Any help would be appreciated.
#16
12-08-2017, 08:26 PM
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Awesome thanks guys! The IPR sounds lile a good lead since it acts like a fuel issue when it won't start. Hopefully will get the alternator on tomorrow and see what cold water will do when/if it stalls again. Also read another thread about pulling the EOT when it stalls, guess it' worth a shot. Starting to doubt that I got a good deal on this truck after all haha
#17
12-10-2017, 04:58 PM
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So I bought a Bluetooth code reader today, a innova drive 3211a from AutoZone for $100. When I try and use the torque app it wants a pairing code, I've tried 1111 0000 1234 etc with no luck. The innova app is junk and will just read codes. The truck wont' even start now and it just says there are no codes, that doesn' help. Do I need to take that thing back and just wait and order one online?
#18
12-10-2017, 05:04 PM
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The reader has to read OBD-I, PWM1850 protocol for our trucks. Not all of them do, including online.
That is why you will see specific models suggested when you see someone mention them.
I don't know the Autozone one you have, but it is more than likely not compatible. It *should* connect to Bluetooth pairing in Torque Pro, though, as TP does many other vehicles.
That is why you will see specific models suggested when you see someone mention them.
I don't know the Autozone one you have, but it is more than likely not compatible. It *should* connect to Bluetooth pairing in Torque Pro, though, as TP does many other vehicles.
#19
12-10-2017, 06:12 PM
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#20
12-10-2017, 07:18 PM
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So I bought a Bluetooth code reader today, a innova drive 3211a from AutoZone for $100. When I try and use the torque app it wants a pairing code, I've tried 1111 0000 1234 etc with no luck. The innova app is junk and will just read codes. The truck wont' even start now and it just says there are no codes, that doesn' help. Do I need to take that thing back and just wait and order one online?
Tell us what steps and configuration options you have done in TP....
#21
12-10-2017, 07:26 PM
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Here is a link for your manual: https://csr.innova.com/Content/Manua...wnloadable.pdf
It only discusses using their software. I don't see any code provided. Maybe it is hardcoded in the software and they don't tell you what it is?
It only discusses using their software. I don't see any code provided. Maybe it is hardcoded in the software and they don't tell you what it is?
#22
12-10-2017, 07:36 PM
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That adapter won't work with other software, like TP.
Found this:
Found this:
<li class="sort-oldest a-viewoptions-list-item">
Innova Service3 years ago
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Hello Steve Taylor,
Thank you for your review and use of our product. I apologize for the trouble you've had with our 3211 Quicklink device.
Currently, the Quicklink device is designed for Android and Apple IOS devices; it is not advertised for Windows as of this time. I apologize if you are not able to use this tool with different application, but the 3211 is designed to only work with Innova Quicklink Applications. If you are having issues connecting to your Samsung Galazy Note 10.1, please email me at support@innova.com, Attention: Joseph or give us a call. I will personally assist you with this issue.
Should you have any questions with the upgrade or the software please do not hesitate to contact our technical support department at (800)544-4124. We're available Monday through Sunday from 6:00am - 6:00pm Pacific Standard Time.
Thank you,
Innova
Innova Service3 years ago
Report abuse
Hello Steve Taylor,
Thank you for your review and use of our product. I apologize for the trouble you've had with our 3211 Quicklink device.
Currently, the Quicklink device is designed for Android and Apple IOS devices; it is not advertised for Windows as of this time. I apologize if you are not able to use this tool with different application, but the 3211 is designed to only work with Innova Quicklink Applications. If you are having issues connecting to your Samsung Galazy Note 10.1, please email me at support@innova.com, Attention: Joseph or give us a call. I will personally assist you with this issue.
Should you have any questions with the upgrade or the software please do not hesitate to contact our technical support department at (800)544-4124. We're available Monday through Sunday from 6:00am - 6:00pm Pacific Standard Time.
Thank you,
Innova
#23
12-10-2017, 07:50 PM
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Thanks for digging into it like that. I'l just take it back tomorrow if it won' work.
Back to the truck tho, I removed the ICP today and tried to crank the truck and oil just slowly came out of the hole. According to a video on YouTube that would lead either to the HPOP or the IPR.... The ICP didn' have oil in the plug either. So I guess getting one of these scanners to work on TP would narrow it down for me..
Back to the truck tho, I removed the ICP today and tried to crank the truck and oil just slowly came out of the hole. According to a video on YouTube that would lead either to the HPOP or the IPR.... The ICP didn' have oil in the plug either. So I guess getting one of these scanners to work on TP would narrow it down for me..
#24
12-10-2017, 08:02 PM
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Since you are starting from scratch as they say, there are certain tools and tests the guys will take you through to cover the most common issues and narrow down which system is giving the trouble.
