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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

New driver fender problem (pics)

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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 06:37 PM
  #16  
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Dude! What's up with your avatar?

I mean besides the bottom.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 07:20 PM
  #17  
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The running board is flush to the fender
 
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 08:02 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by eberhama
Right where the visible sheet metal folds under to make the mounting flange of the fender.
Originally Posted by EffieTrucker
Dude! What's up with your avatar?

I mean besides the bottom.

Lol! Not sure!! I just uploaded it and it’s upside down!! So I flipped it on my phone, and still loaded upside down!! It’s been that kinda day!!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 08:24 PM
  #19  
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Maybe Jason is from Oz not Az ��
 
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 09:40 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jcslocum
Maybe Jason is from Oz not Az ��
Or he's part of the "upside down" from Stranger Things on Netflix. They do have a junk yard with a bunch of old Fords in it.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2017 | 10:46 AM
  #21  
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I suspect that twisting the back section of the fender slightly will enable you to put a bolt in the original hole. The fenders are slightly flexible and I suspect the edge is turned in a little bit too much. Sometimes it works to put bolts in the cowl first and then pu ll the fender foeward enough too put in the other bolts. Bill in MI , 3 55's
 
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Old Dec 13, 2017 | 03:16 PM
  #22  
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Man this has me worried, I am redoing my cowls, and just as Charlie mentioned, the inner brace doesn't line up at all.


When you REPLACE EVERYTHING on one of these its hard to tell what is fitting correct and what isn't.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 10:07 PM
  #23  
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Go figure, i put the old original fender on and it hides the hole!!! this is so freakin frustrating.





i would use this one, but it has some cancer and dents and dings.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 10:11 PM
  #24  
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can anyone with metal working experience show me on one of my pics where to cut the new fender to get it to fit? i need an explanation dumbed down for me. pics help.

for example, a pic with some lines on it like this:

i would be forever grateful and would make a great christmas present for me.... lol
 
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 06:46 AM
  #25  
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IF it were mine, I would cut it on the flange that bolts to cowl, right where the outside of the fender meets the cab. I would make a slit about 6" above the hole, and 6" below the hole (12" total) and massage the fender out at the center of the slit to cover the hole.


Then add a small filler sliver and weld in place. All welding would be done on the flange...
 
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 11:11 AM
  #26  
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I don't think you need to do any cutting, a shrinker/stretcher should be able to take that small bend in the fender..about 2 inches below the hole
 
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 11:44 AM
  #27  
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I'd be interested in seeing what it looks like if you were to put a straight edge down the fender where it meets the cab to see how that differs from the stock one?

I'm thinking it may just need some massaging of that line rather than cutting and welding.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 11:46 AM
  #28  
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The fender was likely just bumped during shipping..
 
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 12:41 PM
  #29  
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I concur with John, that fender needs to be pulled to the rear with the most pull a few inches below the bolt hole. Pull the fender, straighten the mating flange and call it good.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2017 | 06:42 PM
  #30  
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I am an old retired body man who started out working on and painted a lot of these trucks way back in 1962 and 1963. Most of my colleagues tended to be surprised whenever a part fit right out of the box It looks to me like the crown or roll ahead of the cowl bolt area is a little too much. Sometimes you can grab the flange with two hands and just roll it in the direction it needs to go if you have a strong grip. If that did not work, I would probably start by putting in the cowl bolts finger tight and then pull the fender forward until the top bolts align. if you have a helper, you could have him hold and pull forward on the fender while you place a chunk of smooth 2x4 on the crown and very gently persuade the fender forward wiih a few blows with a heavy dead swing hammer. just enough to take a little tension out of the crown forward of the bolts.
Bill in MI
 
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