Didnt quite know where to post this question, so I apologize if its in the wrong place.

I have a "Service Engine Soon" light on in my 1999 F250 SD 4x4. Its out of warranty and I had it checked by a local shop. They got the codes and they say its a "stuck closed" EGR valve.

Now then to my issue, I was quoted 400-600 bucks to get it fixed. Problem is two-fold. One, I don't have the $. Two, I don't see any performance changes. MPH are the same, drives the same, sounds the same.

What problems can I get into if I drive it like this?

What exactly does an EGR do and why is it there? Pollution crap?

Thanks for any light you can shed on this.

Vinny

 

You didn't mention which engine you have, but in general EGRs are usually near the back of the engine and tap off the exhaust manifold and feed into the intake.

They use a diaphram to control the valve, the diaphram is usually about 3 inches in diameter and relatively flat and has vacuum lines connected to it. The EGR itself is usually cast iron and has the diaphram looking like a hat on it. The whole thing should easily fit in your hand.

IF you can get at it they are easy to replace. The part usually costs less than $100(could be a lot more if yours is unusual).

Some of them can be cleaned out with a good carbon remover, like carb cleaner etc. Some actually have a window you can open to shoot some cleaner at the valve. I have sometimes been able to restore proper operation without removing the valve by "exercising" the diaphram with a vacuum pump. I am guessing this forces the needle valve to move to the full extent of travel and scrape off the carbon.

Sometimes all that is wrong with them is that they have a vacuum leak somewhere in the vacuum lines. My wife's van had that and it took me awhile to find the crumbly old hose since it was hidden from view. Cost of her repair, 3 hours of looking and testing with a vacuum pump and guage and 10 cents for the hose.

Some gotchas to look for are some use a very thin metal gasket that can drop into nowhere, many kits do not include the gasket so don't loose it. Some of the exhaust gas tubes become brittle after age and will crumble when you remove the EGR, so be prepared to replace that too.

If it is right on top and easy to get at, do it yourself. If it is hidden underneath a lot of stuff, maybe it is worth a garage doing it. On a chebby it takes 15min. I haven't needed to do my 460 yet.


The EGR recirculates exhaust gases into the intake to cool the combustion temperatures which decreases nitrogen oxides, if I recall my reading on this subject.

I have not heard of anything terrible that can happen if your EGR is stuck closed. But if stuck open it could make the engine run rough or be hard to start. A sticky valve will also confuse the computer and it might decresae your mileage and power a little. Main problem I think is that it won't pass a smog test.

I would think that since it is pollution gear, if you are under the 80K mile warranty for pollution gear you should be able to get it replaced under warranty. My chebby club had lots of member cars stumbling due to faulty EGR and GM did a recall/service bulletin and replaced all the EGRs if they failed anytime under 100K miles.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

Jim,

Thanks for the reply. Very informative. I have the V-10 and when I looked around for it, it looks like its in the center of the engine WAAAAAAY in the back!

I saw that and a buddy says thats it.......I said, I'll never get to that thing!

Maybe that why the shop was gonna stick me so hard.

I will crawl up there tonite and see exactly how bad it is.

Thanks,

Vinny

 

Please don't get ripped off....You can put your hand under the diaphram and push up to see if its stuck. I havn't seen one stuck.when you push it up the engine will run rough..you can put a vacuum tester pump on it to see if it opens....The egr costs less than $100 anyway..Most problems are assc with the sensor that senses flow. stainless line from exhaut follow up to two small lines that go to it..Most guys have had good luck replacing this problem valve.....to replace egr valve should cost you no more than 1 hour labor and $100.00 part....

 

99 is right ,they are trying to rip you!

Its not that hard to change it ,get yourself a manual ,you can get the codes from autzone for free ,post them here and we could help you with them.

Now if the codes are putting to lower intake gaskets or something like that ,it might well be a fair price .

Let us know will help

Rich

 

Thanks guys,

The codes I got are 70) DTC PO401...insufficient flow

71) DTC P1408...flow out of range.

Thats off of the print out from the shop.

I called the dealership and they said the EGR falls into the 3/36 warranty so thats not an option.

