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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Failed Crankshaft Pulley/Replacement

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Old Jan 12, 2018 | 06:29 PM
  #16  
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What is the best and easiest way to get the main center bolt out? I've read and watched a lot of things on line and found conflicting answers. Some people say you can wedge a wrench and crank the engine but then some people said this method was terrible and could cause much worse damage. P.S. It's 23 degrees in Tennessee right now and I've been fight the flu so I'm looking for the absolute EASIEST solution here.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2018 | 07:31 PM
  #17  
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Use an impact to take the bolt off. If you don't have one and the truck is a manual, put it in high gear and take it off with a breaker bar maybe.

With the belts on and the tranny in gear you may be able to snap it loose with a breaker bar. Jacking up the front of the truck as high as possible may give you some space underneath to work without other junk in the way.

In terms of having it all lined up, I've always LIGHTLY tapped in a circle with a hammer around the center of the pulley to get it started. Make sure the surfaces are clean, no dirt metal shavings or uneven metal.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2018 | 07:55 PM
  #18  
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The above is NOT the Ford tool (I think) but, similar. Places like Autozone, Advance, etc. sometimes have loaner tools. Or you can make one using threaded rod (same as the bolt) a few washers and a couple of nuts. Grease between the washers acts as a bearing.And, "while we are at it"....a front seal.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2018 | 10:57 PM
  #19  
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I've always used a breaker bar, wedged it against the frame, tapped the starter with the vehicle fixed where it won't start up, and the bolt has always came right loose. I did this again just a few weeks ago.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 08:02 AM
  #20  
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With the six you probably do not have much room up front. Try it and see, but I think I would drain the coolant and pull the radiator out of the way.

What I usually do, is get a scrap long piece of metal and drill one hole near the end. I then put a short bolt through this hole and thread it in one of holes in the front of the damper. Then I put another short bolt in one of the other holes. Then you can turn the engine till the scrap piece of metal comes around and hits the frame. Then that will hold the engine.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 05:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Oprah86
1986 F150 4.9L

I tried to reset my timing last week, but when I hooked up the timing light the mark on the pulley was continuously rotating and would not hold steady.

I assumed the crank pulley had slipped and planned to replace it. Today I'm driving home from work and heard a rattle from the fan hitting something.

I popped the hood and my pulley was so loose it had slipped forward (towards the grille) to the point that the fan blade was hitting the pulley.
The 300 I-6 harmonic balancer contains a triple sheave pulley.

At the factory, a rubber gasket is placed between the inner damper and outer pulley, then the three parts are pressed together forming a one piece assembly.

Over time, the rubber gasket age cracks/shrinks, causing the outer pulley to "walk away" from the inner damper.

If not noticed, the pulley could fly off, taking assorted belts along with it. Could end up in the radiator core. Not pleasant!
 
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Old Jan 13, 2018 | 05:46 PM
  #22  
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I don't know if Pioneer makes a replacement but I've had good luck with their stuff.

One time I had a 70 Nova with a 250 and it took me a while to determine the outer ring on the balancer had slipped and/or still was.....drove me bananas.
 
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