while I'm out of commission with hand surgery I'm thinking ahead about wiring

fuse panel will be tucked under dash left of column, and wiring will exit cab thru left kickpanel
question #1 what type grommet or bukhead fitting would you recommend ??

I've got the stainless steel braided pass throughs for the doors so that's taken care of...

wiring from panel to console for switches, radio,etc and to interior light and 3rd brake light, seat wiring...

question #2 do you recommend some type of "conduit" i.e . Panduit or low profile raceway OR just lay it in a cutout in the insulation (thinking about future additions if any)

plan is for dash to near rear wall console/storage, so wiring can be hidden under that and beneath carpet (probably)

wiring at the rear.. tail lights, trailer hitch, maybe backup camera, brake light switch...

question#3 anyone use any kind of raceway to the rear end of the truck ? or just clip things to the frame rails. I hate those self stick pads for cable ties..cause they never do for very long... frame is boxed from cab forward and for part of the rail under the cab. In the past I've used copper tubing or EMT conduit as a protective conduit on trailer wiring and that worked well.

engine wiring... I'd like to keep as much as possible hidden..but have lights,
hood actuators, ignition, a/c clutch, elect fan, gauge wires...

question #4.. how ya'll hide all that ?? with boxed rails hiding places are few. Maybe some low profile raceway or tubing painted frame color and attached under frame rail to exit points



open to all suggestions/comments from experienced wiring gurus. Pictures are welcome

john

 

I'm thinking that backup cam is going to have/want it's own dedicated shielded wiring.
As for my application, I'm running ATA color spec 14/7 cable from the rear forward into the cab. Just my two cents worth.
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/WT14...-7-Conductor-/

 

dang Bob, I never even thought about using multi strand cable....just thinking about individual wires excellent idea nad I thin[k I have some of that on hand from a ham rotor install Is that just 7 wire trailer cable ???

 

Yep, and it's correctly color coded too. I'll have a J-box for the individual rear truck lights, and just continue through and terminate in the trailer connector. I will be wiring mine to ATA specs, not RV specs. #7 will be switched separately in the cab for acknowledging. #5 is for electric trailer brakes.

 

John,
Just some wiring basics;
1. Plan, plan, plan
2. frosty beverage
3. lay it all out, route it like you think it needs to be - DON'T make any terminations
4. frosty beverage
5. reroute as necessary
6. repeat steps 2,3,4, and 5 for as long as you deem necessary.
7. don't forget your grounds (clean areas under grounds down to bare metal, etc)


For running the wiring down the frame the basic split loom works well and provides decent protection. Its easy enough to tuck it inside the frame rail with and occasional cable clamp to hold it in place. You could get ultra fancy and bend up some EMT to match the contours of the frame and then have it powder coated to match. Then run the wires through the conduit...LOL


Oh, try not to have any splices if you can


For terminations I typically use the standard crimp type terminals (I have a big stock of them). But, instead of crimping them (I can't stand the look of those bulky, ugly yellow, blue, and red collars) I push the terminal out of the plastic and solder the connector it to the wire in question (don't forget to put the heat shrink on the wire before soldering it all together)


For my front harness, I knew I'd be pulling the front clip off at some time so I used some Packard style weatherpac connectors (like GM uses). You can buy them in numerous configurations.



Frosty beverages and patience and it will all come together


Bobby

 

I'm running the same cable to the rear on my 53. For a clean look where the frame is boxed you could use the cable ties that have a loop at the end and attach that with a sheet metal screw.

 

Don't do what I did! I wanted to see everything working as I made my way through installing everything. I ended up with a bees nest of wiring and had to start over with much of it. On my next build, if I ever do another, all will be done as a separate project instead of installing one item and then wiring it to see it work, then on to another, then another, etc. Even with my poor attempt at wiring in the beginning, I now have it all nice and neat having done most of it twice and some of it three times. What a way to learn...

 

I like the frosty beverage part

 

My truck came with one of those cables. It worked pretty slick but the Ron Francis wiring replaced all that so I have the cable if anybody wants it PM me.

 

Debating - thinking of installing insulation before wiring. A lot of stuff has to go in a small space. windshield motor and linkage, center vent and handle, etc,, using firewall mount brakes. I figure the vintage air goes in last. I have been dabating too long on where to start. Ideas? thoughts? what has worked?

 

i did wipers first . no cowl vent, insulation next then fuse panel/wiring then a/c then upholstery

 

I will second that! Just don't do too many or the wiring will really be a mess...

 

That is a good point, if the cowl vent isn't installed that makes it easier. The Ron Francis kit had me mount the fuse panel then started with the engine compartment, then lighting and finally gauges. Actually because I installed a 4R70W electronic control transmission I did the transmission and trans controller wiring first then the engine, lighting and then gauges.

 

It's likely easier to put the cowl vent in before the glass too..

 

That's a good point John. Thanks. I was about to do that in reverse.