2008 V10 - AC compressor seized, replace everything?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Montana
2008 V10 - AC compressor seized, replace everything?
I'm out getting a xmas tree with the fam a month ago, and when we get in the truck to leave the woods the truck won't turn over. The engine cranked over at first, but then winded down a stop, after that it wouldnt turn over any more. It almost sounded like it was hydrolock. There was lots of clattering and noise upfront before that but I figured it was a idler pulley or something. Anyway, we take the belt off and it starts, so I call a buddy with a trailer and he gets me home.
So, I assume it is the AC compressor, and once these are seized up, from what I've read the safe bet is to replace everything - compressor (obviously), condenser, evaporator, and canister.
Question 1, is this true? If I get "4 seasons" brand parts from rock auto, it really isn't that much more to get everything (relatively speaking), but the install effort is an investment of time that is harder to come by for me these days.
Question 2, how much effort to replace the evaporator? I figure the compressor, condenser and canister shouldn't be too much trouble, but the evaporator concerns me a bit.
Thanks,
Scott
So, I assume it is the AC compressor, and once these are seized up, from what I've read the safe bet is to replace everything - compressor (obviously), condenser, evaporator, and canister.
Question 1, is this true? If I get "4 seasons" brand parts from rock auto, it really isn't that much more to get everything (relatively speaking), but the install effort is an investment of time that is harder to come by for me these days.
Question 2, how much effort to replace the evaporator? I figure the compressor, condenser and canister shouldn't be too much trouble, but the evaporator concerns me a bit.
Thanks,
Scott
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Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Bellville TX.
Just did mine on my Tahoe.
get a NEW compressor. “DONT PLAY” parts are NOT that difficult to replace. Get a Vcume pump you can get ok ones for about 80.00. And do it your self.
get a NEW compressor. “DONT PLAY” parts are NOT that difficult to replace. Get a Vcume pump you can get ok ones for about 80.00. And do it your self.
AC repairmen are almost impossible to find. “Good ones that is”
you will need to replace the orifice tube/filter. They may try to sell you some flush....be on the lookout for Black tar “ I think that’s what its called” if you see Crap in the system you will have to replace everything....and I do mean everything....
let your vac pump evacuate the system for quite a while. “You wlll know” get a set of gauges. You can get them for about 100.00
as you know. AC has been changed again...I forget what the new stuff is called.....
do your self a favor and do it yourself...
there are a ton of YouTube videos
best of luck
1. YES its true.
2. Not sure on your truck
1 you will need special tools, vac pump, AC Guages...
2. You will need to replace ALL SEALS.. WATCH for seals that are FOR YOUR TYPE OF AC....r134, r12....CANT GET THEM MIXED UP.....
you will need to replace the orifice tube/filter. They may try to sell you some flush....be on the lookout for Black tar “ I think that’s what its called” if you see Crap in the system you will have to replace everything....and I do mean everything....
let your vac pump evacuate the system for quite a while. “You wlll know” get a set of gauges. You can get them for about 100.00
as you know. AC has been changed again...I forget what the new stuff is called.....
do your self a favor and do it yourself...
there are a ton of YouTube videos
best of luck
1. YES its true.
2. Not sure on your truck
1 you will need special tools, vac pump, AC Guages...
2. You will need to replace ALL SEALS.. WATCH for seals that are FOR YOUR TYPE OF AC....r134, r12....CANT GET THEM MIXED UP.....
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Montana
Thanks for the info @Lawnpro979,
I'm quite certain this is r134a. I'm not sure there is much past 96 that has r12.
I just found some info that says you can get the evaporator out via the engine bay, so maybe it isn't terrible.
Would you even replace the lines?
I'm quite certain this is r134a. I'm not sure there is much past 96 that has r12.
I just found some info that says you can get the evaporator out via the engine bay, so maybe it isn't terrible.
Would you even replace the lines?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 337
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From: Bellville TX.
NO. Only if you find evidence of junk in the system....
also there is a flush. I didn’t flush mine. It’s a liquid ya pore in then blow it out with compressed air, but if you blow it then your inviting moisture in the system...
also there is a flush. I didn’t flush mine. It’s a liquid ya pore in then blow it out with compressed air, but if you blow it then your inviting moisture in the system...
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Joined: Jul 2017
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The compressor and the canister for sure. The canister is a receiver/drier and contains desiccant. I treat those as single-use items to be replaced any time the system is cracked open.
As to the rest of the parts, depends on what happened and if there is crud in the system. Not sure I would gamble on a flush to get it out, but if the rest of the system is clean, no reason to replace evaporator, condenser, or lines. Replace any o-ring or seal you crack open, paying attention to the refrigerant compatibility (looks like you know that already). I would not replace all seals, only the ones you need to open up; I'm assuming the system worked fine until the compressor died.
One final thought... If the clutch or a bearing froze up, then the system itself should still be clean and fine. Is it holding its charge of freon even though the compressor is mechanically frozen? Momentary release one of the fill valves and find out (don't frostbite your fingers).
As to the rest of the parts, depends on what happened and if there is crud in the system. Not sure I would gamble on a flush to get it out, but if the rest of the system is clean, no reason to replace evaporator, condenser, or lines. Replace any o-ring or seal you crack open, paying attention to the refrigerant compatibility (looks like you know that already). I would not replace all seals, only the ones you need to open up; I'm assuming the system worked fine until the compressor died.
One final thought... If the clutch or a bearing froze up, then the system itself should still be clean and fine. Is it holding its charge of freon even though the compressor is mechanically frozen? Momentary release one of the fill valves and find out (don't frostbite your fingers).
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Cross-Country
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From: Montana
This is interesting....
I had clattering and rattling before this occurred, and my AC had stopped working prior to that. Was working great one day, then all of a sudden didn't.
Could this issue be limited to the clutch assembly?
I guess I had better put it in the shop and pull the compressor to find out. It's just parked behind 3 feet of snow right now.
Could this issue be limited to the clutch assembly?
I guess I had better put it in the shop and pull the compressor to find out. It's just parked behind 3 feet of snow right now.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
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From: St Louis
95% likely that your compressor's clutch plate was falling apart and you went too long in addressing it so pulley bearing finally failed.
Been there, done that, got the ride home on the AAA flatbed.
Been there, done that, got the ride home on the AAA flatbed.
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From: Montana
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From: Montana
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