Take the time to work through each one and you'll be amazed at how well known our trucks are
#25
12-10-2017, 08:14 PM
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#26
12-15-2017, 02:59 PM
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So I got a Bluetooth obd2 scanner and have the torque pro app hooked up, I also have a new motorcraft IPR. Any tips on how to use the torque pro app to help me find what the prob is. The tri9ck won' start now and there are no fault codes. The IPR on the trucks looks to be not very old at all, might have been a $160 waste of money...
#27
12-15-2017, 03:35 PM
Fleet Owner
Best advice can be summed up in these two threads.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nced-pids.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-pro-faq.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nced-pids.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-pro-faq.html
#28
12-15-2017, 03:50 PM
Postmaster
Hi thanks for the advice. I put a new CPS in it today, I doknt know what the other one was for sure, it was grey and the end that goes in the motor was smaller around then the black one I put in. I checked the alternator again also and it's still putting out 12.5 when idling bit when revved up to 1500 rpm it' putting out 13.8-14. I went ahead and bought a new alternator goiing to put it on tomorrow, if nothiing else it should make it idle smoother, has a slight surge to it when idling. Drove it again for about a hour today and when i was pulling in the driveway stgalled again and no start 
So the new CPS fixed basically nothing. It turns over strong and fast but doesn' hit a lick, nothing, like it isn' getting fuel. But when it's driving it never jerks or bucks or nothing crazy, runs great. I dont really see how it could be a battery or alternator prob making it die and not start when it has plenty of juice to turn over real good. Also the dial does go to a chip in the PCM, I took the key out and unhooked it after it stalled hoping it would miraculously make it start but to no avail. Still at a loss...
Oh it' a automatic, sorry thought I mentioned that in my first reply.
So the new CPS fixed basically nothing. It turns over strong and fast but doesn' hit a lick, nothing, like it isn' getting fuel. But when it's driving it never jerks or bucks or nothing crazy, runs great. I dont really see how it could be a battery or alternator prob making it die and not start when it has plenty of juice to turn over real good. Also the dial does go to a chip in the PCM, I took the key out and unhooked it after it stalled hoping it would miraculously make it start but to no avail. Still at a loss...Oh it' a automatic, sorry thought I mentioned that in my first reply.
I would replace the alt asap, if not done already, the fact you get fluctuations like you described is bad juju for a vehicle of any type, your alt with in 30secs of starting should see an output of 14.2 - 14.5 (I installed a volt meter at my cigarette lighter hole as I don’t need it for smoking) and torque pro also verifying the same voltage at the OBD port as well.
#29
12-15-2017, 03:54 PM
Postmaster
So I got a Bluetooth obd2 scanner and have the torque pro app hooked up, I also have a new motorcraft IPR. Any tips on how to use the torque pro app to help me find what the prob is. The tri9ck won' start now and there are no fault codes. The IPR on the trucks looks to be not very old at all, might have been a $160 waste of money...
Just saw this (on my Fruit based device) so I Apologise for the double posting, but if your truck is NOT starting while hooked up with torque pro (aka TP) or dies while running when you use TP you need to check the PID(s) as one (or heaven help ya) or more may have an error in them.Also I would read over the two links Sous provided as they will help get you started, in fact I need to update the FAQ anyways… Also I am not sure if this was mentioned, have you recently checked both batteries? While sometimes it may not seem like a battery issue if the batteries do not have strong enough capabilities they can cause weird issues to occur, remember the battery is both the alpha and Omega of the trucks charging system ( or any vehicle for that matter ), and I have seen some strange issues occur with batteries that have contained a dead cell
#30
12-15-2017, 04:14 PM
Cargo Master
Get one of these.
It will let you know when your glow plugs come on, during the 'Wait to Start' period. Voltage should go from 12.5v to 11.5v.
When the Glow Plug Relay shuts off. When the Glow Plug Relay shuts off and the truck is running, the Voltage will 'Slowly' rise to the output of the Alternator. (14.5v?)
The 'pull down' of the batteries when cranking after the 'wait to start' light goes out. 11.5v-11.v (if the voltage goes to 10.5 v. it will not start.)
It will tell you the out put of the Alternator. Around 14.5v
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Equus-Inn...&wl13=&veh=sem
It will let you know when your glow plugs come on, during the 'Wait to Start' period. Voltage should go from 12.5v to 11.5v.
When the Glow Plug Relay shuts off. When the Glow Plug Relay shuts off and the truck is running, the Voltage will 'Slowly' rise to the output of the Alternator. (14.5v?)
The 'pull down' of the batteries when cranking after the 'wait to start' light goes out. 11.5v-11.v (if the voltage goes to 10.5 v. it will not start.)
It will tell you the out put of the Alternator. Around 14.5v
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Equus-Inn...&wl13=&veh=sem