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Many codes-warning lights

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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 08:33 AM
  #1  
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Many codes-warning lights

Hey guys, last week on way to work, my '15 6.7 suddenly stumbled, then started growing up seemingly every warning light and error message on the dash. Speedo, odometer, rpm and all gauges quit, then received low oil pressure, engine over temp, tire pressure, etc. - messages one after another, then check engine. Pulled over killed engine and wouldn't restart immediately- computer seemed dead. But headlights, warning flashers did work. The truck finally restarted and I drove straight to dealer, with all the DIC warnings and check engine on- I was confident engine was fine. Truck has 66k miles and an extended warranty fortunately.

Dealer called next day and told me what I figured about the codes thrown, but that predominant code seemed to be low battery voltage- but batteries check out ok. So the mechanic reset codes, test drove and got a coolant sensor code which was where they were going to focus it seemed. That was Friday and I have not heard back.

Any ideas? My uneducated guess would be a bad ground/connection to computer, but that's a SWAG.

Any and all thoughts appreciated.

Mike
 
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael53
Hey guys, last week on way to work, my '15 6.7 suddenly stumbled, then started growing up seemingly every warning light and error message on the dash. Speedo, odometer, rpm and all gauges quit, then received low oil pressure, engine over temp, tire pressure, etc. - messages one after another, then check engine. Pulled over killed engine and wouldn't restart immediately- computer seemed dead. But headlights, warning flashers did work. The truck finally restarted and I drove straight to dealer, with all the DIC warnings and check engine on- I was confident engine was fine. Truck has 66k miles and an extended warranty fortunately.

Dealer called next day and told me what I figured about the codes thrown, but that predominant code seemed to be low battery voltage- but batteries check out ok. So the mechanic reset codes, test drove and got a coolant sensor code which was where they were going to focus it seemed. That was Friday and I have not heard back.

Any ideas? My uneducated guess would be a bad ground/connection to computer, but that's a SWAG.

Any and all thoughts appreciated.

Mike
The large harness/plug above the parking brake is probably loose. Seems to be the major culprit posted by others. Especially if one uses the parking brake a lot.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 11:11 AM
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Ok, thanks. That makes sense I use the parking regularly. I'll pass that along if they don't figure it out today.

You gotta love this forum- it seems always to come thru in a pinch.

Mike
 
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Old Dec 21, 2017 | 08:21 AM
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Dealer still has the truck- cannot find any cause for all the codes and fail to start. Said they looked at the indicated harness/plug but it did not appear to be the cause. They said they can keep and comtinue driving or I can come get it. I'm not thrilled about driving a truck that could leave me stranded in the middle of Upper Pennisula Michigan during a night drive thru a blizzard.
Very frustrated. I'm going to insist they contact Ford for guidance. Not sure what else.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2017 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael53
Dealer still has the truck- cannot find any cause for all the codes and fail to start. Said they looked at the indicated harness/plug but it did not appear to be the cause. They said they can keep and comtinue driving or I can come get it. I'm not thrilled about driving a truck that could leave me stranded in the middle of Upper Pennisula Michigan during a night drive thru a blizzard.
Very frustrated. I'm going to insist they contact Ford for guidance. Not sure what else.
Well, if it were me; I would get under the dash myself, dis-connect said plug, then re-connect and make SURE for myself that it is properly connected. Then re-locate the plug to a different location where the vibration from releasing the parking brake would not affect it. Said proceedure seems to have cured the issue in “most” cases.
Best of luck to you.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2017 | 11:36 AM
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I'll pickup the truck in AM and do just that. Thanks
 
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Old Dec 21, 2017 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 99150
Well, if it were me; I would get under the dash myself, dis-connect said plug, then re-connect and make SURE for myself that it is properly connected. Then re-locate the plug to a different location where the vibration from releasing the parking brake would not affect it. Said proceedure seems to have cured the issue in “most” cases.
Best of luck to you.
I agree with this, especially, the unplug-re-plug part. Dealer may have just eye-balled it. In other cases on this website, that was the actions that those folks took.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2017 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by djousma
I agree with this, especially, the unplug-re-plug part. Dealer may have just eye-balled it. In other cases on this website, that was the actions that those folks took.
Reps intended!! gotta spread ‘em around more!!!
 
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Old Dec 24, 2017 | 12:27 AM
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Even with the locking lever fully engaged on this plug and "looking" to be problem free, unplugging and replugging has solved the issue for me every time I have tried it - given the exact same symptoms.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 02:03 PM
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This same problems occurred on my 15 DRW. Left me stranded on the highway. Completely dead, no crank.....
The dealer could not figure it out, a call to Ford engineering steered them the right direction. The ground under the dash has like 6 wires going to it, essentially every item under the dash is on one central ground. It loosened up from road vibration, parking brake, set and release. They tightened that, supposedly “checked” the connector, cleared 13 codes it threw, basically the entire network was not communicating. Hasn’t done that since then.

-Mark
 
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