Ok It's time to change the oil pan gasket on my 93 F150 two wheel drive (ext. Cab) 5.0L. The book is VERY veg when it comes to this. Any one out there done this if so what did it take and what mistakes did you come accross. How do I do it?

scott

 

Scooter just thought I would send you a reply on your pan. I am in the same boat I have a 92 F-250 4x4 5.8 the pan gasket popped out so today I took the pan off (engine in truck)and raised the engine about 1 1/2 inchs off the motor mounts and the pan still wont come out its hung up on the oil pump. Tomarrow the fun begins I ll be taking the engine out to change the pan gasket and rear main seal. I think its good to try and take the pan out with the engine in because if it works youve save yourself alot of work on removeing and installing the engine and if it doesnt all of what you have removed in the effort would also be removed to get the engine out. GOOD LUCK

 

You gotta jack the engine up several inches...about 5. It's really hard to do this without removing the upper intake because it will hit the top of the firewall...I tried, and had to remove the intake in the end. Definately use the 1 piece gasket. You will also have to remove your downpipes from the manifold and be able to drop them in order to slide the pan out. I think you will most likely have to disconnect the oil pump pickup tube in order to slide the pan out too...I had to, but I suppose if you jack it up enough you could get away without it.

the whole thing is a real pain.

 

You don't need to jack up the engine just to replace the gasket. The pan drops enough to be able to snake the new gasket under the crank. I helped my dad with putting a new one in his '92, and it took us 2 hours from the time we pulled the oil plug to the time we had new oil in it and fired back up. Use a one piece gasket, and it's a good idea to get it from Ford. When you tighten the bolts back, go from the middle of the pan out so that you don't warp the pan.

 

I'm trying to get the pan back on my '92 351W. I put a new oil pump in, and I had to remove the old one before the pan would come out.
There's no way I can get the oil pump installed with the pan sitting on the crossmember, and the pan won't clear the oil pump if I put the pump on first. All the manuals say that the pump can stay on during pan removal/install.

dbuck50 said the engine has to come up about 5 inches. Mine's sitting on 2X4's wedged under the mounts. He's got a 302, which is a shorter block, but can the 351W come up that high? I've got the exhaust and upper intake off. And I'm working with a floor jack, since I don't have a cherry picker. All I need is another inch or so, and the pan will clear the pump.

 

I think this should either be a sticky or in the tech articles because this is such a common repair and a pain to figure out.

I tried lifting with a floor jack at the pan and blocking the motor with wood....didn't work!

Before you do anything though, you need to unbolt the tranny at the mounts on the X-member (2 nuts), and unbolt the linkage from the frame (2 bolts). Raise the tranny enough to place a 1x4 piece of wood between the mount studs and X-member and lower tranny onto the wood. This places the tranny at the right angle and keeps it from sliding forward. Without doing this the pan gets caught on the tranny and the X-member, making it impossible to remove the pan. I read a post by luke_trash that outlined this method and it worked great after fighting it the other way (Thanks luke!).

Now remove the upper intake and motor mount nuts. Raise the motor with a bottle jack at the balancer (this made the biggest diference) as far as it will go (I didn't have a problem with tranny lines at all). I used a 4X4 peice of wood under the bottle jack to give me additional height. Just leave the jack under it without blocking the motor with wood, this just lowers the motor which you do not want. You now have enough room to unbolt the pan, oil pump and pickup tube,let them fall in the pan. The pan will literally slip right out. If you don't have a bottle jack - get one!

To install -
When I reinstalled the new pan gasket I did it differently than most would have, but was very easy and sealed good. Before installing the pump and pickup I cleaned the block surface with brake cleaner. Then I attached the gasket with all the pan bolts to the block. Then I removed 2 or 3 bolts at a time as I applied permatex to the block and sealed the gasket as I went. By the time you have all the bolts removed the gasket is sealed to the block and will not fall off or become a pain to start the bolts. You just simply put the pan up to the block and add the bolts. Simple. I tried juggling the gasket and the pan without the help of the sealer...not so simple.

Set the pan on X-member. Install oil pump (new) and driveshaft with the distributor still installed. I tried it with both installed and removed. I found that with it installed it helps locate and hold the shaft in place. Now bolt up the pickup tube. Bolt the pan up, you don't have to worry about the gasket if you did it like I did. Now just lower the motor and trans back down and button it up.

 

1pump

Did you buy a high volume pump? If so they are a little longer than stock making pan clearance an issue. You can take it to the parts house and compare with a stock unit to see the diference.

If not, look at my previous post.

 

It's not supposed to be an HV, and it looks just like the old one.

I'm gonna pull the engine next weekend. I'm not looking forward to it, but at least I can get a good look at the bearings. There was quite a bit of crud built up in the crankcase, which I suspect caused my oil pressure problem, and this way I can clean things up a bit.
Anybody have any suggestions for cleaning out the bottom end? I might take the crank out and get it polished or ground and get new bearings. It would be really cool if I could clean the crusty crap out of the inside of the block without stripping it down any farther. I really don't want to pull the heads and get involved with this thing.

One other thing- I've pulled engines on several manual trans trucks before, but this one is an E4OD. Do I leave the torque converter on the trans? If I unbolt it from the flexplate, how do I rotate the engine to get at all the converter bolts? Any weird problems with lining it back up during the install?

 

If your pulling the motor, pulling the heads is by far easier while out of the truck. Trying to clean the lower end without a teardown is pretty hard to do. The main reason is you need to remove all the water buidup from all crevices of the block using compressed air. This is pretty hard to do because water will make it's way into areas that you can't reach.

Yes leave the convert on the trans. You will need to rotate it from the crank pulley. I have seen a tool made to rotate the motor from the flexplate but it was pretty awkward.

You shouldn't have any problems installing it as long as you don't try to use the bolts to pull it up that last bit. A tranny jack is nice but I've used a floor jack many times (with a wood block).

 

Got the pan and oil pump off of my 1990 F150 5.0 EFI today.
using the information posted here. thanks to all, OBTW - the TORX on mine was a 40. Took it out of a folding kind of tool, cut off the loop ground flats on the shank to fit into a 1/4 drive socket.

 

All i can say is what a PITA!!!!

Took the pan off my 95 F350 today if it wasnt one thing is was another

After jacking the motor up (about 5 inches) and blocking! Had the jack slip and almost kissed my pinky goodbye when the block came down.IMPORTANT TO BLOCK!!!

After the first 4 hours i finally got fed up and started to take everything off that was in the way. IE Fan shroud,Fan,Starter,Rad hose.Only to have that little shaft from the oil pump to give me grief

Cant wait to put this thing back in......Next time i will just take the engine out.Probably easier.May have to try the Tranny Trick.

On a side note,I came across a plug that looks like a diesel block heater(including 110 plug) Did they make these for Gas also?




95 F350 Crew cab 4x4 long bed
5.8liter

 

the trucks are no sweat i have had to replace a few oil pans not just the gasket in 5 different vans. cant just jack the engine up because there is no room. i will be replacing the 6th pan in the next 2 weeks but i have the engine out for this one. ford pans are junk the steel is cheapest ever produced on the planet. i would expect that from a company liks dodge where the whole truck is a pile of garbage. anyhow to save you people some work if you see any rust at all on the pan better fix it. and dont think that you have a lot of metal to work with so be as light as you can with the sand paper. i live in michigan they only last about 4 years here. i changed my first one in a 1996 e350 in 2000 (351w) and 4 other 5.0`s. best bet is to get a good coat of paint on it then under coat it and inspect it often. dirt roads and salt are killers!!!!!