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Engine block heater triggering gfi

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Old 12-31-2017, 07:52 PM
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Engine block heater triggering gfi

Hey guys.

Anyone ever have a engine block heater that triggers the gfi?

I have used this outlet at least a dozen other times this year. As recently as 2 weeks ago. Today every time I plug it in it immediately trips the gfi. Other items I plug in there work just fine.

Any ideas what is up?

Thank you.
 
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Old 12-31-2017, 08:50 PM
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Old 01-01-2018, 06:12 AM
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Thank you. I searched for engine block heater triggering gfi. I should have used the word throwing. Ha ha.

Thank you. I will try to track down that connector.
 
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Old 01-01-2018, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Redrockerstl55
Hey guys.

Anyone ever have a engine block heater that triggers the gfi?

I have used this outlet at least a dozen other times this year. As recently as 2 weeks ago. Today every time I plug it in it immediately trips the gfi. Other items I plug in there work just fine.

Any ideas what is up?

Thank you.
GFCI's work by sensing the current difference between the hot and neutral wires. In other words, if there is 9 amps flowing in the black wire, but only 8.994 amps flowing back through the neutral wire, a properly operating GFCI should trip. They are required to trip by 5 milliamps, which is very low current.

If there is a current difference between the hot and neutral, it means there is "leakage" somewhere, and that leakage could be flowing through you.

Some heating elements are known for "leaking" a very small amount of current (but over 5 mA's) which poses no real risk as long as it is going directly back to ground (not through you), but your GFCI won't like it.

When checking your heater element for resistance be sure to check for any continuity between each of the terminals and the heater element body. There should be absolutely no continuity (meter reads OL) between either of the two flat leads and the block heater body, and there should be continuity between the round pin (ground) and the body of the block heater. It doesn't take very much moisture to allow 5 mA's to flow at 120 volts.
 
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Old 01-01-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dieseldrive
GFCI's work by sensing the current difference between the hot and neutral wires. In other words, if there is 9 amps flowing in the black wire, but only 8.994 amps flowing back through the neutral wire, a properly operating GFCI should trip. They are required to trip by 5 milliamps, which is very low current.

If their is a current difference between the hot and neutral, it means there is "leakage" somewhere, and that leakage could be flowing through you.

Some heating elements are known for leaking a very small (but over 5 mA's) which poses no risk, but your GFCI won't like it.

When checking your heater element for resistance be sure to check for any continuity between each of the terminals and the heater element body. There should be absolutely no continuity (meter reads OL) between either of the two flat leads and the block heater body, and there should be continuity between the round pin (ground) and the body of the block heater. It doesn't take very much moisture to allow 5 mA's to flow at 120 volts.
Very nicely said, thank you.
 
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