Like I posted in the beggining I have seen no problems with the engine performance. I put the MPH is the same but it should read MPG. The only thing I'm worried about is if it makes the engine run fine but is actually wearing something critical out...that would stink.

The valve looks like a major PITA to get too unless I disassemble the entire throttle body....I can't do that. I will take off the K&N intake and see what I can see. Thats a 2-3 beer job in itself

Vinny

 

"The codes I got are 70) DTC PO401...insufficient flow

71) DTC P1408...flow out of range."

Could be the DPFE. 99, you remember that guy about a month ago that had the V10 with the same problem? We told him to clean egr passages in the throttle body. He did but he reported back that he had to change the DPFE sensor to get rid of the codes.

 

I'd put my money on the DPFE sensor. My SES light was on too and it still ran fine also. I got a code P0401 also. I tested my EGR with a vacume pump and it worked fine(basicaly killed the motor when I pulled vacume on it). Dealer said that they sometimes replace 3 DPFE sensors per day. They updated the sensor after the 99 model year supposedly. I replaced mine and got the code cleared to kill the light and havent seen the light since. The sensor was around $50 at the dealer.

 

sorry stepped out for a minute,yep the guys are telling you the correct stuff
There are 4 things that cause these codes

1)DPFE sensor
2)EGR vacum control valve
3)Plugged lines running to sensor
4)egr itself

In that order most of the time
after you change any of this you must disconnect the battery to reset your chk eng light

Rich

 

I found the Valve and the sensor assembly. It doesn't look that bad to get to. A couple of brackets to remove and I should have decent access.

I would like to try and replace the parts myself, starting with the DPFE Sensor, but (I hate to admit it), I don't own a manual for this truck. I called around and found a Hans(?).... It was too generic for me. Is a Chiltons more detailed? What would be a good manual for a "intermediate at best" skill level? Probably more like "Entry" level.

Thanks for your help fellas,

Vinny

 

Cd on ebay under ten bucks

 

Just a quick update on my problem. I decided to take a look at the DPFE sensor and replace it on Sat. It was much easier to get to than it looks once I climbed up and laid across the motor.

Anyway, I take it off and run up to the parts store, (3 actually), and no one stocks it....Bummer! So now I have to go back and re-install the darn thing.

Before I put it back on, I decide to take a closer look at it and I pry the little cover off and find a little spongy filter thingy and there is some electronic crap down in the bottom. I figure what the h***, so I cleaned the filter thingy and shoot some PB Blaster down to the electrical stuff. I re-install the sensor. Disconnect the battery and start the engine...No light!

I have now put around 75 miles on it...driving it like I stole it and still no light. I'm driving around watching the dang dash, waiting for it to come on at anytime, but not yet?

Anyone else ever do this?

BTW, Thanks guys for the guidance, you guys ROCK!!

Vinny

 

Forgot to tell you!!! dealer item only I think....

 

Ok, SES light came back on and I head to the dealership to get the DPFE sensor. They "give" me one for $110.00 and when I look at it, its not the same thing I was fooling around with in earlier post (BONEHEAD!).

Any way I installed it yesterday, and the light came right back on.

In addition to my SES, I now have a (ABS) light illuminated and the truck shifts like H*&%. I have it in the shop for that.

If I follow FortyFords advice, my next step would be the EGR vacuum control valve........Can anyone give me a description of what this looks like and where it may be found?

Thanks

Vinny

 

I thought I remembered seeing a post on the problem with the ABS light. That speed sensor on top of the rear axel. I could be wrong but I thought someone had the hard/rough shifting problems along with the ABS light too. As for the SES light, I had my code cleared at the dealership(just cause they did it for free). I haven't seen my light since(about 10,000 mi). The dealer told me that the OBDII system on our trucks won't clear by just unhooking the battery(and the light will come on again). I would trust the guy's on the site here more though and they say it will clear by the battery disconnect. I'm not at all saying who's right or wrong (you know how dealers are) but maybe there is some truth to it. Have you tried testing your EGR valve with a vacume pump? I am pretty sure that the you can find the vacume control valve by simply following the vacume line off of the EGR valve itself and I think it is on the passenger side to the back right of the intake. Please correct me if I'm wrong guy's. thanks