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Your plugs seem to indicate a pattern of running progressively colder the farther back they are in the engine. It might be a long shot, but don't overlook a potential problem in the cooling system. Are you running a thermostat? Are you sure it's working correctly and not stuck open? If the stat is present and working OK, then incorrectly installed head gaskets can cause uneven engine temperatures also. The gaskets usually have large coolant pass-throughs in one end and smaller, restricted ones in the other to meter coolant flow and keep the engine temps even. One end of the gaskets are usually marked FRONT. I'm not real familiar with Y-blocks, but on some engines, they can easily be installed backwards if the installer isn't paying attention. That could cause one end of the engine to run cold or hot. Just something else to think about!
Wow Ray. I would think that those would significantly deteriorate power, fuel economy, cylinder bore wear? Moving the plug tip up out of flame front into a hollow tube . . . ? ? ?
Wow Ray. I would think that these would significantly deteriorate power, fuel economy, cylinder bore wear? Moving the plug tip up out of flame front into a hollow tube . . . ? ? .
Yeah, they probably reduce compression a bit. They obviously take the fire a bit away from the fuel charge. But, Know what? They do work. Efficiently, probably not. We are discussing an engine with obvious problems, serious or not.
I have seen them used many times. I've even put them in old Ford tractors and the result was going a couple hours run time between spark plug cleaning and a much longer time, days, between plug cleaning. It ain't a fix but a patch that can and does work in some cases.I ran across one in my junk box just a few days ago. Actually, I don't think you can tell the difference in power when these are installed. You have the option of installing them in the offending cylinder or in the entire engine.
I bet some of the other old timers on here have seen them used.
Yeah, they probably reduce compression a bit. They obviously take the fire a bit away from the fuel charge. But, Know what? They do work. Efficiently, probably not. We are discussing an engine with obvious problems, serious or not. ....
I bet some of the other old timers on here have seen them used.
Exactly right! I had a car that had bad valve guide seals. Overnight oil would run down the stems and on start-up it would foul the plugs that were in the worst cylinders. I put those in those cylinders and no more problems. It ran a million percent better than with dead or missing cylinders. JC Whitney sold millions of those.
Exactly right! I had a car that had bad valve guide seals. Overnight oil would run down the stems and on start-up it would foul the plugs that were in the worst cylinders. I put those in those cylinders and no more problems. It ran a million percent better than with dead or missing cylinders. JC Whitney sold millions of those.
I guess that incomplete combustion 100% of the time is better than worse incomplete combustion with fouled plugs after X miles . . . but IMHO it seems like a dirty bandaid at best.
Lots of good info. The plug extenders seem like a good temp fix. It would be interesting to see how putting that on #4 impacts how the engine runs.
I doubt I will put many miles on it before spring.
My plan at this point is to clean and gap the plugs and reinstall in different cylinders. I will also double check my valve lash work. I will try to get in a couple of drives of about 20 or so miles at highway speed (well 45-50 mph) Then regularly check the plugs. If there is major fouling, try the plug extender and see how that impacts everything prior to further work.
This spring I hope to pull the heads and at least see how everything looks. I need the experience on this anyway.
A guy at work suggested I drain the oil and replace with diesel. Then run it at idle for about 10 minutes and replace with oil. He says it cleans out the oil passages. What are your thoughts on that?
I also have a line on a 272 that would be fun to get and build as a backup. That would be fun just for the experience. Since my experience is so limited, I love the opportunities to learn. We will see how the next 6 months goes in my life.
Diesel in crankcase for a half hour at a high idle, _no load on engine_ was an old school technique. Then drain and replace with motor oil. I'd be leery of that, but. It was common.
Something to try that's a lot less risky is something like Marvel oil in the fuel per directions on the can. Safe to install a quart in the crankcase too. If sticky rings or sludge is a problem it should help.
Well, I cleaned up the plug and it worries me a bit more. All the plugs except #4 were gaped well. #4 was way too close. Is the piston hitting the plug???
I stuck my pinkie finger in the hole and didn't feel anything loose in there.
When I get moved over to my father in laws, I will remove the head and check things out. In the meantime, I got a spark plug extender and put it on that cylinder. I also readjusted the valve lash on that one. I didn't double check compression since I don't have the tool handy. I hope to take it for a short test drive in a little bit.
I can’t imagine we would have screwed up gapping a plug, But hey stuff happens. What plugs are you running. They are all the same aren’t they?
You could crank over the engine a few times, with the plug out, if you think something is there and blow it out. I’d regap and install the plug (without the extender) and run it a bit, then pull the plug and check the gap. If it’s too tight again put the extender on and get ready for a rebuild.
Just thinking but if I’m correct the only thing that would let the piston hit the plug would be something on top of the piston (you’re not missing a washer are you?) or a worn rotating assembly (rod bearing, wrist pins etc) you could pull the pan and turn the engine over watching for looseness in the #4 piston, rod etc.
Wish you lived closer I just bought one of those cameras that lets you look inside your combustion chamber etc.
Whatever happened with the rearend you were looking at?
IMO - I think it would be impossible for this to happen without causing more damage or making crazy noises! The plug actually looks like it has melted or was arced against something. That's probably not possible either I would put a new plug in, drive it a few times, and re-evaluate it again. I'm confident you will get some good advise shortly!
As bad as that plug #4 was I would replace it, well all of them.
I had a car that ran only to move it when needed. It had carb issues and ran lean as the new plugs look brand new when I pulled them because of a miss/back fire when I had to move the car.
Being the motor sat for some time was thinking stuck valve but a compression test showed all was good.
I found the cly not firing, water test on header, moved plug to another cly and found it was the plug.
So new looking plugs can be bad as well as that bad one you have and cleaning may not bring it back.
With new plug this way you are starting with fresh new plugs and can get a better reading from them all after your long test drive.
I also would not run the extenders just yet till you get a reading of the plugs and go from there.
Once you get that cly to fire it may (fingers crossed) bring the compression number up as the rings will be forced out and any thing on valve burned off.
What does the cap/rotor look like? maybe replace them & plug wires and the tune up is done other than points.
Dave ----
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I would put a new plug in, drive it a few times, and re-evaluate it again. I'm confident you will get some good advise shortly!
