The front two can be done without relays, perhaps all 4 could but I don't know the amp draw for each lock motor. The relay is needed if you use more then 2 door lock switches or if the lock motor amp draw is more then the door lock switches can handle. For just 2 doors you certainly would not need a relay.
You could probably reduce the 30 amp fuse also but again I do not know the amp draw. If adding lock motors to the side and rear doors you would need to figure in voltage drop for the length and size wire used and size it accordingly. Keep in mind that the amp draw is only momentary so you don't need to size the wire at 30amps.
One could probably scavenge all the parts from a salvage yard.

Ford uses Button Connectors on the side and rear doors. I am not sure why unless it is to prevent you from locking the doors if the doors are not shut all the way. I think on newer cars they also tell you if the door is ajar.

If you only used one door lock switch on the drivers side door, you would not need to run the 3 wires to the passenger door. You would only need to run the blue and purple wire over to the passenger door and on to the side and rear doors.


Here is a video that will help with the rear door lock motor or actuator. Not sure how the side and front doors are done. It is much simpler on older vans. Many older fords have a rivet that holds the actuator mounting bracket onto the door. you have to punch the center pin out of the rivet and then drill the river head off. It looks like on the newer vans you may have to remove the door latch/lock mechanism to get the actuator rod loose from it.


I don't know how similar a 99 to 07 van is from a truck but here is a good video about replacing the actuator on a truck. It may help with figuring out how to do this on a van.

 

1990 and yes just door locks. four unlock fronts and side and back and one switch maybe on dash somewhere. Thanks joey!

 

Scratch that above drawing for now.... I need to redo it... There is no ground needed at the lock motor... The grounds should come off the back side of the LH door switch terminals B and C.. The door lock switches I used in the drawing are for a F series and that drawing would require those F series type switches..



Ill correct everything later this evening!

 

OK Thanks joey!

 

Ok this is the diagram if you were using door lock switches from a older F150 around a 88 model. Not sure what other models are compatible for the switches. In the first drawing I was thinking the actuators worked like a solenoid where one side pulls down and the other pushes up.
They are not. They are actual little motors driving a set of gears that push the lock up or down and you reverse the polarity to the motors using the switches in this diagram using F series door switches.
This system would actually require 5 wires between the 2 front doors as you would need to bring the blue and purple for the drivers door actuator back over from the passenger door. From the passenger door to the side and rear doors you would only need 2 wires with them all in series.




I'll add the other diagram below this one in a little bit.. In this drawing you will need to use 2 relays and a standard normally open momentary rocket switch. The switch could be mounted on the dash and the relays at any convenient location like perhaps behind the dash panel where you mount the switch.

This one came out very small for some reason, hope you can read it.

 

Here is yet one more diagram. If this is the correct switch then it can eliminate the relays on the single switch diagram above. This is a 12V 30 amp momentary reversing switch. That is what the relays do in the above diagram, reverse the + and -.

IF this switch would work then all you would need to do is mount the switch on the dash and feed positive and negative power to it. From the load side of the switch you just split off 2 wires over to the drivers side door lock and then 2 over to the passenger, side, and rear which would all be 2 wires in series.

here is the switch I was looking at.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...xoCUNcQAvD_BwE

Here would be the diagram for that

 

Thanks Annaleigh your the best I will try this. One more question would a factory switch work ?

 

The first top drawing is using F series truck switches.

The second drawing is using a single 3rd gen Econoline door switch and requires the 2 relays. If you plan on using 2 door lock switches, I can make up the drawing for that.. You will still need the 2 relays though.


The third diagram is using a switch that should be available from the parts store help section. That switch in the picture is a narrow one but you can also find them in the wider version or toggle switch.

If you get the ford switches from a salvage yard, you will need to get the harness so you will have the correct connectors for the switches. Also if you get the harness from a salvage yard, it will probably have the window wiring in the same harness. So if you are not installing the electric windows, you will have a bunch of extra wires.

If you only get the door lock motors/actuators from the salvage yard, be sure and get the harness door lock motors/actuator connectors so you can splice the in to the harness you will be making. Also get the 2 relays and their sockets. Not sure where they are. They may be in the drivers side kick panel.

Thanks for the kind words. I don't know about being the best though... You haven't hooked it up yet! Keep a fire extinguisher near by.
Actually this is a great community here at FTE and I ask allot of questions so I make sure I try to give back when there is a subject I might know something about. It's kind of like a family here with many different specialties and personalities. Sometimes you will see little spats from time to time but they are a great bunch of folks.

I just did a search for the amp draw on the door lock motors and found it as well as a drawing for the factory Econoline door lock wiring.The page mentions F series trucks but that is probably a carry over on the manual page so ignor the instructions for the F series. The diagram and relay pic is for a Econoline (dont say what year but it is a 3rd gen).
Says the amp draw is 6.2 per motor so figure 7amps. Remember that is only momentary though so you can downsize the wire but you still have to keep in mine the voltage drop. DC voltage drop is a lot higher then AC voltage drop. I would stick with a 30 amp fuse though. Let me know which diagram you are going to use and I will see what I can come up with about the wire size.
Ill see if I can get the drawing off the page and post it here.
http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubDa.../V2D826014.pdf


Ok here is the diagram for the Econoline with both door switches. Note In my diagram with a single factory door switch for the econoline (the second diagram), the relay states that 2 of the terminals on each relay must be grounded. I believe that is because the diagram is using relays with plastic housings.. In this drawing below they appear to be the older metal case relays and they get their ground when you screw them to the van body. Notice the relay in my drawing has 5 terminals while the relays below only have 3...

 

I think I'll go with the single switch, looks the easest to hook up.Thanks again joey!

 

fwiw, my van has factory power locks and I added the viper remote kit. Was maybe $50 from Amazon and works great. The remote has a second button that could be used to trigger something else but never used it for anything.