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The Bulldog KE1702 arrived in the mail today. This was an Amazon open package deal for 19.95. All the parts were there and unused. In fact, there was the optional relay (#775) for the parking lights to flash when you unlock the doors. I don't believe that was supposed to be included.
The remotes have a red light that will flash when you press a button, so the battery is in the remotes.
I will update this thread when I install it this weekend.
FORDF250HDXLT, is there a constant power wire in the door where you pulled the switch to hook yours up? I was planning on hooking mine up at the passenger side kickpanel. That seems to be the easiest place to access the wires.
It's been a few years now.All I recall is that everything needed was there,minus the parking light wire of course.Sorry I can't help anymore than that.
Yeah.Works great.No issues.I put on in my other truck (which I also still have) years earlier (probably in '09 when I got that truck) as well and same thing,no issues with that one or the remotes either.
I have the Bulldog remote door lock installed. It wasn't a bad job, but for anyone tackling it I highly recommend a quality wire crimper and stripper. I made do with low quality stripper (ok, I'll say it "cheap stripper") that got the job done, barely.
I wired the box on the passenger side and tucked the box up at the top of the kick panel. The antenna wire is supposed to be kept straight. But a foot long wire inside the inside kick panel is not going to be straight. I settled for gently curved.
The job took about three hours, but I spent around an hour identifying wires. I tried to solder the wires, but my iron would not get hot enough for the fairly heavy gauge truck wires. My Harbor Freight crimper came through and worked great once I gave up on the solder.
Now for some pictures:
Bulldog KE1702
Crimped wire
controller box, opened
Harbor Freight crimper, works very well
The wire colors on the truck were:
BLK/WHT---constant 12 volt
PNK/Lt.GRN---switch/motor
PNK/YEL---switch/motor
The Bulldog instructions were good. The assembly of the box was not so good. The reason I took it apart was that the circuit board was rattling around loose in the black box. The black box came apart very easily, you could even say it fell apart.
I wrapped the board and the box with black electrical tape so it wouldn't rattle.
The range of the remote seems good. I tested it to a distance of about twenty feet and had no trouble. It was too cold outside to find the limits, that's for another day.
At this point, I'm very happy with the outcome. If I encounter any issues I'll post back to this thread.
I would HIGHLY recommend retrofitting a factory RKE module. I happen to have one and it's pigtails handy with all the diagrams to make it happen. Also just finished up a retrofit on my '92 F250.
I know this post was from 2017 but I'm very interested in how you retrofitted the RKE module and what you had to tap into to achieve factory results. I am new to this forum, I will give you a little background on my truck. It's a 1992 f250 that had a 5.8l with a zf5 4x4 the truck has been in my life since i can remember, I belonged to my father and was passed to me. I plan on going to a pull your own part salvage yard and trying to get it all in one shot.
I know this post was from 2017 but I'm very interested in how you retrofitted the RKE module and what you had to tap into to achieve factory results. I am new to this forum, I will give you a little background on my truck. It's a 1992 f250 that had a 5.8l with a zf5 4x4 the truck has been in my life since i can remember, I belonged to my father and was passed to me. I plan on going to a pull your own part salvage yard and trying to get it all in one shot.
Sorry man. Looked through what documents I have and couldnt findany diagrams left of the wiring and how I accomplished this. Most of that stuff was gone right after i completed the work as I was focusing on the steering wheel transplants.
I’m in the process of doing a full harness swap from
a 95 f150 (under hood and dash) and when pulling the parts truck apart I noticed it has factory RKE. What do I need to do to get key fobs made and to make it work in my truck? I didn’t get the fobs with the truck but it did run and drive before I pulled it apart.
I would HIGHLY recommend retrofitting a factory RKE module. I happen to have one and it's pigtails handy with all the diagrams to make it happen. Also just finished up a retrofit on my '92 F250.
this is a old post but i am NOT good with this stuff, but im work on a 1992 f250 super cab, i put all new harnesses from the firewall back and retrofitted a RKE system. Well now with my second harness that i have bought it is still doing the same thing. I hit my windows and when i go up they go down and when i go down they go up, my locks do not work with the button either, i hear the module clicking but nothing. Also the unlock button makes the parking lights come on as long as you hold the button. Any help would be greatly appreciated
I used a harness that already had rke but I do know the wiring in the doors is different between a truck with and without factory rke. I luckily tackled the job with a full 96 electrical troubleshoot manual.
I used a harness that already had rke but I do know the wiring in the doors is different between a truck with and without factory rke. I luckily tackled the job with a full 96 electrical troubleshoot manual.
i have replaced the harness twice now, both doors are factory RKE harnesses along with the floor. Where did you locate your manual?
That’s weird. I swapped my truck from an obd2 96 to a obd1 95 and in the process I found the truck had factory rke. I ended up swapping every single harness under the hood and inside the cab and I had no problems. But before I swapped the power window/lock/mirror harness I checked and it had the ground and 12v reversed I believe. I borrowed the book from a friend but you can find them on eBay
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