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Has anyone worked on the switch itself? Like to install a new cancel piece or something?
What's wrong with mine is that the stalk sags downward, ever so slightly, and that action causes the contacts to come out of contact, which results in my left rear brake light not coming on! (And that bulb fails to flash when the hazards are on as well.) If I lift the stalk slightly, the LR brake light will come on, and that bulb will flash with the hazards.
So what I think my switch needs is just to be tightened up, where the stalk pivots with that plastic cancel cam. From my research, whatever fastens the pivoting pieces comes out when you replace the plastic canceler, and gets replaced by a screw? How does it come apart?
I'd like to fix this since I think I caused it by being too lazy to remove the stalk when I swapped the column into my new cab...
And I don't want to resort to the hackish fix I dreamed up, which would be to install a light spring, heavy enough to hold up the stalk 1/32nd" or whatever.
Spring might be better than the rubber bands that I was thinking of though!
Could it just need a waves-spring under the lever? Might be a simple fix.
Never had one apart to fix unfortunately, so just guessing at anything. Always just replace them anytime they turn foul and give you trouble.
I think the good reasoning for that is that by the time they're giving you this trouble the other bits are likely to fail in the not too distant future anyway. So just fixing one issue and then putting it back together with all the other old parts is asking for trouble.
Not that it would be too hard to do, and only needs to have the steering wheel pulled. So if you had to do it all again next year it's not like the end of the world.
But you can still see why most would just replace it out of hand.
I had this aggravation with my turn signal and I'm sure I'm not the only one. Your problem is likely the common one, where the little contacts inside the switch get worn down by the rod that rubs over them as you activate the switch. If you want to dismantle the switch I'm pretty sure you can pry on the cam piece, after removing the turn lever, and it will come out of there. But, I don't think in the end it will do you much good. In my experience the only real reliable fix for your problem is to replace the whole switch. It's really not a big job.
Last one I fixed had similar issues, hit a bump and the left blinker came on, sometimes the right worked, sometimes it didn't, never canceled, etc. I think the whole switch assy. was maybe $15 on ebay for a new repro., and it looked to be as good quality-wise as the one that came out (but the old one might have been a cheap repro. as well, no history on this pickup). Pop the wheel off, 3 screws, and fight the plug loose, wash, rinse, repeat, maybe 45 minutes?
The new one I got was for an auto, maybe they all come that way, the only difference I could see was the "extra" circuit and bulb assy. for the light in the gear indicator, I popped the connector apart and took it out - you could just cut the wire, or add a neat under-dash light.
Could it just need a waves-spring under the lever? Might be a simple fix.
I'm liking that idea!
Originally Posted by JakeHan
The new one I got was for an auto, maybe they all come that way, the only difference I could see was the "extra" circuit and bulb assy. for the light in the gear indicator, I popped the connector apart and took it out - you could just cut the wire, or add a neat under-dash light.
Ah, so you're saying that you put an automatic spec'ed switch into a manual transmission column/truck?
I like that idea too, since a switch for an automatic is half the price of one for a manual. :-WTF!
It appears that I did - I'm looking back to find the number of the one I used, will keep you posted. As far as I can see, that was the only difference, just the light??
I must have gotten pretty lucky - cheapest one I can locate is $62.50, now - TS52F, cross to SM-52F.
Dennis Carpenter has turn signal switches for $40+ shipping. That's for 73-77, I'm assuming this is for the '77 in your sig. It's the same price for manual or auto. I have that switch from dennis carpenter for an automatic sitting on the seat in my truck and I haven't gotten around to putting it in yet, so I can't comment on its quality yet. It's definitely not what I'd consider a cheap fix, but I'm sure it'd solve your issues.
If you want another switch to toy around with I'd be willing to send you the OE one I'm replacing whenever I get to it. It has broken ends on the signal cam, so it won't self cancel anymore, but that's the only issue and as to why I'm replacing it in the first place. You can either use it or dissect it or whatever you want. Otherwise it'll sit on a shelf as a backup for myself.
Dennis Carpenter has turn signal switches for $40+ shipping. That's for 73-77, I'm assuming this is for the '77 in your sig. It's the same price for manual or auto. I have that switch from dennis carpenter for an automatic sitting on the seat in my truck and I haven't gotten around to putting it in yet, so I can't comment on its quality yet. It's definitely not what I'd consider a cheap fix, but I'm sure it'd solve your issues.
So if the only difference between manual and automatic switches is the provision for the light for the PRND21 indicator, then we're potentially paying twice as much for them to omit that light?
Originally Posted by 75BigBlock
Dennis Carpenter has turn signal switches for $40+ shipping. That's for 73-77, I'm assuming this is for the '77 in your sig. It's the same price for manual or auto. I have that switch from dennis carpenter for an automatic sitting on the seat in my truck and I haven't gotten around to putting it in yet, so I can't comment on its quality yet. It's definitely not what I'd consider a cheap fix, but I'm sure it'd solve your issues.
If you want another switch to toy around with I'd be willing to send you the OE one I'm replacing whenever I get to it. It has broken ends on the signal cam, so it won't self cancel anymore, but that's the only issue and as to why I'm replacing it in the first place. You can either use it or dissect it or whatever you want. Otherwise it'll sit on a shelf as a backup for myself.
Thanks for the offer, but if I get another switch, I think it'll be a new one from Dennis Carpenter! $40 is cheap enough for even me...
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