Replacement shocks - seeking input
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 505
Likes: 7
The Moogs are a rubber bushing.
Poly should be easier to install because you just need to cut the rubber out of the existing metal sleeve / shell and press in the poly bushing. There's a video on YouTube showing this process.
The Moogs required the entire original bushing to be removed. I used my press to push out the rubber portion first. Then I used a chisel to fold in the metal sleeve so I could push it out.
Poly vs. rubber bushings seems to be an age-old debate. I haven't used poly bushings on anything so I don't know if I like one better than the other. I only bought the Moogs because everything else I bought was Moog. For ease of installation, poly may be the way to go unless you have a press. Maybe a ball joint press would suffice for pushing them out but my hydraulic press had no problem.
As a side note, the press is probably my most useful tool. The upper pinch bolt on the driver's side knuckle rust-welded itself in and the bolt head sheared off. I used the press to push it out with very little effort. The press was like $100 at HF.
Poly should be easier to install because you just need to cut the rubber out of the existing metal sleeve / shell and press in the poly bushing. There's a video on YouTube showing this process.
The Moogs required the entire original bushing to be removed. I used my press to push out the rubber portion first. Then I used a chisel to fold in the metal sleeve so I could push it out.
Poly vs. rubber bushings seems to be an age-old debate. I haven't used poly bushings on anything so I don't know if I like one better than the other. I only bought the Moogs because everything else I bought was Moog. For ease of installation, poly may be the way to go unless you have a press. Maybe a ball joint press would suffice for pushing them out but my hydraulic press had no problem.
As a side note, the press is probably my most useful tool. The upper pinch bolt on the driver's side knuckle rust-welded itself in and the bolt head sheared off. I used the press to push it out with very little effort. The press was like $100 at HF.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 294
From: Laramie, WY
The poly beam pivot bushings and radius arm bushings tighten up the front end a bit, in my experience. I've run moog rubber and energy suspension poly bushings in both of those locations. Rubber rides more plush while poly is stiffer but I think handles tighter. Can't go wrong either way in my opinion, most importantly is to just get the old ones replaced.
On shocks, I had no luck with cheap blue colored Monroe. They were ~$20/each and leaked oil in a matter of months. Threw them in the scrap and put Bilstein 4600s on, 4 years and zero complaints. The yellow Monroe magnums are likely fine shocks too though.
If you lift the front end, the caster/camber bushings have to be changed for an alignment. You have to give up caster to get proper camber back, and this can lead to more wandering as you drive down the road. I wouldn't try 2" without dropping the beam pivot brackets and radius arm mounts. 1" is fine without drop brackets and can still maintain adequate caster for good on-center steering feel.
On shocks, I had no luck with cheap blue colored Monroe. They were ~$20/each and leaked oil in a matter of months. Threw them in the scrap and put Bilstein 4600s on, 4 years and zero complaints. The yellow Monroe magnums are likely fine shocks too though.
If you lift the front end, the caster/camber bushings have to be changed for an alignment. You have to give up caster to get proper camber back, and this can lead to more wandering as you drive down the road. I wouldn't try 2" without dropping the beam pivot brackets and radius arm mounts. 1" is fine without drop brackets and can still maintain adequate caster for good on-center steering feel.
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 550
Likes: 1
From: Arkansas
Ordered up the rubber bushes with the other parts. That poly can be squeeky, and we get enough of that with the dog toys. Have a shop press and getting it back to original spec seems like a good idea. Eliminating the overall slump from age will probably give me all I need or want, and sounds like concerns about steering geometry may be well founded. Hate to get away from the intended design. Went with the monroe gas magnums and going to try their load leveling on the rear for grins. I can see the truck getting overloaded around here with firewood, parts or towing tongue weight! Will see how they do.
Thanks for the comments, i appreciate them all.
Thanks for the comments, i appreciate them all.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 296
New shocks might raise it up 1-2'', depending on how worn out yours currently are.
I had a 94 with the oem shocks on it at around 100k. They were essentially useless at that point, and calling them worn out would be generous. Put new shocks on and I got about 2 inches of lift over where it was sitting.
I had a 94 with the oem shocks on it at around 100k. They were essentially useless at that point, and calling them worn out would be generous. Put new shocks on and I got about 2 inches of lift over where it was sitting.
Neither a standard hydraulic or a gas charged shock by itself will do any lifting. All they do is dampen suspension movement.
If your shock had some kind of spring on it, then yes, possibly....
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
Well since a gas charged shock pushes outward, it can actually slightly raise a vehicle over the ride height it wouldve had with blown or non charged shocks. I've seen this several times. Sometimes they sat up about 1/2 inch.
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 550
Likes: 1
From: Arkansas
I always measure a body point from the shop floor at all four corners before and after suspension replacement or other work. That measurement invariably increases with new suspension parts. The side to side measurements get closer , and the front to back get closer to spec. Its maybe more important on the cars, but good to indicate an idea of how worn out the vehicle was too. Will be interesting on the F 150. Think i have a dead shock too, because am hearing a clunk on drops in the field. Course' it may be something else also. Will let ya'll know.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 355
Likes: 1
From: CNY
I wasn’t saying that it lifted the truck 2” over stock. The shocks were so worn out that the truck was about 2” lower than stock. The shocks couldn’t even fully extend anymore. Putting in new shocks lifted the truck about 2”, which I’m assuming is back to stock/where it should’ve been.
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thethrill
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Sep 19, 2012 09:59 AM