Noticed the truck was not running just quite right yesterday.
Threw it on the reader (TorquePro) and all 8 injectors were throwing 'Injector Circuit Low' codes.

TorquePro showed good voltages.
Haven't had an opportunity to test FICM at the posts yet. Outside temps are sitting below freezing.

It's been relegated to the driveway for now.

 

What were those good values?

 

They were fluctuating between 45 and 47 volts per TorquePro.

As soon as I grab some hood time I'll get numbers at the post.
And I'll throw the batteries on the charger for good measure. I'm confident they are solid, just checked them a couple of days ago.

 

Sounds like it's FICM time for you. I saw two last weekend that were dipping into the 30s sounded normal idling, but the truck wouldn't drive right for crap.

 

I'm wondering if that 45V reading was enough to trigger something.
That is the bottom of the threshold for a healthy FICM IIRC, something on the power side perhaps?

 

This cold snap is bringing out the worst in everything, as it always does.

 

Looks like its is the FICIM.

The temps on Saturday were above freezing so I decided to test the FICM and see what happens. When I pulled the hoses of the degas bottle to move it out of the way there was some pressure release. I was not expecting that at all. I also noticed that the truck was slightly warm to the touch. Much warmer than it should have been considering the temperature. That is when I remember that I left it plugged in all night. I was concerned that this would hinder the test but I proceeded anyway.

And it passed, rock solid at 47 and only dipped to 46 during 2K rpm test. I was still concerned that it wasn't a valid test so I unplugged the truck and pulled the batteries and put them on a charger and let it sit over night. FWIW the batteries were good, just a top off.

I don't think the temperature dropped below freezing morning temps were upper 30's lower 40's at the time of second test.

Sunday morning, threw the batteries back in. Ran the test again.
KOEO flucuated between 46 and 3ish before settling on 46. Wife was lowering the window at the time. I thought that might have interfered a little bit so I proceeded.
Buzz test was stable at 46
Crank - saw some flucuation
Engine on - stable at 42
I stopped at that point and pulled the FICM.

I've kind of suspected the FICM for a while now, but the truck was running ok so I just sat on it and watching things. Thursday Is the first time I noticed some tangible symptoms. I think the FICM has been JUST good enough to keep things going as long as the temps were warm enough or the truck was plugged in. When I ran test on sunday, it was JUST cold enough to stress the FICM enough to show failure.

Thank you to everyone for your input.

If you have any additional thoughts or information please add them to the conversation.

I'm assuming that FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts is the vendor of choice here?

Mike

 

Ed will treat you right for sure, there are other places that can fix them as well.
My vote would be have him put the Atlas 40 with it, most folks are happy with the results

 

Just wanted to provide a follow-up.

Ordered the FICM from FICMRepair.com
Transaction occurred as you would expect. Shipping took a little longer due to weather but it arrived eventually. One thing that caught me off guard is the fact that I didn't get my original unit back. I got a brand new one, which is fine I think but it just wasn't what I was expecting. Although I think this is referenced in the documentation on the website, it just didn't register with me at the time.

Installation turned out to be a bit of a challenge.
As instructed by FICMRepair I had my batteries and alternator bench tested. The batteries passed as expected but the alternator failed. That caught me off guard as I had not been experiencing any alternator symptoms and the volts showed good. Turns out that I think the tester at the store was failing but that started quite the chain of events.

My original alternator failed bench test. They replaced it due to lifetime warranty, the new alternator wouldn't complete test due to bad 'connectors' on the tester???? Took new alternator to different store, new alternator FAILED there as well. So this is an OBF????? Called third store, they had a replacement. Visited the third store the following day, second new alternator passed. Took it home and installed it. The new alternator made a little more noise than I was expecting but it settled down after a few minutes of run time. Since then everything is running as expected.

I thinking very hard about stepping up to one of the 180amp units with the additional wiring.

In any case, all is well. made a 500 mile run to pick up a trailer and UTV and a load of wood. between 19 and 20 MPG, I was pretty happy with that.

Watched the temps like a hawk. EOT 200 - 208 (212 once on a long/steep climb) and Coolant 198 - 208.

I'm just curious what a decent temp range would be.

Thanks for your help.
Mike

 

That is a good temp range, this engine is better off around 200* and above.
Glad you got it fixed Mike

 

@flysniper
Glad you got it worked out. What are you using to buzz test?

 

More than likely you got your unit back. Ed's people are very good
at what they do and don't want things that they fix to look ratty and
used. They put the cases through quite the process to make them
look nice and new.

Sean

 

While they bead blast them, it does not remove the corrosion pitting, which is what I used to tell that the FICM they sent me was not the 7 screw that I sent in for an upgrade, but a 4 screw return.

 

I don't have anything that is capable of running a buzz test or a contribution test. I have TorquePro (used frequently) and FORScan (free, not used at all yet) but I don't think either of those have that capability.

I'd really love to run a contribution test if nothing else for my own curiosity. To be honest, at this point I don't need to be going around looking for more issues.

 

Forscan will do the buzz test, I think it's called the injector test.
Works great......I've always found for some reason after I test something using that test it fires up with greater authority, more so than normal.

I'm guessing it's because the fuel pump has been cycled and each injector has been active.