Still awaiting the wheel in the mail, I had to do two separate shipments as I did not know it was damaged until removal.

I also have no boost gauge nor pyro. :/ I figure anything beats my beat stock wheel that has a few bent blades and a chunk from another missing. I figure it being out of balance wiped the bearings.

My Edge Insight CS is sitting around here somewhere, hopefully that can monitor the basics from the ECU. Adding EGT is easy with it.

 

If that was the case your turbo will need to be rebalanced. But since that’s expensive I’d said just run it and see how long the new bearings will last. Could go another 200k or 60k. And have you installed a thermistor in your exhaust manifold to watch egts ? Honestly unless u got a tune or other mods you don’t need to watch egts. The most Iv ever gotten my truck up to with no tune and towing up a steeeeep hill was 1150. The start of too high of egts are 1250

 

I did not put a dial indicator on it to check end play, but it seemed kinda loose... no contacting of the turbine or compressor wheel to the housings. So that is a plus. Agreed on just running it.

Currently, dorking around on a mild tow/econ tune from Gearhead. Gives me enough extra *** to get moving. I do have a 3" downpipe and cone filter, so I cannot imagine EGTs too bad. If I had to tow, I would go to my max tow setting until I had my EGT probe installed. Safe beats sorry!

 

That’s funny I just set back my gearhead tune so they can get mine right lol. But on turbos you want 0 in and out play and a hair of up and down play. So if you have in and out play make sure your rebuild kit has the new backing plate/bushing and this cage like spacer between the bearings Wish I can load good pictures for you but for some reason I cant with the site. Make sure u install your thermistor to you exhaust manifold and not the down pipe. I see so many customers that installed them into the down pipe. (I work at a Ford dealer)

 

I bought that $200 kit from them. https://www.spturboost.com/collectio...ombo-1994-2003 That is the kit. I seem to recall no in/out play, just a bit up/down on the old one.

Driver manifold looks easy enough, downpipe seems silly! I just need to be unlazy and order the Edge probe.

 

Yep that’s the same kit I got in my truck.

 

This video might help with some of the questions about what you're working on.


I had more footage here somewhere for tips and trick on turbo removal, but I haven't put the video together just yet. Stand by and I'll see if I can post something up here later today some time.

Having done it a few times, I can now pull the stock turbo in less than an hour. The best tools to use are either a 15mm stubby wrench or swivel head socket, and a 1/4" 10mm socket on a swivel then an 8" extension on a ratchet to get the pedestal bolts out. You're working blind on the two rear pedestal bolts and the bottom passenger side collector nut isn't much better. You really just have to "feel" it into place.

I've heard people say before that the compressor wheel can be swapped with the turbo on the engine, but I also know of one guy who wasn't able to get the compressor housing back on the turbo without pulling it from the engine. Not sure what to suggest, but good luck with the project.

 

From a desktop it's not to hard. Click on UserCP, top left corner of screen then click on Pictures and Albums. From there you can create different folders for different types of projects. Open the Album you created and click on the edit button. You can now upload pictures from your computer.

To link the picture into a post go the folder, click on the picture you need and it will expand. Click on the Share button and a link will appear where you can copy and paste it into the post. I usually edit the picture first and scale it down to 100% as you are limited to a certain memory size.

They didn't make it easy but after a few attempts it goes pretty simple. Explaining this from memory so might of got something wrong but once in there it is pretty obvious how it works.

Good luck.

 

Here, try this:

 

New wheel showed. Obviously lighter and the curvature of the blades is more aggressive. Hey, anything beats my stock, clapped out wheel. If I did not have leaking uppipes, I could give a more indepth review.

 

Billet wheels are purty aren't they?

 

Why not fix the leaking up pipes? You wont see any difference if you dont addresss the issue. Even new stock up pipes with new doughnuts you can easily get another 100k out of them, well thats if you dont go with bellow up pipes.

 

Time.

Truck has been down for weeks now and I need it operational by after Christmas. I have to align my 300SD next week, then do rear drums and steering on the truck. Try to slip radius arm bushings in also.

I thought about dropping the current ones and having them flared a bit, then tossing on new donuts. Even if that bought me a few months. But I cannot afford the downtime if a fastener breaks in that turbo collector.

At least the turbocharger will come out much easier now for the next time.

 

Much easier way. On the top of the reply box click on this then follow the steps.