if there is a volt reading across the wire when cranking, there is resistance in the wiring and that resistance isn't letting the starter have all the voltage


Cant test it with out a load which is why I mentioned while cranking.

 

The 6.7 starter has better brushes for more contact area, a larger support bearing, and increased loaded speed (larger diameter pinion) but can be adapted to work on a 7.3. The cones are different so you need a 6.7 starter AND a 2 bolt 7.3 OSGR starter and you will take parts off the 7.3 so it will bolt up correctly. They are both OSGR.

The one main difference is the 6.7 starter has a higher peak stall current than the OSGR 7.3 starter but given the loaded speed is higher would make sense.

Starter wise, I have used the knock off DB electrical high torque 4.36kW, genuine Denso, TYC OSGR, Ford oem reman Mitsubishi PLGR, and 6.7mod genuine Ford. After taking apart a few Denso high torque knock offs that failed I would never get a Denso unless it was guaranteed genuine. The bearings in the look alikes are junk, brushes wear down fast, solenoids have sticking issues, and some have bendix issues.

I have noticed the Denso starter seems to loosen the starter bolts, we will see with the 6.7.

 

Thanks, I found a video about this. The cost for the 6.7 starter seams a bit pricey. I have in the past had issues with the 2 bolt getting loose. I cured that with loctite and new lock washers.

 

My wires looked like hell. I cut and cleaned up everything. coated all of them with the electrical grease. Seems to turn over faster but the engine was warm too. I need new wires they are getting too short they are tight now.

 

Good source for cables.
Not sure if we have a vendor that does this service as well.

Custom Battery Cables F350 cables

 

300.00 for a full set! ouch

 

I agree on that!!! There are other options, but I didn't have time to look them up.

I opted to just buy cable, military clamps, ring terminals, shrink tubing and a cheap hydraulic crimper. It makes some real nice cables and is one of my favorite tools.

I have built 3-4 complete setups for different rigs as well as repaired some for friends and family.

 

Order 15' of 1/0 super flex wire, ring terminals, marine batter clamps, heat shrink, solder and make your own. If you shop around you can do the for around 150

 

I didn't read the rest of the thread but those clamps are absolutely junk after a few months. The lead and copper start to oxidize and impede current flow from copper to the lead. That being said when i got my truck it had a single battery and those terminals and still started. It was slower, but still worked.

 

I've used these cables on 3 trucks now without any issues. Starting down to -1F without plugging in and no issues (used on both IDIs and Powerstrokes)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-A1...5aAa~C&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Cab...tZ-v-5&vxp=mtr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Cab...JZ~ACs&vxp=mtr

 

Great info on battery cables guys. Mine are just old and terminals at battery are kaput.

 

Honestly, good batteries and replacing all my cables (including the starter) with 3/0 cable with good clamps was one of the best things I have done on my 89 F350 IDIT.
3/0 is overkill, but in cold temps, I'll take all the help I can get...

It cranks over pretty darn fast for an old diesel.

I know, I know, not a Powerstroke... but it still applies.

This is the cable I bought:

These are the terminals I bought:

 

 

I still love my Denso!

 

Im told the TYC for the 7.3 SD is a good starter too. under 100.00 or a OSGR starter.