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Heat issue!

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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 12:48 PM
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Heat issue!

2001 5.4l, when at normal op temp I can get heat for about 45 seconds and then it goes cold, turn it off and it will build back up after about a minute and then repeat the process. If I floor it, 0-60 I get a burst of heat around 50mph, let off and it goes cold. Shift to neutral and hold it at about 3,000rpms and I'll get some heat.
I WAS low about half a gallon of coolant, added some. I had a intake manifold gasket leaking a few months ago, so it was missing some fluid, no i have not burped the system and I don't know if the techs did, so I will try that tonight.
Looking for any input! Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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Intermittent heat can be caused by a broken blend door or actuator motor.
If it never gets HOT, it could be a stuck open or missing thermostat and bad water pump, or restriction somewhere in the cooling system. You will want to verify that the heater hoses are both getting hot when the engine is up to full operating temperature. And definitely burp it first before you go any further on it.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam I Am
Intermittent heat can be caused by a broken blend door or actuator motor.
If it never gets HOT, it could be a stuck open or missing thermostat and bad water pump, or restriction somewhere in the cooling system. You will want to verify that the heater hoses are both getting hot when the engine is up to full operating temperature. And definitely burp it first before you go any further on it.
It gets hot, just not for long. Both heater hoses get "warm" top one hotter then bottom. I'm thinking of replacing the thermostat just because of the mileage anyway so i may do that in the process. I don't think it's a blend door, maybe you can follow my thought process here, I could be wrong. If I have heat, and 2 seconds after it goes cold, I floor it and get heat back I'd say the door is still set to heat, there just isn't any heat to push.

Quick question on this truck on a side note, I can burp the system simply by opening the reservoir cap since it's a pressurized system correct?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 03:48 PM
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If one hose is hotter than the other the flow through the heater core maybe restricted.
When was the heater core last back flushed.

Flooring it could cause a broken blend door to swing between heat and no heat when accelerating and decelerating.

I think it should pretty well self burp. Is there a bleeder valve near the thermostat to let any air out?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pdqford
If one hose is hotter than the other the flow through the heater core maybe restricted.
When was the heater core last back flushed.

Flooring it could cause a broken blend door to swing between heat and no heat when accelerating and decelerating.

I think it should pretty well self burp. Is there a bleeder valve near the thermostat to let any air out?
No bleed valve on this model. Hoses are both hot, not too much difference. To my knowledge it's never been back flushed. Ran it with the cap off at operating temp for about 20mins had no burping.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 04:32 PM
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Also add that I can tell the fluid hasn't been changed out before. Planning to do that this weekend but I want to get this issue fixed before putting fresh fluid in. Atleast blow the heater core clean before swapping fluid.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 04:57 PM
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I recommend removing at least the block drain on the driver’s side to get all the sediment that collects in the lowest portion of the block. (When I got my Navigator I drained the block, filled with water, ran engine to Luke warm, drain block - repeat until water comes out clean. I had to repeat EIGHT times before water came out clean!)
 
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