EGR question
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EGR question
i just took my egr off and the valve still moves with vacuum but is not completely sealed when shut. Is this normal? Should I be able to blow air from one port to the other with very low force or is the valve bad?
if I do need a new one, how do I tell which one I need? Everyone seems to have 5 or 6 choices with no explaination as to which one works.
77 f100, 302, 4 speed manual, fed emissions, no a/c
if I do need a new one, how do I tell which one I need? Everyone seems to have 5 or 6 choices with no explaination as to which one works.
77 f100, 302, 4 speed manual, fed emissions, no a/c
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Pasadena, Ca
If you want the exact correct one that you will know will work for your calibration and setup, look at the ones that NumberDummy posted in your other thread. If those turn out to be too expensive, get one from Autozone that is manual and fed.
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Sorry, I forgot that numberdummy already gave me those. I may just JBWeld the sucker shut for now so it looks like it is hooked up.
It has been a long day. I replaced the intake manifold and the valve cover gaskets which were leaking really badly.
It has been a long day. I replaced the intake manifold and the valve cover gaskets which were leaking really badly.
I went to reinstall the distributor and while repositioning it the oil pump shaft got out of whack. It is sittting in the correct hole on the top, but is not in the oil pump on the bottom. I’ve tried using a magnet to fish it out but the head on my magnet is too big. Going to try to find a smaller one tomorrow or I guess I’ll be dropping the pan.
I’m starting to wonder if I should just yank the engine and rebuild it given that I know nothing about its past. I do know that it is an 87 block with a 75 intake. Not sure what the heads are, but they used to have smog tubes out the back side. I did get a spare set of 75 heads. That I may take in and get cleaned up.
I’m starting to wonder if I should just yank the engine and rebuild it given that I know nothing about its past. I do know that it is an 87 block with a 75 intake. Not sure what the heads are, but they used to have smog tubes out the back side. I did get a spare set of 75 heads. That I may take in and get cleaned up.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Pasadena, Ca
A stuck open EGR valve will cause problems, and a closed EGR valve will cause problems.
I understand the frustrations, take the night off from working on it. Is there a reason that you need to get this all back together?
In all reality, 99% of the smog techs wont know what to look for as far as smog equipment. They won't remove your air cleaner, or check to see if it seals.
I passed Ca smog with my vacuum lines hooked up wrong, my egr was clogged, my distributor wires crumbling. All I did was rebuild the carb, set the timing, oil change, plugs, wires, cap n rotor. I also paid $100 for the guy to take the time to smog it, as we adjusted it until it passed. And I did an initial test, went home made changes and then went back within 7 days for a retest.
I removed my heads and did the stem seals and lifters AFTER I passed smog.
Forget changing the heads, just get it to run, then make improvements from there, then go get it smogged!!
I posted a list for your year of what they will look for, beyond that they wont know or dont care. Your vacuum hose routing is not checked, it is just looked at that there are no unplugged hoses.
Turn your head and cough, it is easy as that.
I understand the frustrations, take the night off from working on it. Is there a reason that you need to get this all back together?
In all reality, 99% of the smog techs wont know what to look for as far as smog equipment. They won't remove your air cleaner, or check to see if it seals.
I passed Ca smog with my vacuum lines hooked up wrong, my egr was clogged, my distributor wires crumbling. All I did was rebuild the carb, set the timing, oil change, plugs, wires, cap n rotor. I also paid $100 for the guy to take the time to smog it, as we adjusted it until it passed. And I did an initial test, went home made changes and then went back within 7 days for a retest.
I removed my heads and did the stem seals and lifters AFTER I passed smog.
Forget changing the heads, just get it to run, then make improvements from there, then go get it smogged!!
I posted a list for your year of what they will look for, beyond that they wont know or dont care. Your vacuum hose routing is not checked, it is just looked at that there are no unplugged hoses.
Turn your head and cough, it is easy as that.
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Much better morning. I used a Burger King straw to slide over the oil pump shaft and fish it out. Got it back in place and the engine put back together. It now idles somewhat lone it should. Need to get a timing light and set that now.
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dada
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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