but you NEED more truck!

Would you drive your car on the track at speed without a seat belt or helmet? Ehh, don't need that stuff, the car hasn't wrecked before. I know what I sound like here, but think about it.

 

I kind of can't believe you're still using the stock receiver hitch. The stickers on my 2000 hitch say it's rated for 10000# trailer and 1000# tongue weight with a WD hitch. I would get that swapped out for a 15k hitch ASAP.

Do you have an EGT gauge? Are your injectors/turbo stock? I bet you are pulling some crazy high EGTs on hills.

 

A stock Class IV hitch with weight distribution load bars is rated for 14,000 pounds gross and 1,400 tongue.

I have an EGT gauge and a trans temp gauge. Trans temps never exceeded 155 and EGT never exceeded 950 (I have a warning set at 1000, it never sounded.)

The rig, with its three axles of electric brakes, actually brakes BETTER than when I'm pulling my 28' 10k 2-axle trailer. I have almost no brake dust on the front wheels (Hawk LT pads).

Gents, reports of our collective fiery deaths have been greatly exaggerated...

 

I understand that Class IV hitches are rated up to 14,000# trailer and 1,400# tongue weight. However, the sticker on the hitch on my truck says 10,000#/1000# max weight and yours might have too even if the sticker is gone now. The weight limits were increased at some point in the Excursion's production span, I believe to 12,500#/1250# but even then you are way overweight for the stock receiver hitch.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-hardware.html