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Ok, so I'm on my 6th, yes, sixth, count'em, 1 2 3 4 5 6 , 6th freaking M5OD clutch. Im sick to death of burning these sons of B!tchis up. I run a 1994 F150 4.9 M50D 4x2 with 33's and 2.73's. I know I know, 3.73's are on the way. I also have a flowmaster 3 chamber, no cats, K&N, and a Rancho 3" suspension. The 1st 5 clutches where on 31" tires. All 6 cltches have been gernaded with in 30,000 miles. I can't afford a ZF swap, so my question is this: is there a clutch out there that can handle the way i drive but not take the lottery to buy? I'm thinking centerforce but I have no idea which one to buy. Auto Zone and O'riley clutches are for street use only.
Might be the wrong fourm to post this but oh well.
2.73s with 33's is pretty brutal if you ask me.. Do you burn your clutch a lot or something? I just had to replace my clutch for the first time at 92k.
i used to beat the snot out of my truck with 3.08's and 32" tires, no problems with the clutch and it's a cheapo pepboys special, lasted me well over 20K miles and still goen strong (of course the 4.56 gears help a ton now ) maybe you should not be so agressive with the clutch till you get the gears in, or go to a smaller tire for now.
Smaller tires isnt happening. I just paid $700 for these and they're staying there untill im using plugs for grip. I plan to drive like my granny untill i can figure out/afford to get a new clutch but i don't know how much time i have. its ok in 1st, 2nd slips a lil, 3rd is pretty bad when acclerating hard and the same for 4th. 5th is usless to me. Its my only ride and im praying it will last a few weeks so i can afford a replacement.
Gears man, gears. your 33's and 2.73's are equivalent to stock (29" tires) and 2.3 gears (in a truck?!!!!) 5th gear is useless to you because you're not even near the power band until you're doing about 95 mph. throw in a set of 3.70's and you'll be equivalent to stock tires and 3.08's so you won't have to slip the clutch so much to get started and you won't strain it so hard once you actually get going (you're killing that thing rying to pull any sort of a hill). Go to 4.11's and you're equivalent to stock tires and 3.54's (you'll like it even more). Either get a gear set or a junkyard diff and it'll pay for itself in not having to replace the cluth in 30,000 miles and if you do it right will probably be cheaper than a hot clutch.
STOCK clutch setup: $175
4.11 gear set for an 8.8: $269
I'd spend the extra $100 for a gear set rather than smoking the clutch you have now and paying over 200 for a hot setup (that's $375 for two clutches) put a gear set in and solve the real problem.
You probably have a 10 inch clutch, if so get an 11 inch next time you replace it. Also try a Borg-Warner Heavy Duty in the 11 inch. The HD's don't cost much more than a standard but have alot more holding power plus the larger diameter will give it more surface to grip on. You don't need to change the fly wheel but make sure it's in good shape and have it resurfaced. If it's not resufaced it will eat the clutch fast.
Last edited by offroadford4x4; Sep 15, 2003 at 02:14 PM.
But if you don't already have the 11" clutch in there and do swap to it you will need to replace the whole clutch assembly for the 11" including the larger flywheel.
Actualy the flywheel is the same for both size clutches. Just the clutch disc and pressure plate are are larger. If you look at the flywheel it has a dual bolt pattern, one for each size.
Oh good info....although I haven't heard about many later model F150's using the 10" still, they are usually left for the M5ODs in the rangers aka M1 (M5OD)
Well, it's hard to believe but Ford put a 10" in my '93 I6 4x4! Soon as I found that out I slapped in an 11" pronto! Yep, it's an easy and worthwhile swap. My only problem now is the M@z!@ M5OD that is puking up its guts as we speak! A ZF will be on its way soon though.
Check in your area for a clutch specialty shop (they rebuild clutches for the trucking industry) and ask about an 11 inch ceramic clutch. I was replacing clutches once a year and after switching to ceramic and a heavy duty pressure plate have never changed since. Didn't cost any more than a normal clutch at a parts store.
For anybody who read this and hopes to do a clutch switch from 10" to 11", check your flywheel first. Apparently in the later years the flywheels were drilled for both, but my '84 was only drilled for the 10" - although I don't know if my flywheel is original either. Flywheels are also part of the engine balance - that's why they only fit one way - so if you replace it make sure it's the proper one for your engine.
When I replaced my clutch I bought both the 10" & 11" kits just in case the 11" didn't fit, which would have saved me a trip back to PepBoys if the new 10" pressure plate wasn't warped.
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