I would follow these steps:
1. Use synthetic oil.
2. Check all GPs. Also use a meter to make sure they are getting full voltage.
3. Unhook, clean and rehook all connections at the battery, starter and possibly the negative grounds on the block.
4. Add a ground from a starter bolt to the frame.
5. Fully charge both batteries

If it still doesn't fire easily then do these and test starting in between:
1. Remove starter and either disassemble/clean/lube it, or just install a new one.
2. Replace the positive battery cable. I believe they sell one for our vehicles at O'Rielly's.
3. Seriously consider replacing your batteries with higher CCA ones.
4. Check the timing on your IP. I believe there is a user over on oilburners.net that rents a meter if you don't have the tools.

I will time how long my WTS light stays on along with the temperature and report back. Remember, mine has a 120K mile IP/injector setup on it and I haven't touched the timing since I installed it so it is not starting quite like it used to. You may have to glow it for a few more seconds. The controller also has an afterglow that quickly cycles the plugs for a brief period of time after the WTD light goes out.

Also, does your truck idle higher than normal until it warms up. There is a high idle/timing advance sensor that is supposed to help with starting and warm-up. While it helps, it is not needed to start. Mine was non-functional for a couple years and I never had any issues......this seems to be most people experience.

I know that most people don't say much about the IP and cold starts, but with my first IP I always had cold start issues until I replaced it. After replacing the IP and injectors mine fired immediately. It has now begun to fire slower. Timing becomes retarded as the IP wears, so this could be a cause.

I am by no means the IDI Guru. I'm just a decent shade tree guy, so there are many more knowledgeable people on this forum. Hopefully they will jump in if I missed anything.

 

lets see if these work.
bad starter at 70 degrees:
http://vid41.photobucket.com/albums/...8/DSCF0070.mp4
good starter at 40 degrees:
http://vid41.photobucket.com/albums/...8/DSCF0080.mp4

 

So I watched these and I wasn't able to start my truck earlier today so I'm pretty sure it is the starter. Anyone have any links or suggestions to what kind of starter I should replace mine with?

 

i have used both an Autozone starter and. Power Master starter. The issue that I had with the Autozone ones were that they didnt always engage the flywheel and would grind when attempting to start. The benefit to them is that they usually come with a lifetime warrenty.

I am currently running a Power Master starter and am very happy with it. It havent had the grinding issue since I switched and it is an off set design so it is a little smaller and easier to handle during installation and removal.

Either 1 could work for you.

 

So let's just say hypothetically it's not the starter... What would the problem possibly be?

 

There are only a few things that it could be. You have to look at the mechanics of what is takes for the diesel to run. Basically, you have to have enough heat for the diesel fuel to combust. Compression also helps with this. Quickly compressing the air produces heat. Doing the same with air that has fuel in it puts stress on the fuel and encourages it to combust as well. So with this in mind there are only a few things that cause a no start:

1. Glow plugs are not providing enough heat. This could come from burnt out plugs, a wiring issue getting voltage to the GPs or a bad controller.

2. The starter is not turning the engine over fast enough to create the heat/stress on the fuel to make it combust. A slow turning starter is either a bad starter or an issue getting it the voltage it needs (weak batteries, bad cables, bad grounds)

3. Fuel delivery. If the fuel system is badly worn it can affect when the fuel will be delivered into the cylinder to be combusted.

Larger issues, such as bad cylinded compression due to wear can also cause an issue, but is much less common and since your runs fine when warm I highly doubt it is the issue.

 

weak batteries, or bad battery cables.

 

i do not use store starters, i have a local rebuilder up the road from me that does very good work, for less that a store bought rebuild would cost.

 

So I do have a small short in one cable it's a yellow one that has a little box attaching then together with flat pins that go in it. Sometimes when I turn on my lights or signal it cuts power and dies. Not sure of that'll have anything to do with it but I looked up replacing the wiring harness and that costs so much to do.im clueless when it comes to wirework but if anyone could give light on that it would be helpful.
Anyways, I would just have to replace some wires, check my batteries and see how much power they have, test the starter and the alternator, and the gplugs to see if they're getting enough power?

 

The glow plug system must be in great shape if you expect it to start...

Pretty sure those two yellow wires are the power to the glow plugs...

This picture from the topic above you shows it clearly - someone replaced the original, failure-prone connection with bullet connectors.

Alternately, just get a piece of 2ga cable and wire straight from the battery to the battery terminal on the glow plug controller(that's the big terminal that does /not/ have the squiggley metal strip attached).

Then, once that's all fixed, go through all your glow plugs. Test each with a wire: One end of the wire to the Battery + terminal, and touch the other end to the glow plug terminal(disconnect the glow plug wire first). If you get a spark, it's good. No spark = replace it.