May be worth investing in a spark plug blaster, it gets them sparkling clean. Just need to make very sure all the grit is off the plug after cleaning. I bought one 40 yrs ago and it has come in handy many times.

https://www.harborfreight.com/pneuma...ner-32860.html

 

There is a school of thought that says that you can never get all the sand/grit out of an oil fouled plug. Sorry Ross, I don't know for sure but for the price of a new plug is it worth it's? Maybe a rumor started by the plug manufacturers?

 

Great suggestions guys.
I put the extender in, but I will remove it and see what happens.
BJ, I'm sure we gaped them properly. It is puzzling. I think pulling the pan should be done before removing the heads. I have such a hard time getting all the bolts to line back up again though. You got me looking at cameras. They sell usb ones really cheap. They are designed for walls and such, but I would think they would work to look into a cylinder. As for the rear end. I asked for some more pictures and he never got back with me. I emailed again and then looked at the ad. It had been removed.

I will get new plugs. I think I might get the plug blaster as well. It's cheap and looks like fun. My rotor is good. The plug wires I think are good. I did cut them a little long when I made them a while ago. Oh, I replaced the points recently too.

 

Excess carbon can jam up plug gap. Make sure ignition is bombproof with a good HOT spark, and timing is straight all up the RPM range. I know it sounds like snake oil but I'd try using something like Marvel oil in the fuel and crankcase to counteract any possible sludgy or stuck rings. Make sure carburetor isn't running too rich. Thermostat installed and proper temperature rating? People tend to place too much emphasis on running "cool", the engines need to get in the zone to burn off contaminates and sludge. Then check compression again after a few highway runs and heat cycles. I bet it will come back up and plugs should be much improved.

 

Interesting. I pulled the #4 plug to remove the extender and wrote down the number.
Motorcraft BSF82C. A google search on that number gives me a link to O'Reilly which says this doesn't fit my 55 F250. Hmmm.

O'Reilly has Autolite AP46 and 46 that list as good for my truck and they are in stock.
But this shows the 46 as too hot: tuneup.htm

But in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-question.html
(The same place for the spark plug specs link)
46Yblock says this: "45s are colder than 46. I am using 45 equivalent in an obsolete brand, due to higher CR. 46 Autolite is the plug used in most 272/292 engines."

Am I good with the Autolite 46? Dang, I get myself confused.

Ted, I wonder if I'm running a bit rich. Although I get 12-13 mpg on the highway....
And shoot, just read about valve lash. I adjust cold....another reason for a drive.

 

Plugs can fire up a very touchy subject. Their sorta like cars. Some swear by one kind some swear they wouldn’t use a brand in their lawn mower. Some say one brand runs better in a Chevy but not at all in a Ford. You get the picture.
This is a list of suggestions I have come across. Seems many seem to like the NGKs:

Champion 21/ F14YC/RF11YC
Autolite 46/BF32 (cold plug)/BF 42/ BF 52 (for oil burning)
NGK WR5IX/2438
Bosch: 7551/ DR10BC
Champion: 21/ F14YC
Motorcraft: 30/ BF82C (old p/n) 631/ BSF82CF6 (newer p/n)

There are even the E3s and platinum plugs too.

 

46 Autolites should be fine, many people run them. Where a "hot" plug can be an issue is on extended highway speed runs in the summer. A lot of misconceptions about heat range, too. If a carburetor is mistuned (pig rich) a common error is to install a hotter plug in hopes of getting the plug to show a light tan on the insulator. That isn't how it works. Get the ignition timing right at all RPMs, carburetor adusted properly esp. jetting, then look at the plugs more critically in terms of heat range.

It is important for the plug tip to reach a certain minimum temperature and self-clean deposits but in most cases a stock heat range in a stock motor will be just about perfect. Plug reading itself is tricky, especially with modern gasoline. The color on the ceramic itself is probably the least important or, at least not the only thing to look at. Modern gas doesn't "color" the way it used to. The base circle (cruise jetting) ground strap (heat range/timing) and deep inside the plug where the ceramic transitions to the metal shell (wide open throttle fuel mixture) are also looked at to determine how things are getting along in the combustion department. It doesn't matter what mileage you're currently getting, if the plugs are black and fouled it's wasting a LOT of gas. This tends to contaminate the crankcase with raw fuel and can wash out rings or cause heavy carbon buildup elsewhere. Slightly rich is preferable but that will never happen just by chance.

 

Good info again.
It's amazing that even spark plugs can get confusing.

 

I would at the very least replace that plug as even a cleaned plug can arc inside under compression . If the piston is hitting the plug the plug is the least of your worries a spun rod bearing or huge buildup on your piston ( unlikely ) are pretty much the only cause and in any case you should certainly be able to hear it . . A random piece of carbon is a possibility also .

 

Well I ordered an iPhone Endoscope for $40. Very cool tool. It connected to my phone using wifi and I can take video and pictures. The cable is 11ft long. Hey....I think I will run it up my exhaust.
Here is the video of #4 cylinder.

 

That is cool. And the piston is surprisingly clean, considering how the plug looked.

 

That is really cool. I thought the same thing, plug fouling doesn't seem to match the cylinder condition. Some scoring evident.

On the camera. Why is wifi even part of the equation, if an 11 foot cable is connected to phone? Hard to argue the price.

 

Sounds like a personal problem.

 

We will see him in a future episode of "Untold Stories of the ER."