Have a 1984 f150 with 300 i6 and np435 tranny. My clutch was slipping and it was hard to get into gear sometimes. Well I decided to change my clutch. I went with an 11 inch clutch. I got new flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disk. I got it all installed and now it won't disengage.

I'm guessing I have a problem somewhere with the hydraulics or the pedal assemble. And ideas on what my be the issue before I got tearing back into it?

 

The hydraulic clutch has to be bled just like the brakes. You can get most of the air out but not all of it. Some people take the components completely out of the truck to bleed them, but it may be too late for you if you do not have a external slave cylinder.

But most of the slaves have a bleeder on them, some are hard to see since they are just a allen screw. If you can find a bleeder, crack it open while someone pushes and holds the pedal to the floor, just like bleeding brakes. Close it off and tell them to lift. You can do this a couple of times and see if it gets any better.

It still may not be that great. What I do next is drive it. If you have a open area or roads that are not busy, you can start it in 1st gear and take off. I have found as you drive over bumps and up an down hills, it gets better and better as any remaining air works it's way back up into the master reservoir.

 

Mine is external. What way do you turn the rod that connects to the clutch for adjustments

 

You cannot adjust the actual hydraulic clutch system, only some have adjustable PEDALS. If you did not touch any of the parts with fluid you shouldn't have to bleed it and I would stay far away from trying to bleed it, been there, broke the bleeder, hassle to change the slave, you get it... You should be able to see any bubbles anyway in the line if you clean it off.

So you have a fresh clutch and can't it into gear? I'd bet one of two issues.

Assuming the throwout bearing isn't backwards,

1. Have a look under the dash where the pedal connects to the rod going to the master cylinder. Wiggle the pedal up and down and look for play. Pop the pin out and inspect the rod for wear/out of round. Male sure the bushing between the two isn't worn through or completely gone.

2. Have someone pump the pedal to the floor a bunch of times without rocking the truck. Watch the firewall and master for movement. If there is any look for the "cracked firewall" or "firewall flex" threads to see the mess of a fix that digs into.

 

I got it fixed!! I replaced the slave because it was leaking. But I still was not getting enough movement from the slave to release the clutch. So I pulled off the master and the slave together and tried bleeding them as one, but the master was bad. Kept getting air in it. So I went and bought a new master. Hooked it up to the slave off of the truck and bleed it. Then I installed it all and it has never shifted this good!!

 

Great to hear.

Keep an eye on your pedal to master bushing, and the make sure the firewall doesn't start flexing. Both are very common and by the time you have to deal with them, they're nightmares.