Thanks guys! I’m starting to lean to the regulated fuel return set up, in my own brain it makes great sense. Will help with cooler fuel in the cylinder heads, since there would be constant flow through the heads instead of dead headed fuel heat soaking before it gets used. Lifters are definitely on the to do list, but again more money than I anticipated. But I don’t want to pull my cab and heads in another 30k to change them. So far the low pressure oil pump looks perfect. The pressure relief valve is clean and has zero markings that would indicate any metal parts getting jammed in to it. Front plugs already here, stand pipes came with the heads. STC and BPD WP done less than 20k ago. On the RR fuel system, I could wait on it because pulling the cab is easier than pulling the turbo and up pipes. I’m thinking pushrods also, maybe they are stronger? And shorter due to the reman heads being shortened in height? Cylinder bores have better crosshatch and less lip than I have ever seen on any engine I’ve ever had to tear in to in my life(at least 200, since I’ve been wrenching for a living). I know the original owner took real good care of the truck as far as maintenance. I received all records after warranty ended. I will be checking the crank and rod bearings this weekend when I head to work to reseal the lower end. I expect them to be near perfect. Does any one have a parts list for the RR fuel kit DIY style, by chance? This truck pains me because I have no time to work her, while at work, and I have to stare at it all damn day. Still not on the wagon that i need or want to oring the heads, as i will be running an extremely mild tune with only a turbo back straight pipe Mbrp exhaust and a cat, and the originals lasted 240k without studs, always hauling, and moderately tuned. I enjoy and appreciate all the input still!

 

Got the whole bottom end sealed up. Heads are sitting in thier new homes. But I got to looking at regulated fuel return systems, not so much need because I am keeping the truck mild. I am now very interested in the fuel crossover, which connects both cylinder heads in the rear to equalize fuel pressure. Trying to find good thoughts and experience on this? Maybe even a place to get this quickly. As I am finally headed back together after a lot of down time. Please help with any feedback!

 

I have the fuel rail crossover and it works good. My idle is smooth even with bigger injectors.

 

I personally never understood the use of this item. IMO if you' re going through that much trouble then why not just cap it with a regulator and tie it into the return side? Mild to wild I am certain that a RR is advantageous over a fuel line that extends the deadheading by 18".
Just my opinion


Good luck

 

The more I get to thinking about it. I’m just gonna drop the cab on for now. Running out of money. Im going to go with the RR setup down the road. I was looking at the paper inside of my injectors, says fuel pressure under load should not drop under 45psi when tested at the test port of the fuel bowl on an f series. And it also states to test the e series van from the back of the cylinder head and it should not drop below 38psi. Otherwise damage of injectors can happen. I get the damage portion, but I see proof that there is a 7psi drop from the OE regulator to the rear of the cylinder head that definitely has made me decide to go with the RR setup eventually. Thanks guys for all the input. Anybody have a recommendation on a kit brand? Or do most people lean towards build your own?

 

Your cost should be under $100 at a hydraulic shop. 1 90º 1 "T" a cap and
some hose. The hose I would get in stainless steel teflon lined and the 2
fittings would need an O-ring seal on the head side. The hose you can get with
AN flair fittings and the same with the cap on the end that you can tuck away
for later use.

 

Thanks Yahiko! That’s more of what I was thinking about doing. A cross over with a cap/plug so I can use this later for RR setup. Thank you kind sir. Now to find a hydraulic shop to suit my fancy.

 

Don't forger it is most likely metric on the head side.

 

The fuel rail crossover is a regulated return. It doesn't have an adjustable regulator but it comes with different springs to set the pressure you want. The other more expensive regulated return kits aren't really needed until you are making over 500 hp.