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89 5.8 build help.

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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 09:48 AM
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89 5.8 build help.

I bought a 89 F150 for $300. I have put new plugs and wires, fuel filter, air filter, distributor cap, rotary button and one of the value cover gaskets because the other value cover is under the intake. It runs good for a $300 truck. The muffler is torn off and there is a terrific exhaust leak. I want to do right by the ol girl. I'd like to get heads, cam, intake (then replace that valve cover gasket), and new exhaust. It has a C6 and I believe she is geared 3.08. I'm looking for 300 horses if I get 275 I'd be fine with that. I mostly haul my trash with the truck and use it for lite farm use. I would like to move it to daily driver and change the gearing. I'm a Ford man. I've had several Ford's including a 76 Explorer with a 390HO installed and a sweet 62 falcon, but I know nothing about these smog pumpers with EFI.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 09:58 AM
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Before asked I don't want to spend more than 5 grand.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 11:12 AM
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If you want to keep the stock fuel injection you have to have good vacuum at idle. Fuel injection modifications can turn into a career you might not want.

There are a lot of choices for strokers, heads and intakes. A stroker can "grow" your engine to breath better and still have vacuum at idle.

You definitely need tight quench for cheap fuel tolerance.

Shopping in catalogs and talking to salesmen on the phone is not a substitute for an experienced engine builder. Don't overcam it and go with a proven build.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by HardScrabble
If you want to keep the stock fuel injection you have to have good vacuum at idle. Fuel injection modifications can turn into a career you might not want.

There are a lot of choices for strokers, heads and intakes. A stroker can "grow" your engine to breath better and still have vacuum at idle.
I wasn't thinking of a stroker more bolt on mods. You are very correct I do not want to mess with the EFI. What should the vacuum be at idle and how can I test it? I was thinking of a crane444232 cam, GT40X heads and some headers of some sort. I don't know what's available for intakes. Would thuse mods get me close to 300 hp?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Mightyox
I'm looking for 300 horses if I get 275 I'd be fine with that.
Install a Crane 444232 with 1.7 roller rockers, longtube headers, and a slightly better flowing intake and you will have about 275hp and 400 ft/lbs torque. That is technically all the stock injectors can handle at sustainable duty cycles although they can be stretched a bit further for the few seconds at a time an engine spends at peak rpm under normal driving conditions. If racing or mud bogging the truck it's a better idea not to push the injectors so hard. Exceeding the supply capacity of the stock injectors is when things get more complex and expensive because you can't simply plug in a bigger set, you also have to somehow tell the computer it is using larger injectors and it's also likely the stock tables will be insufficient for the upgraded motor so tuning is required. And the big problem is the stock PCM is not supported by the common tuning systems used for this generation so something else has to be substituted.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
Install a Crane 444232 with 1.7 roller rockers, longtube headers, and a slightly better flowing intake and you will have about 275hp and 400 ft/lbs torque. That is technically all the stock injectors can handle at sustainable duty cycles although they can be stretched a bit further for the few seconds at a time an engine spends at peak rpm under normal driving conditions. If racing or mud bogging the truck it's a better idea not to push the injectors so hard. Exceeding the supply capacity of the stock injectors is when things get more complex and expensive because you can't simply plug in a bigger set, you also have to somehow tell the computer it is using larger injectors and it's also likely the stock tables will be insufficient for the upgraded motor so tuning is required. And the big problem is the stock PCM is not supported by the common tuning systems used for this generation so something else has to be substituted.
I have read several of your post before joining. Thanks for replying. I don't get what you mean about pushing the injectors hard.
No racing and it's 2WD so no muddin. Maybe squalling a tire from time to time? Is that 275hp with stock heads?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mightyox
I don't get what you mean about pushing the injectors hard.
An injector is solenoid controlled valve, it's just a coil of wire that when powered creates a magnet field that works against a permanent magent to open the valve. The longer the coil is powered the more heat is generated and it can only take so much before burning out so what they do is pulse them open and closed at increasing speed and duty cycle(open time vs closed time) in line with increasing engine rpm and load. And to ensure a long life it is recommended that 85% duty cycle not be exceeded.
The more air an engine flows the more fuel it needs to operate correctly, the EFI control system will try to add more fuel right up to 100% injector duty cycle if that is whats required so we need to use other methods of limiting how hard the injectors are pushed... be that simply limiting engine rpm or as in this case simply planning upgrades so that some headroom is retained.

Originally Posted by Mightyox
Is that 275hp with stock heads?
Yes that is about what they can produce when there are no restrictions elsewhere.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 11:59 PM
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I built my GT40 headed/roller 5.8 (did everything but machine) for a hair over $3K that yields a possible 290-300 hp @ the crank & verified 190-ish, rear-wheel hp/265 tq.

It currently peaks at about 4200 & falls on it's face from lack of fuel or tuning at 4850.

I have bits & pieces of a mass air conversion in the wings.

Build thread & other diversions if you like to read:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16937337
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 03:29 AM
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I spent close to the same on my 5.8L build for a 96'. It was similar to Scndsin's but less performance parts & more general replacements/maintenance (truck had 250k on it). I retained the stock cam, used GT40P heads instead, and already have MAF. 20k miles in just over a year, very happy with it. No dyno numbers for mine, but it is much more powerful than stock. Here's a thread if interested: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...et-minded.html I covered a lot of noob stuff bc this was my first 4 stroke engine build but there's some hard-ish to find info in it too.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 05:31 AM
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If you want to out grow the stock efi, get a quality set of aluminum heads.

If you want to keep it simple and cheap, a gt40p (properly ported preferably) build yields a nice snappy throttle with brutal midrange when paired with pretty much any of the computer friendly cams recommended here.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 02:13 PM
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Thanks guys. I've been so busy that I haven't had time to look at the links but I will. I'm working 3 jobs and can't wait to spend some of the cash on the ol truck.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 02:26 PM
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It really is enjoyable to modernize these old trucks, they came so poorly equipped from the factory that the difference is huge when you're finished the build.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 12:51 PM
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-44746-16​​​​​​

Would these R/R work for my heads.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 01:00 PM
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Yes they will. I have them on 2 other engines. A 302 and 351.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
Yes they will. I have them on 2 other engines. A 302 and 351.
Thanks, is there any machine work that has to be done with them? I assume you like them since you bought them twice.

What intakes should I be looking for?
 
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